I'm starting my project.

[devildog92]

Well, I am starting my project in the next two weeks, and have all the $$ allocated and everything. I have been looking around for some time at L's as an everyday truck, but just haven't seen anything that lit my fire (as in a True Blue trk), so I am going to have my ole' '94 painted True Blue and have a stroker thrown in for good measure. I am going to get a vette in the next month or so, too, so it will be a VERY interesting Christmas for sure. Here is the goodie list...

*FRPP 392 stroker, # M-6007-D392RT (this replaced A392E supposedly)
*Edelbrock Performer RPM Trk intake
*36lb injectors
*m-6375-j302 steel flywheel
*m-9430-t58 FRPP shorties
*Be Cool radiator
*2800 stall converter (I am unsure with brand at this point)
*Edelbrock T/b/EGR combo
*Accel wires
*FRPP M-6582-a351r valve covers

This thing should be a BEAST. Might make me rethink the vette, especially since this is a forged setup (ie-blower friendly). Can you imagine with a s-trim??? This is already rated 430 flywheel hp BEFORE forced induction. This should be fun.

Any suggestions for this project? :banana:

[devildog92]

I forgot, I am also putting a Flowmaster dual American Thunder exhaust system on the truck. They were the only ones that produced a long-bed cat back, that had dual exit out the back. If anyone knows of another retailer with better quality, let me know.

[PoorSvtman]

I forgot, I am also putting a Flowmaster dual American Thunder exhaust system on the truck. They were the only ones that produced a long-bed cat back, that had dual exit out the back. If anyone knows of another retailer with better quality, let me know.

get a custom exhaust made up... probly cheaper.

[Sixpipes]

I didn't see any cam info. :cool:

[devildog92]

I didn't see any cam info. :cool:

I new someone might catch this the minute I made the post...

The specs from the FRPP website:

Ford Racing high performance hydraulic roller lifter camshaft provides significant horsepower increases above 4000 RPM and good mid-range torque. Valve lift is .566" intake and .576" exhaust. Duration at .050" is 232 degrees intake and 240 degrees exhaust

Anyone think of any better? I had also thought about getting just the short block, and getting a set of AFR's instead of the GT-40X's. To put it all together may be more work and take more knowledge than I have though, thats why I went the crate route :-)

[Sixpipes]

If the crate motor is rated at 430 hp, I assume the compression is going to be around 10:1 or so. If that is the case, the motor is not going to like forced induction. Usually, when folks put together a motor to be used with a blower or turbo, the maximum compression you would want would be maybe something like 9:1 (I think the Gen II motor is 8:1 and the Gen I is 8.8:1). Any compression information available? Normally aspirated at 430 hp would be pretty cool though. :cool:

[WA 2 FST]

Dennis is correct, Dan. You need to decide _now_ whether you want a forced induction application or not...before you start spending lots of $$ on engine parts. Now you could run a high CR N/A motor and throw a shot of nitrous on top of that, and be safe. But a blower or turbo will require lower CR. I would stick to something ~8.75-9.0:1 max. Aluminum heads certainly will help.

AFR heads are significantly better than the GT-40X heads. There is no comparison. However, in the long run, it might be cheaper to buy the FRPP 392 block, sell the GT-40X heads new and just install some AFRs in their place. That cam is a good grind.

I didn't see anything listed there for tuning the thing once its put together. You will need to tune the engine and recalibrate the transmission for maximum performance.

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Dennis is correct, Dan. You need to decide _now_ whether you want a forced induction application or not...before you start spending lots of $$ on engine parts. Now you could run a high CR N/A motor and throw a shot of nitrous on top of that, and be safe. But a blower or turbo will require lower CR. I would stick to something ~8.75-9.0:1 max. Aluminum heads certainly will help.

AFR heads are significantly better than the GT-40X heads. There is no comparison. However, in the long run, it might be cheaper to buy the FRPP 392 block, sell the GT-40X heads new and just install some AFRs in their place. That cam is a good grind.

I didn't see anything listed there for tuning the thing once its put together. You will need to tune the engine and recalibrate the transmission for maximum performance.

If you do decide to go with the 10:1 and no forced induction. NOS should be frieldly right?. Give it a 150 shot. Oh yeah and Im sure you thought of this but go with a nice stainless ARP engine bolt kit.

[WA 2 FST]

Yep. Nitrous is fine with high CR. Retard the timing under activation, run some colder plugs, and make sure there is ample fuel supply... and it will be great. :)

[T Hogg]

Do you already have a way to tune the truck? If not, you might want to look into that. With those cam specs and 36#ers, I think you should start looking into a Mass Kit.IMO Also, you can get a nice radiator at NAPA that will cool just as good as the Be Cool for half the $$. Thats what I use w/ no cooling problems.
With 400+hp the fuel system is going to need some love too. You have a great start, just need a few more supporting parts.