Nitrous

[andy_cain]

Now that I have cancelled my warranty,
I am in the process of making some added changes to my L and wanted some input:

1) Electric fans - ALA _ Terry
2) Cobra water pump - Ala Terry
3) 50/75/100 shot NX wet

Any suggestions outside of chip reburn?:tu:

[L8 APEX]

AAA Gold plan :D LOL!

[andy_cain]

You will be first on my list to call...the evil DR. to the rescue.:D

Sure hope a "99" L with almost 36K can handle the pressure...I better keep plenty of Zaino on her:banana:

[WA 2 FST]

Chip reburn and quite possibly a colder spark plug (definitely a narrower gap). I know you're already running colder-than-stock plugs, but the nitrous increases cylinder pressure significantly.

However, in a blown application it can be very effective so long as you don't go nuts with it. Most people with supercharged motors use the nitrous more for its intercooling effect. That still applies here, as even our nice factory IC's cannot cool the air to -140^F ambient. ;)

Good luck with it, buddy! If I hear something down the street go "boom in the night", I'll know what it was. ;) Seriously, I think you'll be ok as long as you don't get greedy.

[andy_cain]

I have the Denso IT-24's and I would imagine they are gapped to .40 (Terry can speak to the accuracy of that).
I was thinking of a conservative shot like 50, even a 30 would be nice if they make such a thing.
Anyone know what setup Andre in Houston was running???

[1BADTK]

Maybe I can help Andy?
When I do spray at the track for play its normally a 50 shot, wet, by NX also. I sti run the TR6's but gapped at .038 just in case. I also have a nitrous program on one of my PSP chips for street fun. Don't use the stuff on race day cause its so inconsistent with bottle pressure. If I ever wanted to race with it I would invest in a good bottle heating system that would help maintain a constent heat/bottle pressure to enhance the consistent run.
With a good nitrous program you should be safe at 50-75, but any futher and I would do some dyno tuning, with a good A/F reading and a EGT meter.

[andy_cain]

Do you have any sugestions as to what system to run?
What kind of improvements can I expect with a 50 shot and the bottle warmer?
How many miles on your L?
Any input is appriciated...
BTW, did you get the cd from FFW I sent?
The Video was much better as it was clearer and had sound.
:D

[benyouall]

i have a person that has a truck that is still under warranty and would hate to say his name.he has chip super.no larger pulley ,air box. truck will cut 12.20-114 with 150 shot .has turned (1 ).11;998-121 with 200 shot .has only run this shot 1 time .do think it is a bit mutch.he talked with sal and he said with 6lb. 50 shot is at the edge.

[1BADTK]

Originally posted by andy_cain
Do you have any sugestions as to what system to run?
What kind of improvements can I expect with a 50 shot and the bottle warmer?
How many miles on your L?
Any input is appriciated...
BTW, did you get the cd from FFW I sent?
The Video was much better as it was clearer and had sound.
:D

Andy, I did get the video, thanks. I currently have 40,000 miles on my original motor. A 50 shot will cut approx. .30 off a 1/4 mile run depending on the tune up. I have run 11.41 with a 90 shot (custom jets) and can consistenly run in the low 12.1-.2's without the nitrous. The key is to tune the truck to its best 1st, then add the nitrous with a special nitrous program. A single 50 shot puts me into the 11's and at a safe run.

The video with sound would have been nice, but I saw what I was looking for.

[andy_cain]

Looking at my mods...where should i be hitting without juice:confused:

[1BADTK]

Weight? how heavy is your race weight, I am at 4506lbs race ready.

[andy_cain]

last weighed in with me in it at 4760 with spare tire & jack with 1/4 tank of fuel

[1BADTK]

my guess would be 12.4-.5

[andy_cain]

Anyone have pics of the install???
I think it is settled....50 shot it is !!!!
NX Wet with bottle warmer and pressure gauge.:D

[Red2002]

If you dumped your 3.55's for some 3.73's or 4.11's it would feel like you had a 50-shot. :D

Were you trying for some baseline runs at full weight? I can't imagine running down the track with a spare, jack, and possibly a hitch.

[andy_cain]

Just running baselines, dropped the hitch a while back, had the spare under there hoping it would put more weight over the rear wheels to get traction as I am severly traction challenged even with the Nitto 555's still couldn't pull better than a 1.935 60' foot with 17 pounds of air in the tires and the froont sway bar disconected.
For personal best times I now remove jack, spare tire, sub box, tailgate, even the spare tire tool under the hood and even floor mats.
My best Et of 12.887 was with 100+ octaine on the race program side of the 4 way PSP chip with totally cold motor, iced intake all the way to the line, all 3 of the 7 inch intercooler fans running, disconected sway bar in front, no front passenger seat, no tailgate, no spare, no jack, no washer fluid, no sub box and less than 1/4 tank of fuel with OD off and 35 pounds of air in the front tires...I should be able to hit mid 12's without jumping through all of those hoops with my current mods.
The 3:73 gears have been a consideration but seem to be costly on the labor end of the equasion. 4:11's would be great for track but would blow chunks on the highway.
I personally think that my times could be better if:

1) Lower outside temps and humidity
2) running a bit leaner on the race program than 11 AFR maybe closer to 12.5 to 12.7
3) My plugs are denso IT-24's that are cold natured to begin with, may be better suited for IT-22's

Thoughts anyone...I have a call scheduled today at 5 Pm with sal to discuss what is holding me back.
I have a new fuel filter, Mobil 1 synthetic changed every 3K miles or after ANY track time, Mobil 1 ATF changed twice in past 2 mos.
No detonation problems, always run Mobil or Exxon 93 gas, waste gate unpluged, Autometer boost gauge consistantly hits 12 pounds with the 4# lower pulley....

This truck had absolutly no mods (not even K&N airfilter) until 32K miles and was very well maintained from day 1

Something is just not hitting
:mad:

[Red2002]

You're right Wayne, something seems amiss. There are many Lightnings running mid-12's with full weight and fewer mods than yourself. :confused: You are making the power on the dyno, but it's not translating to the track. Hmm...

[WA 2 FST]

I don't know... you're 30rwhp higher than me and your best run is ~3mph faster than mine. That seems about right.

Now maybe with your mods you should be ~410rwhp or so, I don't know...but I think 396rwhp isn't going to run much better (not in TX heat) than 106+mph with 4700+lbs to haul.

Wayne if you get a 50^F day, your truck will run 108+mph. Period. Simple as that.

As far as tuning the WOT A/F ratio...if you run nitrous, you will want to keep it in the 11.0-11.4:1 range. Getting into the mid-12s can cause problems (not all the time, but with varying conditions, you could run into trouble) unless you are running some 105-115 octane gas.

[1BADTK]

1.935 60' foot

This is a problem, get some tires that will hold that baby.

[andy_cain]

Here is the way it is going to work:

1) Getting new electric Fan and Cobra R water pump with 170 thermostat - Terry...get ready...need them done this weekend
2) Having my 4 way PSP chip reburned as follows:

1) Street daily drive afr #'s around 10, tuned in case of bad gas
2) Street mode with AFR#'s around 11's with some of the current line pressure taken out to smooth out the shifts.
3) Agressive street with AFR#'s running closer to 12 with current line pressure left in.
4) Nitrous program with AFR#'s at 11 tuned with same line pressure as current nd set for 50 to 75 shot of juice

3) Buying PSP's 1999 - 2002 PSP complete Lightning Nitrous Package with bottle warmer, pressure gauge and billet injection plate.

4) Buying and installing Truck Track traction bars
5) Buying used set of real slicks MT or Hoosier 16X8 aluminum wheels with 16X10X26 or X28 slicks.

I am going to start with the 50 shot and try it for a while then maybe move to the 75.

I am opting for Nitrous rather than a larger pulley since a pulley:
1) Builds more heat
2) is on all the time

Sal seemed to think that the 99/00 could hold a 4# pulley and 75 shot fairly well but sugested if I change to a 75 shot I may waant to change the Denso IT-24's for NGK BR7's but for a 50 shot he sugested leaving the Denso's.

I am also going to keep loking for a way to use the Cervinis hood air intake in a productive manner as well as add on the air induction box and plumbing under the front ground effect unless I can find a way to fit it behind the lower grill to keep from knocking it off with parking curbs or sucking up small rodents

:tu: :tu:

Any Final Thoughts/sugestions?

I also have not ruled out high flow cats instaed of these stock POS's:hammer:

[1BADTK]

That's a good start andy, but don't give up on it. It will take some tuning, not only of the chip, but the traction bars and slicks together to achieve your best.
:tu:

[andy_cain]

And if that doesn't get me to 11.999999 by God i will strap a JATO to the snug lid and mount a power cooler under the snug lid bigger than most garden tubs...LOL:D

[L8 APEX]

ET is in the 60'. That is why my truck only runs 13.15's @ 108 with 2.1-2.2 60's. Road race suspension no drag race well but how much time do I spend drag racing... You get in the 1.76-1.8_'s you are there! 11's will require @1.65 60'.

[Lil Nicky88]

I'm spraying a 50 shot. I have an NX wet kit that is good for 50-150 shot. I bought and installed it locally. I don't spray from a dead stop. I wait till I shift into second then I hit it. I don't light the tires up or anything. I just pick up quite a bit faster.

Two things I suggest: if you decide to run a WOT switch, get a window switch to compliment it. With a window switch, it won't spray between shifts (which is a bad thing). And, you should definitely get a purge with it. It not only gets all of the air out of the line, but it also looks cool when you feel like showing off.

I'm actually running a "happy button" trigger system. I just push the button, and I get happy.

I also have a bottle warmer, and a custom bottle mount so the bottle sits right on top of my boxes.

Where do you plan on getting that kit installed?

[andy_cain]

You were not running a 50 shot when I strolled away from you the other day were you???
I plan on getting Sal's NX kit that does have the bottle warmer.
Thinking of a remote bottle opener too.
:confused:

[Lil Nicky88]

I didn't have it hooked up then. I was happy until you reminded me of that...

remote bottle openers are cool, if you are mounting it in the bed. You are just planning on having a nice little "control panel" aren't you?

[andy_cain]

Was thinking along those lines yes. Nice pannel with 4 way PSP chip, pressure gauge, remote opener switch, warmer switch and "SEE YA" button.
Would like to see your set up and how yours came together.
Where did you get your setup from and how much did it help?
What other mods are you running with?:beer:

[wesman]

Originally posted by andy_cain
Was thinking along those lines yes. Nice pannel with 4 way PSP chip, pressure gauge, remote opener switch, warmer switch and "SEE YA" button.
Would like to see your set up and how yours came together.
Where did you get your setup from and how much did it help?
What other mods are you running with?:beer:

Andy we need to hook up and discuss these things ...I'm going down the same road as you are :tu:

My powercooler will be here tomorrow or Fri and my long tubes got here today...unfortunately they didn't send the dang cats with them :hammer:

Once it all gets here and installed I'm heading to the dyno (Fri during the day,off on Fri :p ) and then heading to Ennis for some runs. I'm gonna take the 350Z as well...trying to see if some of my drag radials/wheels from the z32 will fit on there :tu:

Let me know what's up with the nitrous, who installs it, mounting etc...I need some ideas :tu:

--wes

[Lil Nicky88]

The guy that installed it is one of my friends that runs a shop called "Wicked Speed Motorsports." It's basically a small deal out of his garage. He does know what he is doing though. If I can post this without L8 getting mad at me, his website is www.wickedspeed.com . Check out the staff pics. He built that 71 chevy. it has 1200hp and it is street legal. And he is in Plano.

I actually made the mistake of getting a used kit, but I have since replaced everything that I didn't get with it.

[MadMax]

Originally posted by andy_cain
And if that doesn't get me to 11.999999 by God i will strap a JATO to the snug lid and mount a power cooler under the snug lid bigger than most garden tubs...LOL:D


Wayne, Swiss cheese the frame..LOL

[WA 2 FST]

Wayne,

If you want to use the nitrous on the street, then I _strongly_ suggest doing what Nicky has done with the manually activated nitrous button.

This is how I have it set up on my Z06. On any real street tire, you cannot use the nitrous in 1st gear on any car that makes any real power. If you only have a WOT switch, and you arm the system, then when you try to go WOT in 1st, you'll just light up the tires. Looks cool, but doesn't win any races. :( Gets old real fast.

The only issue with remote bottle openers is that invariably they stick open or shut when you really _need_ them to work.

If you are going to mount the bottle in the trunk bed, you DEFINITELY need a bottle warmer, but when it gets cold you'll have a hard time keeping the bottle pressure up...although your bed is pretty well insulated. You may not have room to put the bottle behind the passenger seat, but that may be a better place for it as far as practical use of the system.

Here's a pic of the NX switch panel I put in my Z06. I'm sure you could use this, too. It is cheap enough that its worth buying the kit, instead of building the panel...and the switches are of top-quality. Too many switches out there burn up b/c they cannot handle the load.

[andy_cain]

I have inquired about some used wet kits but really think I would be better off running with a new kit even if it is a bit more $$$, I hear stories about sylenoids that can stick and other crap.
Suposedly, Sals setup with the billet plate for the sprayer is a very simple install that can be done in a little over an hour depending on where you mount the bottle and gauge.
I really want the bottle hidden in the bed under my carpeted amp rack that is in there at the angle.
I want the pressure gauge up front with the "button" and would really need the remote opener so I don't have to either leave the bottle open all the time or pull over to open it.
Also think a purge system is a must have...kinda like that nose blowing look anyway.
I expect that my friend Mike who did my tripple gauge pod, stereo box, amp rack, headers, drive shaft and other crap will install it...in the mean time I get to dream up some kind of cool controll pannel...would be great to have an LCD panel in the middle of this "controll pannel" with a laptop under the passenger seat running AutoTap with the display being projected on the screen in the middle of the controll panel with the 4 way flip chip, bottle opener and pressure gauge, transmission temp gauge and so forth...just thinking outloud now:banana:

[WA 2 FST]

Whether you buy new or used, solenoid maintenance is an important part of running a trouble-free nitrous system.

The seals inside the solenoid break down and/or swell eventually. If you don't run it that often (I don't), then you probably don't have to rebuild them but every couple of years.

[andy_cain]

I definatly want a "button" system...that is the fun part isn't it.
Wes, are you running a purge system on your Z06?

[WA 2 FST]

Originally posted by andy_cain
I definatly want a "button" system...that is the fun part isn't it.
Wes, are you running a purge system on your Z06?

Yes, I've got a purge. The only reason I have one, though, is b/c this is a wet kit. On a dry kit, I do not think its worth it unless you're running slicks and leaving ON the nitrous.

Why? Well, even if you have a bit of air in the line, this just gives you a bit softer hit initially. Nothing wrong with that on street tires.

Is it cool? Yeah, but while you're acting cool, you might as well be ripping up dollar bills with the hand that's not on the purge button. ;)

However, with a wet kit you really need one b/c otherwise you get a split second of extra fuel being injected with no nitrous...slight bog usually results.

Here's my button-activation switch. Maybe you could wire the O/D button on the shift lever with a 2-way toggle...so it could work like a nitrous activation? Eh...good thought, but come to think of it, I doubt you could make it work like a true momentary switch which is what you want. I'm rambling...sorry. I just like STEALTH! Like that switch panel up there^^^. Close the ashtray door and you'd never know anything. ;)

[andy_cain]

That is sweet and I think it needs to be either totally stealth or total cockpit controll style...no in-between.
I am definatly going with wet and want the momentary switch, purge system and remote opener and warmer...want it mounted under my carpeted amp rack in the bed hidden...want the pressure gauge visable from driver seat though...not mounted on the bottle.
Really need the Exlorer center console mod

[Lil Nicky88]

my friend wanted to wire my pressure gauge into that novelty temperature gauge on the ceiling. There is an idea. He also wanted to wire my switches into my console, and to use it I would just open the console and start pressing buttons. My switches are in plain site right on the collar around my steering wheel as is, though.

[WA 2 FST]

Originally posted by andy_cain
That is sweet and I think it needs to be either totally stealth or total cockpit controll style...no in-between.
I am definatly going with wet and want the momentary switch, purge system and remote opener and warmer...want it mounted under my carpeted amp rack in the bed hidden...want the pressure gauge visable from driver seat though...not mounted on the bottle.
Really need the Exlorer center console mod

Wayne,

I agree that everything needs to be visible/accessible from the driver's seat. I mean what is the point of having it set up if you can't easily use it. Getting out of the truck to turn the nitrous on is a joke, IMHO. Mustang guys used to do this (may still do it, I don't race much anymore) all the time when I had my blown Mustang. I just laugh and tell them they could catch up with me 4-5 lights down the road, but I'm up 5-0 in the win column. :tongue:

Anyway, I'm gonna take some time to look around in my truck and see where the stuff could go where it would look nice. I would think your remote opener switch, bottle heater switch, and arm switch could all be very neatly organized somewhere on the dash panel by the steering column. The activation/momentary switch...I don't know. You don't want to be _reaching_ for it. Maybe one of the cruise control switches could be set up on a toggle...one side it works normally, the other side its the activation button. ??? Just thinking aloud here.

There is a cool digital electric nitrous pressure gauge out there. My friend has one in his '01 Ram-Air Trans Am. Looks sweet. I will ask him where he got it. It's small, too, and you can get it with green or red LEDs.

[rmedwards_99]

:cool:
I have a 02 that I am installing a NX wet system into at my shop in two weeks. The kit is loaded with a remote opener, heater,purge and remote pressure gauge.
I think that I am going mount the purge button and master on\off on the bottom of the sterring colume, the remote open and guage above the power port. The MSD window will control the nos when I get some pics I'll post them. I also get GOOD prices on NX systems

[Silver_2000]

Originally posted by rmedwards_99
:cool:
I have a 02 that I am installing a NX wet system into at my shop in two weeks. The kit is loaded with a remote opener, heater,purge and remote pressure gauge.
I think that I am going mount the purge button and master on\off on the bottom of the sterring colume, the remote open and guage above the power port. The MSD window will control the nos when I get some pics I'll post them. I also get GOOD prices on NX systems

I would appreciate it if you would contribute more than just advertising to the forum. If your only interest here is to sell your toys - Ill have to ask you to not consume my bandwidth ...

Terry from PR has been nice enough to help support the site in return for the ability to advertise to members here. Please consider following his lead...

Thanks

Doug
Webmaster

[andy_cain]

That sounds like just the set up I am looking for...probably would opt to arange the gauges and switches a bit differently though...you have PM:D

[wesman]

Originally posted by Silver_2000_;)!
I would appreciate it if you would contribute more than just advertising to the forum. If your only interest here is to sell your toys - Ill have to ask you to not consume my bandwidth ...

Terry from PR has been nice enough to help support the site in return for the ability to advertise to members here. Please consider following his lead...

Thanks

Doug
Webmaster


lol....Saving that in wordpad for easy posting Doug?...seems you've had to use it a few times in the last day or so :)

--wes

[wesman]

Originally posted by andy_cain
That sounds like just the set up I am looking for...probably would opt to arange the gauges and switches a bit differently though...you have PM:D

Hey man, let me know when you're gonna get the kit...see if you can get a discount if you buy 2 :) If so we can buy at the same time :tu:


--wes

[L8 APEX]

Wow, you blink around here and somebody is hustling your business:rolleyes:

[rmedwards_99]

I just became a member and a Lightning owner as well, all I was trying to do was help not just push parts. I thought that was the purpose of the site to help out fellow L owners. I will help and be part of things to come but, I am new so give me a break. :hammer:

[L8 APEX]

We all welcome new L owners and members:tu: There is a difference between individual members helping each other and the Hot Rod Supply owner posting "I get GOOD pricing on NX systems". Also your signature only states your name, business name, and business ph#. Most guys sigs are comprised of truck desc. mods, times, etc. Your signature is a business card, not a personal descriptive. I will give you a break but you have to see it from my side too. What a week, Miller time!:beer: