Need Body / Paint opinions

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Ok, some of you know im working on my 69 torino. I have the tranny and motor done and I just started body work. This is a huge task and it is my first time. That is one of the reasons why I chose a torino to do this too not a mustang.

If have read everything possible on body work and paint DIY and am confident about doing the body work myself but unsure if I can find a place to paint it that will agree upon my body work. Alot of shops say no way because the prep is so critical in the final finish and they wont be able to warranty their work.

I need to find a body shop that will work with me and give me advice on weather the body is paint ready or not...In fact this has all been such a headache I thought about painting the vehicle myself, I understand HVLP prepping, flash times, catalyst, and reducers but still need some help, opinions and advice.

Anybody here have expertise with body work and paint??

[99WhiteBeast]

Maybe Jacob (jcblack) or Kenny (Showtime) will chime in here- both have knowledge on the subject

[PoorSvtman]

just do most of the body work. get it straight and let the body shop do the finaly prepping/primer/paint.


my buddy and i shaved his tailgate handle, and 3rd braked light on his ranger. its pretty much perfect. The place we hes taking it to get painted after we shave the doors told us to just get it as good as we can get and he will do the final touches before starting the paint process. we have used this place before and they do good work

[jcblack]

Ok, some of you know im working on my 69 torino. I have the tranny and motor done and I just started body work. This is a huge task and it is my first time. That is one of the reasons why I chose a torino to do this too not a mustang.

If have read everything possible on body work and paint DIY and am confident about doing the body work myself but unsure if I can find a place to paint it that will agree upon my body work. Alot of shops say no way because the prep is so critical in the final finish and they wont be able to warranty their work.

I need to find a body shop that will work with me and give me advice on weather the body is paint ready or not...In fact this has all been such a headache I thought about painting the vehicle myself, I understand HVLP prepping, flash times, catalyst, and reducers but still need some help, opinions and advice.

Anybody here have expertise with body work and paint??

Most real body shops wont paint it if the body work was previously done. Prep work is the most important part. Painting is the easy part. It is a pain in the ass if you have to fix something after you have already laid down paint on it. My advice is to just give it to a shop and let them do it all. It will be expensive, but it won't peel off when a rock hits it. My two cents.:tu:

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Thanks for your replies. And Jacob I agree w/ you 100% But the main reason for this build is to learn and to have a car completely built with my 2 hands. Not to mention im broke so a full body work and paint from a shop is out of the question. Mike, I think going your route is the safest / best bet. I still dont know about doing the painting myself or not. I might give it a shot after some practice on something else (my lightning's hood....j/k).

Now I guess my question is, should I go with an epoxy primer since im not going to bare metal....or should I go to bare metal. Should I go with a rattle can primer or professional primer sprayed from a HVLP? I didn't think going to bare metal was necessary simply because, god only know how much paint / filler is under it all, and its not rusted but straight. I would have a harder time getting it straight from bare metal.

[jcblack]

Thanks for your replies. And Jacob I agree w/ you 100% But the main reason for this build is to learn and to have a car completely built with my 2 hands. Not to mention im broke so a full body work and paint from a shop is out of the question. Mike, I think going your route is the safest / best bet. I still dont know about doing the painting myself or not. I might give it a shot after some practice on something else (my lightning's hood....j/k).

Now I guess my question is, should I go with an epoxy primer since im not going to bare metal....or should I go to bare metal. Should I go with a rattle can primer or professional primer sprayed from a HVLP? I didn't think going to bare metal was necessary simply because, god only know how much paint / filler is under it all, and its not rusted but straight. I would have a harder time getting it straight from bare metal.

I think that it would be cool to completly rebuild a car with my own two hands, but when it comes to the body, ...let the painters paint. It is not something that is learned overnight. I know that you have to start somewhere, but repainting a car for a first tryout is kinda risky. But its your car. So to answer your question, I dont think that you should take it down to the bare metal. You dont seemed that worried about the final outcome, so leave it be. Spray paint is out of the question. It is a lacquer based paint and can simply wipe off with thinner. Plus it's ghetto. Dupont makes a great primer called Uro Primer. It is an epoxy primer that is really easy to spray and sand. It is a filler primer, so it can also help hide some of the hi and low spots that you might have. I dont know if you have ever used a sanding block, but I suggest that you get one. It will make the outcome a million times better. I don't know what kind of gun that you bought, but Sata makes a badass HVLP gun (NR 2000). I have one, and it sprays some awesome paint. It is really pricey, but if you plan to spray again, it is worth it. I also suggest that you use one gun for prime and one for base coat and clear coat. Are you going with base coat/clear coat or single stage? Hope that this helps you out. Good Luck.:tu:

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

I think that it would be cool to completly rebuild a car with my own two hands, but when it comes to the body, ...let the painters paint. It is not something that is learned overnight. I know that you have to start somewhere, but repainting a car for a first tryout is kinda risky. But its your car. So to answer your question, I dont think that you should take it down to the bare metal. You dont seemed that worried about the final outcome, so leave it be. Spray paint is out of the question. It is a lacquer based paint and can simply wipe off with thinner. Plus it's ghetto. Dupont makes a great primer called Uro Primer. It is an epoxy primer that is really easy to spray and sand. It is a filler primer, so it can also help hide some of the hi and low spots that you might have. I dont know if you have ever used a sanding block, but I suggest that you get one. It will make the outcome a million times better. I don't know what kind of gun that you bought, but Sata makes a badass HVLP gun (NR 2000). I have one, and it sprays some awesome paint. It is really pricey, but if you plan to spray again, it is worth it. I also suggest that you use one gun for prime and one for base coat and clear coat. Are you going with base coat/clear coat or single stage? Hope that this helps you out. Good Luck.:tu:

Yeah this helps alot. I have done nothing for the last month or two but read into body work, tips and tecnique. Also granted Its not going to be a show car, I still have a few dollars into the cart that could have gone to the lightning...So I am a little worried about the outcome of the paint. I want a durable, straight paint job, not a show car and plan on the next 3 months or so just prepping the body.

Also, I have looked into base/clear systems from house of kolor, and Valspar, and have tech sheets for all of them. And I planned on spending a couple hundred on a gun. Now I guess for primer. I have a nice long sanding block already, and plenty of dollies, body hammers, and premium body filler and glaze...yada yada. When it comes down to it...after I pay for all the supplies including paint, cleaners, catalyst, lint free tacks and the whole bit, If I F-up I've wasted alot of money.

SO.. I guess I should start looking into a painter....Mike always talked about the Chevrolet shop he had his truck fixed and painted at..Mike....Will they do an old car?

[jcblack]

Yeah this helps alot. I have done nothing for the last month or two but read into body work, tips and tecnique. Also granted Its not going to be a show car, I still have a few dollars into the cart that could have gone to the lightning...So I am a little worried about the outcome of the paint. I want a durable, straight paint job, not a show car and plan on the next 3 months or so just prepping the body.

Also, I have looked into base/clear systems from house of kolor, and Valspar, and have tech sheets for all of them. And I planned on spending a couple hundred on a gun. Now I guess for primer. I have a nice long sanding block already, and plenty of dollies, body hammers, and premium body filler and glaze...yada yada. When it comes down to it...after I pay for all the supplies including paint, cleaners, catalyst, lint free tacks and the whole bit, If I F-up I've wasted alot of money.

SO.. I guess I should start looking into a painter....Mike always talked about the Chevrolet shop he had his truck fixed and painted at..Mike....Will they do an old car?

House of Kolor is bar none one of the best paints out there. For something that you want, go with PPG. Places like Finish Master have tons of paint codes, and they can match colors. I personally like PPG and that is what I would use. But you did bring up a good point that I forgot to mention. Supplies = $$$$$$. When you price out the supplies individually, it is outrageous. That is why I haven't really gotten into doing stuff on the side. Shops already have a stock of activators, hardners, paints, clear, degreasers, and accelorators. You would have to buy all that plus tape, masking paper, sand paper, mixing cups, stir sticks, strainers, etc. I think that you are starting to see the light:tu:

[Nick Tosie]

I always do my own prep work and have one of my painters where I work tape it off and spray it. Hes confident with my prep so its never a problem. I could probably shoot it too but I dont work in the body shop so Id just assume let him do that end, we have nice down draft thermoking booths. Ive always used PPG or Dupont, been having good luck with Dupont recently. If the car has a ton of paint, rust, bondo take it all the way down. Otherwise just wet sand, do your body work, use uphol primer in the blue can to cover any bare metal or filler, resand those areas and shoot with a sealer then paint. Thats how I do most of my stuff but most already has a halfway decent paint job. On older stuff I go all the way down and work my way back up.
Just my 2 cents

Nick

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

I always do my own prep work and have one of my painters where I work tape it off and spray it. Hes confident with my prep so its never a problem. I could probably shoot it too but I dont work in the body shop so Id just assume let him do that end, we have nice down draft thermoking booths. Ive always used PPG or Dupont, been having good luck with Dupont recently. If the car has a ton of paint, rust, bondo take it all the way down. Otherwise just wet sand, do your body work, use uphol primer in the blue can to cover any bare metal or filler, resand those areas and shoot with a sealer then paint. Thats how I do most of my stuff but most already has a halfway decent paint job. On older stuff I go all the way down and work my way back up.
Just my 2 cents

Nick


Thanks Nick :tu: Im scared to go all the way down to the metal, god only know what I'll find...Yet without any question the right way to do this work is to go to bare metal. The car has been worked before and there is bonda and little rust on the car. I have also found Lead fill on the car, and this poses a problem...I dont know how to work w/ lead. The noticable rust we have removed and replaced with new steel. Other that that I've left the car alone as alot of it is already straight. So even as straight as the car car, removing the rust, fixing the spots I should go to bare metal, even with spots of lead fill?? Being that im buiding me a fun driver not a show car, Is it a necessity to go to bare metal?