New to the game.

[bAdsVt]

Hi.
My name is Doug. I am about to leave for the Marines(soon). When I get back I plain on selling my stang and getting a Lightning.:cool: Im not new to the whole going fast game, just using a Lightning to do so. What I would like to know is:
1.What are good mods for Lightnings(please go into a little detail)?
2.What is needed to lower a Lightning?
3.Stall converters..Good or bad?
4.How weak are the 5.4's rod's?
5.What do'es DSG meen?


God bless.

[keynan]

Welcome where abouts are you going?
The rod's can take some abuse, you can to a 6# (crank pulley) and a good tune some Ngk Tr6's and be safe. Talk to terry at performance research he is the MAN! knana 972-298-0108 knana
DSG means Dark shadow gray
everyoney has their own when it comes to good mods, If you want to go all out put a kenne bell on that b*tch, or do a lower pulley, upper pulley, tune, plugs, port the blower there are a lot of mods you can do.
What kind of stang do you have?

[bAdsVt]

Welcome where abouts are you going?
The rod's can take some abuse, you can to a 6# (crank pulley) and a good tune some Ngk Tr6's and be safe. Talk to terry at performance research he is the MAN! knana 972-298-0108 knana
DSG means Dark shadow gray
everyoney has their own when it comes to good mods, If you want to go all out put a kenne bell on that b*tch, or do a lower pulley, upper pulley, tune, plugs, port the blower there are a lot of mods you can do.
What kind of stang do you have?

Im going to San Diego for boot camp :eek:!! I have a 93 306 conversion. H/C/I, c4, 8.8 with 4.10s. It runs 7.5Xs in the 1/8. Could the stock rod's hold up to a kenne bell? How much hp would I be putting to the ground? And what is this 4x4 pan I keep hearing about..??:confused:

Thanks

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

The Ford 4x4 trans pan allows for an additional quart of trans fluid (thus increasing cooling capabilities to a point) and also has a drain plug. The stock pan has no drain plug provision.

It's an easy install and is a direct replacement part straight from Ford.

[WA 2 FST]

It's my opinion (based on research, I have not done it) that ~450rwhp is the limit for the stock trans. Beyond 500rwhp, I would start saving pretty quickly in case you throw a rod. But when you consider most of these trucks are b/w 330-350rwhp stock... being able to throw another 100-150rwhp at them before you have to upgrade drivetrain parts is pretty impressive, I think...especially given the weight you're trying to push.

I just have a 4# lower pulley, an intake/filter kit, a cat-back exhaust (which I don't think adds any HP), and an aftermarket heat exchanger (more cooling capacity for the intercooler). Before doing any other power mods, I would install a KB, set it up conservatively and it would easily make 450rwhp. It's a more efficient blower than a ported Eaton. Cooler air charge temps = more safety even at the _same_ HP level. You can certainly achieve 450rwhp without getting a KB or Whipple, and you can probably do it cheaper than getting the aftermarket supercharger. But its more than just "making the number", IMHO.

That being said, I'm perfectly happy with my high-12 second truck the way it is. ;)

[bAdsVt]

I thought the trans could hold a lot of power... Like around 600hp. I would want the truck to run mid 11's. Can you get long tubes or just shorty's due to clearance issues? Are high stall converters a good idea?

Thanks

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

600hp at the rear wheels? Not for long under continued abuse/downshifting. That's really one of the toughest things on the trans... downshifting when you then see high rpms right as the truck downshifts.

Higher stall converters are _very_ effective at cutting ETs (my truck would probably pick up .3+ in ET with that mod alone), but without slicks or a cheater slick, it will just bring about lots of wheelspin...which is a problem with these trucks with the _stock_ converter. But if you want it in the mid-11s, you'll have to get a good converter. You can still maintain good street manners and drastically improve performance with a 2400-2600rpm converter. The blown 5.4 doesn't need a lot of converter to get it right in the engine's sweet spot off the line.

You can get long tubes for these trucks... no problem there.

[Avalanche]

If you want you are more than welcome to come over and look at what I have done to mine. You are in the same area as me.


You can call me at 214-417-4344.

Brent

[bAdsVt]

If you want you are more than welcome to come over and look at what I have done to mine. You are in the same area as me.


You can call me at 214-417-4344.

Brent

Do you ever go to the DFWstangs meets? We are having a new one In Garland. The Sonic by Wal Mart off of George Bush and North Garland Road. You should come out... What does your truck Run?

Thanks for all your help.

God bless.

[Avalanche]

Do you ever go to the DFWstangs meets? We are having a new one In Garland. The Sonic by Wal Mart off of George Bush and North Garland Road. You should come out... What does your truck Run?

Thanks for all your help.

God bless.

My truck is the slowest one in the club:tu: . I live on the south side I don't make it to the north side much but I might I could always use a good sonic burger and a setup of chesse tater tots.

When is your meetings? How about you call me when the next meeting is and I will see if I can make it.

Brent

[bAdsVt]

My truck is the slowest one in the club:tu: . I live on the south side I don't make it to the north side much but I might I could always use a good sonic burger and a setup of chesse tater tots.

When is your meetings? How about you call me when the next meeting is and I will see if I can make it.

Brent

No problem! We are having one this tuesday. South side of Garland, huh? When I lived on South side I carried around a gun.. But I lived in the bad part. It's turning into the Grove around there..

God bless.

[Avalanche]

No problem! We are having one this tuesday. South side of Garland, huh? When I lived on South side I carried around a gun.. But I lived in the bad part. It's turning into the Grove around there..

God bless.

What time on Tuesday? I will have to check to se if I can make it.

[bAdsVt]

What time on Tuesday? I will have to check to se if I can make it.

Around 8pm. Until whenever. This is the first one at that location. So we need all we can get.:D

God bless.

[Mark #2]

600hp at the rear wheels? But if you want it in the mid-11s, you'll have to get a good converter.

Stock block, stock converter, 3.55 gears here. 11.5 sec 1/4s :D
You think that a converter would be .3 seconds for me?

[bAdsVt]

Stock block, stock converter, 3.55 gears here. 11.5 sec 1/4s :D
You think that a converter would be .3 seconds for me?

What do you have done?

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

Stock block, stock converter, 3.55 gears here. 11.5 sec 1/4s :D
You think that a converter would be .3 seconds for me?

Stock trans, too? There's been plenty of discussion as far as how long that block will hold up. ;) But you must have the Energizer bunny living under there b/c you've had a great run with that combo.

Anyway, what do you think the converter would be worth for your truck?

If it is less than .15 in your application, I'd be shocked.

For my truck in its current config, it would be worth .3 easily. 109mph (my truck) should = 12.3-12.4 with a decent launch, and a converter would be a big part of that. Do I want to live with it daily on the street? No, its not worth it in my case. :)

[Mark #2]

Stock trans, too? There's been plenty of discussion as far as how long that block will hold up. ;) But you must have the Energizer bunny living under there b/c you've had a great run with that combo.

Anyway, what do you think the converter would be worth for your truck?

If it is less than .15 in your application, I'd be shocked.

For my truck in its current config, it would be worth .3 easily. 109mph (my truck) should = 12.3-12.4 with a decent launch, and a converter would be a big part of that. Do I want to live with it daily on the street? No, its not worth it in my case. :)

Yup, stock block, stock trans with FTVB.
I think that the key to it living has been the 11.3 A/F ratio.
I have been under the impression that .2 was probable.

In response to what has been done:
2000 CUX2
SCT MAF (CAI)
60 lb Motoron injectors
255lph fuel pumps
KB blower (9“ lower pulley, 3.25" Upper Street, 3.0” upper track) ~16 lbs boost
NGK TR6 IX spark plugs
Longtube headers/High flow cats/Silver bullet catback
Factory Tech valve body in the transmission
3.55 gears
Stock converter
Stock engine internals

Misc.
Nav water pump
Electric fan
Roush suspension
Hotchkis sway bars
Metco track links
Driveshaft loop
4x4 transmission pan
Linelock
Etc

[Tex Arcana]

Stock trans, too? There's been plenty of discussion as far as how long that block will hold up. ;) But you must have the Energizer bunny living under there b/c you've had a great run with that combo.

Anyway, what do you think the converter would be worth for your truck?

If it is less than .15 in your application, I'd be shocked.

For my truck in its current config, it would be worth .3 easily. 109mph (my truck) should = 12.3-12.4 with a decent launch, and a converter would be a big part of that. Do I want to live with it daily on the street? No, its not worth it in my case. :)

So explain what the issues of having a high-stall convertor in a street truck are?? :confused:

[Tex Arcana]

I thought the trans could hold a lot of power... Like around 600hp. I would want the truck to run mid 11's. Can you get long tubes or just shorty's due to clearance issues? Are high stall converters a good idea?

Thanks

God bless.

The trans is rated officially at 1000 ft-lbs torque, and that's from Ford. Take into account the torque multiplication in the torque convertor (and it's torque that's the important item in the trans), with a STOCK motor we're pushing 900 ft-lbs thru it, and that's for those motors that are putting out EXACTLY what Ford states. Given that Ford typically understates their power figures, you can assume that actual crank output is higher than official.

Example: when I dyno'd my truck in 2004, with just a cat-back, I put down 365rwhp/418rwtq, which translates to 445chp/509ctq (assuming an 18% driveline loss--guys, feel free to correct me on this one, the SVTOA guys were saying that loss percentage was right from Ford's mouth).

That's alot of power at the crank, and if you double that torque output, it's already passing that 1000 ft-lb rating. :eek2:

So, yeah, the tranny can be a weak link, if you decide to NOT help it out. Wes's idea about reliability is excellent, because burning your fluid is the first step towards killing your trans. The next step is improving your shifting, either thru an ECU flash (like I did), or getting an FTVB. There are other ideas as well, but beyond them you're building a new trans and beefing it up.

One place that I found very informative when I got into this game is Tim Skelton's website. (http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/index.htm) I like his approach to things, and the way he's documented all of his mods and how they worked for him.

Of course, YMMV, as usual. :tu:

Good luck, and welcome to the Marine family.

[WA 2 FST]

So explain what the issues of having a high-stall convertor in a street truck are?? :confused:

My reasoning is simple... even with a drag radial, there is no way to plant the tires with a higher than stock stall on the street. I have to be careful taking off too aggressively from a standstill now... with a 2400rpm stall (vs. the stock 1500+ stall) the tires would just spin.

I'll just assume you understand what a torque converter does and how stall speed affects torque multiplication and (to a degree) how the engine responds.

Fortunately for our trucks, with as much mid-range TQ as they make, we don't really need a super high converter speed. I'm betting even the guys running 10s, don't run stall speeds above 3000. But to get the revs into the "sweet spot" quicker off the line, you'll see drag cars run high stall speeds. This is, in effect, a lot like taking the revs to 5500-6000rpm or so and dumping the clutch in a stick trans car (although the auto is even better, IMHO, once you start running something that is 10-sec capable...at least for street cars, notwithstanding the pro-shifted Liberty and Lenco trannies in something like a Pro-Stock car).

Anyway, a really high stall speed only puts more stress/heat buildup in the trans itself. Ever drive a vehicle with a 4000rpm stall? Unless you're racing, it pretty much sucks. Plus, you absolutely have to address trans temp issues by installing one or more larger capacity trans coolers/fans. Gas mileage gets even worse, etc.

I could go on.

My personal reasoning has less to do with the potential problems of a higher stall (which again, isn't very high for these trucks, so a lot of those "problems" I mentioned will not really apply to us in this application) and more to do with it being impractical for my type of driving.

[bAdsVt]

How much would it cost me to get my Lightning in the mid 11's? And I want reliability.

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1310

You may have already seen the TALON 1/4 mile slips and stats, but the link above will tell you a lot. There are only 5-6 trucks here in the 11s or better. All their mods are listed. :)

[bAdsVt]

http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1310

You may have already seen the TALON 1/4 mile slips and stats, but the link above will tell you a lot. There are only 5-6 trucks here in the 11s or better. All their mods are listed. :)

Thanks buddy.. How in the hell can you take wieght off of a truck..:confused:

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

I can't answer that one. ;) My truck is full weight. Actually, I take that back... I removed the trailer hitch. I don't tow with my truck, but if I ever need to I could just reinstall the hitch. It's just a few bolts to the frame.

[Tex Arcana]

My reasoning is simple... even with a drag radial, there is no way to plant the tires with a higher than stock stall on the street. I have to be careful taking off too aggressively from a standstill now... with a 2400rpm stall (vs. the stock 1500+ stall) the tires would just spin.

I'll just assume you understand what a torque converter does and how stall speed affects torque multiplication and (to a degree) how the engine responds.

Fortunately for our trucks, with as much mid-range TQ as they make, we don't really need a super high converter speed. I'm betting even the guys running 10s, don't run stall speeds above 3000. But to get the revs into the "sweet spot" quicker off the line, you'll see drag cars run high stall speeds. This is, in effect, a lot like taking the revs to 5500-6000rpm or so and dumping the clutch in a stick trans car (although the auto is even better, IMHO, once you start running something that is 10-sec capable...at least for street cars, notwithstanding the pro-shifted Liberty and Lenco trannies in something like a Pro-Stock car).

Anyway, a really high stall speed only puts more stress/heat buildup in the trans itself. Ever drive a vehicle with a 4000rpm stall? Unless you're racing, it pretty much sucks. Plus, you absolutely have to address trans temp issues by installing one or more larger capacity trans coolers/fans. Gas mileage gets even worse, etc.

I could go on.

My personal reasoning has less to do with the potential problems of a higher stall (which again, isn't very high for these trucks, so a lot of those "problems" I mentioned will not really apply to us in this application) and more to do with it being impractical for my type of driving.


I understand how TCs work, but I've always been a bit unclear on what "stall speed" is. And, no, I've never driven a car with a high-stall convertor, so I have no idea how it affects lower-RPM operation--this is why I asked this in the first place!! :hammer: :tongue:

I have the same problem as you: too easy to light 'em up. I played with a 'vette the other nite, and a quarter-throttle lauch lit me up so much that I couldn't go anywhere. :( Speaking of #2: what traction bars do you use?

[Mark #2]

http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1310

You may have already seen the TALON 1/4 mile slips and stats, but the link above will tell you a lot. There are only 5-6 trucks here in the 11s or better. All their mods are listed. :)

Also note that there are only 3 with stock blocks in the 11s(1 had N2O).

[Avalanche]

Thanks buddy.. How in the hell can you take wieght off of a truck..:confused:

God bless.


You can start by removing everything you don't need and then you will start spending money.

Getting a new front end a fiberglass setup will do nicely and remove about 1k lbs. Then you can look at the frame. If you have ever seen a L's frame you will understand what I am saying. To get a really good weight reduction you would nedd a tube chasis perferably a chrome molly, titanium alloy with stainless steel underlay. (sorry engineer) This is what I have in the works and it is not cheap but it will save me about 2K libs. So to finish it off when I get done in about a centery, I should in theory go from 4850 lbs to about 2850 lbs but it will not be streetable at that point.

Like I said I would be more than happy to show you what I have done and the little things in the garage for my buildup. That is if you want to come to the south side and don't forget your gun.:rll:

Brent

[WA 2 FST]

I understand how TCs work, but I've always been a bit unclear on what "stall speed" is. And, no, I've never driven a car with a high-stall convertor, so I have no idea how it affects lower-RPM operation--this is why I asked this in the first place!! :hammer: :tongue:

I have the same problem as you: too easy to light 'em up. I played with a 'vette the other nite, and a quarter-throttle lauch lit me up so much that I couldn't go anywhere. :( Speaking of #2: what traction bars do you use?

I don't use traction bars, so I can't comment on those. I run Nitto DRs full time on my truck and they help a lot on the street.

Stall speed, in essence, is what the engine rpm "flashes" to if you're sitting there at idle and hammer the throttle. With a loose or higher stall speed converter, the rpms are allowed to go higher before the converter starts to act as more of a 1:1 direct-drive unit. On a tighter or lower speed converter, the rpms do not climb as high.

Some people say you can stand on the footbrake and test a converter's stall speed, but I do not agree with this. You can get an idea, but it is not that accurate to do it that way.

But picture yourself at a light at 800rpm and then you stand on the throttle hard. If the converter in a given application will stall at 2400rpm, then the revs will climb to that point and then the truck launches. With a 1600rpm converter, the revs only go to 1600rpm before "launch". Now, below the stall speed the vehicle will still move in drive. But it isn't nearly as direct of an engagement of power as when you're above the stall speed. So if you have a high stall speed converter and you're putzing around at low engine speeds, its almost like a rubber-band feeling as far as throttle-to-drive engagement. It's almost like its not fully engaging in gear. This issue is exacerbated with higher stall speeds. In our trucks, a 2400rpm stall will probably only give you some weak throttle input feeling when you're in OD cruising on the highway, when the rpms are _below_ the converter stall speed. So there's a trade-off somewhere, but in our trucks, it would be minimal I would imagine. I just don't need anymore launching power than I have now with what I'm trying to accomplish.

[WA 2 FST]

Also note that there are only 3 with stock blocks in the 11s(1 had N2O).

Mark,

What's your lastest HP/TQ dyno readings?

[WA 2 FST]

That is if you want to come to the south side and don't forget your gun.:rll:

Brent

Brent, I don't know where you live in S. Garland, and I don't need to know... but I have a lot of rent property in one area over there (S. of I-30 off of Beltline... almost in Mesquite/Sunnyvale) and I don't have any issues over there. I'm not saying its the most ritzy neighborhood, and that there aren't bad parts of Garland, but I haven't started carrying a gun to show a vacant rent house yet. :D

[Tex Arcana]

How much would it cost me to get my Lightning in the mid 11's? And I want reliability.

God bless.

http://www.weedplane.com/rockets/jato.jpg :d

[WA 2 FST]

I bet nitrous is safer. :d

[Avalanche]

I'm not saying its the most ritzy neighborhood, and that there aren't bad parts of Garland, but I haven't started carrying a gun to show a vacant rent house yet. :D

Wes,
It is a joke becuse three years ago or so the south side started looking like oak cliff and Pleasent Grove. It is not that bad but my wife did get here car shot at about three weeks ago by some kids with a B-B gun, and she was driving. The cops said that it was a high powered one because it almost went through the metal. one stuck in the metal. It was a good thing that I was not with here becuse I have 3 extra clips and one in engaged at all times.

[Avalanche]

I bet nitrous is safer. :d


But not funner:rll:

[Mark #2]

Mark,

What's your lastest HP/TQ dyno readings?

I don't have any recent ones on the tune I have now. I have gone to a wideband and have been tuning off of the data logs rather than going to the dyno. On the last really rich tune off the scale below 10/1 A/F, I was at 500/600ish, now at 11.3/1 and guessing maybe 50hp/50tq more?

If you plug my numbers into all the various 1/4 mile times, HP, weight, estimate charts you get around 650 HP I think, haven't done it in a while though, maybe I'll post later if I get a chance to do it.
I have to go attend to the DLP manufacturing line, talk later.
Mark

[Tex Arcana]

I don't use traction bars, so I can't comment on those. I run Nitto DRs full time on my truck and they help a lot on the street.

Stall speed, in essence, is what the engine rpm "flashes" to if you're sitting there at idle and hammer the throttle. With a loose or higher stall speed converter, the rpms are allowed to go higher before the converter starts to act as more of a 1:1 direct-drive unit. On a tighter or lower speed converter, the rpms do not climb as high.

Some people say you can stand on the footbrake and test a converter's stall speed, but I do not agree with this. You can get an idea, but it is not that accurate to do it that way.

But picture yourself at a light at 800rpm and then you stand on the throttle hard. If the converter in a given application will stall at 2400rpm, then the revs will climb to that point and then the truck launches. With a 1600rpm converter, the revs only go to 1600rpm before "launch". Now, below the stall speed the vehicle will still move in drive. But it isn't nearly as direct of an engagement of power as when you're above the stall speed. So if you have a high stall speed converter and you're putzing around at low engine speeds, its almost like a rubber-band feeling as far as throttle-to-drive engagement. It's almost like its not fully engaging in gear. This issue is exacerbated with higher stall speeds. In our trucks, a 2400rpm stall will probably only give you some weak throttle input feeling when you're in OD cruising on the highway, when the rpms are _below_ the converter stall speed. So there's a trade-off somewhere, but in our trucks, it would be minimal I would imagine. I just don't need anymore launching power than I have now with what I'm trying to accomplish.


That's what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. The word "stall" doesn't convey the idea very well, tho, so that keeps confusing me.

In essence, a convertor can be designed to transfer poewr at or above a specific RPM (I assume this doesn't take into account the actions of the lockup clutch), so it will deliver power from the engine's powerband. And, like you said, this affects streetable drivablilty.

Thanks, man!

[Tex Arcana]

I don't have any recent ones on the tune I have now. I have gone to a wideband and have been tuning off of the data logs rather than going to the dyno. On the last really rich tune off the scale below 10/1 A/F, I was at 500/600ish, now at 11.3/1 and guessing maybe 50hp/50tq more?

If you plug my numbers into all the various 1/4 mile times, HP, weight, estimate charts you get around 650 HP I think, haven't done it in a while though, maybe I'll post later if I get a chance to do it.
I have to go attend to the DLP manufacturing line, talk later.
Mark

Is there any engine management unit that actually USES inputs from a wideband? Or is it all just bells'n'whistles??

[bAdsVt]

You can start by removing everything you don't need and then you will start spending money.

Getting a new front end a fiberglass setup will do nicely and remove about 1k lbs. Then you can look at the frame. If you have ever seen a L's frame you will understand what I am saying. To get a really good weight reduction you would nedd a tube chasis perferably a chrome molly, titanium alloy with stainless steel underlay. (sorry engineer) This is what I have in the works and it is not cheap but it will save me about 2K libs. So to finish it off when I get done in about a centery, I should in theory go from 4850 lbs to about 2850 lbs but it will not be streetable at that point.

Like I said I would be more than happy to show you what I have done and the little things in the garage for my buildup. That is if you want to come to the south side and don't forget your gun.:rll:

Brent


LOL, I think your sarcastic meters a little off..:tongue: That would be cool. I dont even think I have sat in a gen 2 Lightning.

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

Is there any engine management unit that actually USES inputs from a wideband? Or is it all just bells'n'whistles??

Yes, there are some. The problem is that I don't believe they are OBD-2 legal. This may or may not cause a problem during inspection time. I don't know exactly how they interface with the stock computer.

But I know that some of the stand-alone ones can literally tune the car during a run/pass at the track within a certain threshold. You set the target A/F ratio and it will hit it, so long as you have the fueling capacity (injectors and pumps) to keep up with the demand.

[Avalanche]

LOL, I think your sarcastic meters a little off..:tongue: That would be cool. I dont even think I have sat in a gen 2 Lightning.

God bless.

I was not trying to be sarcastic but I guess it could be construde as funny. If you want I can give you a ride in the slowest L in Talon.:rll:

[Mark #2]

I don't have any recent ones on the tune I have now. I have gone to a wideband and have been tuning off of the data logs rather than going to the dyno. On the last really rich tune off the scale below 10/1 A/F, I was at 500/600ish, now at 11.3/1 and guessing maybe 50hp/50tq more?

If you plug my numbers into all the various 1/4 mile times, HP, weight, estimate charts you get around 650 HP I think, haven't done it in a while though, maybe I'll post later if I get a chance to do it.
I have to go attend to the DLP manufacturing line, talk later.
Mark

http://www.stealth316.com/2-calc-hp-et-mph.htm
Nice link for calculations for the nerds.
Fox numbers are the closest to mine in IMHO.

Plug in 11.59 seconds(known), 119 MPH(known), and 4500(known)lbs to see the HP and see what you get, do you believe?

[Tex Arcana]

Yes, there are some. The problem is that I don't believe they are OBD-2 legal. This may or may not cause a problem during inspection time. I don't know exactly how they interface with the stock computer.

But I know that some of the stand-alone ones can literally tune the car during a run/pass at the track within a certain threshold. You set the target A/F ratio and it will hit it, so long as you have the fueling capacity (injectors and pumps) to keep up with the demand.

Are you talking a meter telling you what you need, and you using a tuner to make the alterations; or a add-on unit that makes the program alterations based on what it gets from the wideband, and does it all without your intervention?

[Mark #2]

Are you talking a meter telling you what you need, and you using a tuner to make the alterations; or a add-on unit that makes the program alterations based on what it gets from the wideband, and does it all without your intervention?

Meter telling, me telling the tuner.

[Tex Arcana]

Meter telling, me telling the tuner.

:vomit: frustrating: you'd think they'd come up with something that will communicate with the ECU and help it out. I figure that manufacturers are on the verge of using widebands, esp. now that the EPA went and revised their testing/rating procedures and aggregate MPGs will all go down; meaning that we will have access to ECUs that are able to use the info. 'Til then, I guess we're screwed. :(

[bAdsVt]

That's what I thought, but I wanted to be sure. The word "stall" doesn't convey the idea very well, tho, so that keeps confusing me.

In essence, a convertor can be designed to transfer poewr at or above a specific RPM (I assume this doesn't take into account the actions of the lockup clutch), so it will deliver power from the engine's powerband. And, like you said, this affects streetable drivablilty.

Thanks, man!

It feels really sluggish when your just cruising around. Because you never get out of the stall. But once you put your foot in it, hang on.:D I have had many stangs with higher stalls. If your not hot rodding they actually get better gas mileage. The aftermarket converters are usually smaller therfore less drivetrain loss.

God bless.

[BC Lightning]

I still tow trailers and my boat with my Lightning and I have a stall, no problems after 30,000 miles

[bAdsVt]

What would be a good place to pick up a Lightning? And how much do the 03-04 cost? I want one around 20-30Kmiles no more.

God bless.

[WA 2 FST]

Are you talking a meter telling you what you need, and you using a tuner to make the alterations; or a add-on unit that makes the program alterations based on what it gets from the wideband, and does it all without your intervention?

There are stand-alone EFI systems that use a wide-band O2 sensor to give the ECM feedback and then it will adapt based on the commanded/targeted (by you via programming) A/F ratio at various rpms and engine loads.

[Tex Arcana]

There are stand-alone EFI systems that use a wide-band O2 sensor to give the ECM feedback and then it will adapt based on the commanded/targeted (by you via programming) A/F ratio at various rpms and engine loads.

Hum... I saw a guy building up a 460 Ford with a home-built intake and a Megasquirt EFI system, for some reason I'm thinking it's wideband-capable, but I'm not sure... hmmm...

[bAdsVt]

What would be a good place to pick up a Lightning? And how much do the 03-04 cost? I want one around 20-30Kmiles no more.

God bless.

x2

[WA 2 FST]

Hum... I saw a guy building up a 460 Ford with a home-built intake and a Megasquirt EFI system, for some reason I'm thinking it's wideband-capable, but I'm not sure... hmmm...

We're saying the same thing. I'm sure it _is_ wideband capable. Those are the really nice stand-alone systems. They incorporate a wideband which then allows the ECM to hit the target A/F ratio based on direct input from the wideband O2.

[BC Lightning]

What would be a good place to pick up a Lightning? And how much do the 03-04 cost? I want one around 20-30Kmiles no more.

God bless.

www.NLOC.net

[bAdsVt]

In Texas.. Where did some of you pick up your Lightnings?

God bless.

[Tex Arcana]

In Texas.. Where did some of you pick up your Lightnings?

God bless.

I think most of us bought them new from various dealerships. Otherwise, you'd do well to hit NLOC, www.svtperformance.com, and F150.com. :tu:

[BC Lightning]

I think most of us bought them new from various dealerships. Otherwise, you'd do well to hit NLOC, www.svtperformance.com (http://www.svtperformance.com), and F150.com. :tu:

+1

Bought mine brand new from Classic Chevrolet in Grapevine

[tiffo60]

theres a couple in the auto trader

[Tex Arcana]

We're saying the same thing. I'm sure it _is_ wideband capable. Those are the really nice stand-alone systems. They incorporate a wideband which then allows the ECM to hit the target A/F ratio based on direct input from the wideband O2.

I just got done having a LONG conversation with a guy from another forum, and he was telling me that he's running a Megasquirt with a wideband on his '97 Mustang, and it passes all emission and inspections in Massachustets. He's also building up a 'vette that'll run a pure Megasquirt and be fully street-legal. He's got the add-on unit on the Mustang, that controls only injector timing, and picks up inputs from all the stock sensors, and piggybacks on the stock computer so it doens't throw codes. Very nice. He sent me a link, http://www.msefi.com/
, where more info can be found.

Methinks a project is forming in my mind... :d

[WA 2 FST]

That's the key... he has an "add-on" unit for the car that has to be kept street legal. I had the same type of thing (not as sophisticated back then) on my old '90 Mustang hot-rod. The stock PCM controlled all the low-speed engine dynamics, and kept it emissions-friendly. But the piggy-back computer allowed total control under the throttle conditions I really cared about and needed to custom tune. It worked great b/c you're not bypassing any sensors/emissions equipment which might otherwise wreak havoc with testing/driveability.

[Tex Arcana]

That's the key... he has an "add-on" unit for the car that has to be kept street legal. I had the same type of thing (not as sophisticated back then) on my old '90 Mustang hot-rod. The stock PCM controlled all the low-speed engine dynamics, and kept it emissions-friendly. But the piggy-back computer allowed total control under the throttle conditions I really cared about and needed to custom tune. It worked great b/c you're not bypassing any sensors/emissions equipment which might otherwise wreak havoc with testing/driveability.
Yeah, and with a nice wideband, you can control ALL fuel delivery without ever affecting the rest of the electronics.

Now, he did say he was going to run pure MegaSquirt on his 'vette (89 I think? C4 for sure), and just hide it somewhere, so it looks like it's hooked up, but isn't. I need to dig more details out on that, tho.

[Tex Arcana]

Bump on the thread, but I just saw something of interest, especially to Brent :tu:

This month's MM&FF has Part 1 of 2 of a buildup of JDM's newest 5.4L motor, based on the FordGT aluminum block. From what I saw and read, it looks like this is the motor to get for built applications. They said in supercharged apps, the motor should be able to hit over 700hp; in turbo'd apps, it should be able to handle 1100+hp. :eek2:

I'll scan and post the article tomorrow. :tu:

[BC Lightning]

Bump on the thread, but I just saw something of interest, especially to Brent :tu:

This month's MM&FF has Part 1 of 2 of a buildup of JDM's newest 5.4L motor, based on the FordGT aluminum block. From what I saw and read, it looks like this is the motor to get for built applications. They said in supercharged apps, the motor should be able to hit over 700hp; in turbo'd apps, it should be able to handle 1100+hp. :eek2:

I'll scan and post the article tomorrow. :tu:

JDM has had their aluminum 5.4 blocks for over 8 months now :cool:

[Tex Arcana]

JDM has had their aluminum 5.4 blocks for over 8 months now :cool:
Well, hell... the article is new, so bleh! :tongue:

Speaking of, there's yet ANOTHER article in there, a turbo'd '05 mustang that's doing over 1000hp, Brent might find THAT more interesting, especially their choice of turbo and location. :tu: