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98Cobra
10-23-2002, 04:56 PM
Hey guys, is anyone available to show a novice like myself how to pull the rear brakes apart and replace the pads? I need to try to get this done by next Wednesday, if possible, since I am going out of town right after work on Thursday.

Thanks!
L8 APEX
10-23-2002, 05:07 PM
Make sure you have the correct pads, the yare directional. Pull the two 10mm bolts that mount the caliper it will rotate up/down and off use a screw driver and pry the outside pad off. Use Vice grips if possible to push against the inside pad to seat the piston back in the caliper.
Match the inner/outer pads per side so the U shaped notches are on the same side of the caliper it will "hinge" back in on install. Then push on the outer pad watch your fingers! Make sure it is seated in the caliper. Swivel back into position and reinstall the two 10mm bolts. Call if you need help:tu: The rear pads are a 30 minute job wheel off/on done:)
98Cobra
10-23-2002, 05:09 PM
Shouldn't I turn the rotors?
L8 APEX
10-23-2002, 05:14 PM
Gosh this could start a horrible flaming thread. Unless you are switching to a Ceramic, EBC material pads no. Turning rotors ruins them on a molecular level. Rotors should be blancher (SP?) ground if they have excessive runout or a dissimilar pad material bedded to them. Never turn rotors unless you HAVE to:tu: Plus the rears are a solid disk very hard to warp:D
Example:
Corvette rotors are some of the cheapest made they improved the metal in them in 00. They warp pretty easily and often as owners report. When pulled and turned to correct to runout they drive fine until you get them hot. Then they retun to their warped position usually worse. We never turn race rotors only blacher grind or replace them.
But for most daily drivers turning is the commercialy accepted to correct excessive runout. Just not in the high performance arena. Stoptech has an excellent but hard to interpret article on rotor warping and life.
wesman
10-24-2002, 11:10 PM
Originally posted by 98Cobra
Hey guys, is anyone available to show a novice like myself how to pull the rear brakes apart and replace the pads? I need to try to get this done by next Wednesday, if possible, since I am going out of town right after work on Thursday.

Thanks!

Damn...if you didn't live two hours away I would help you.....shame we live in the same metroplex and I still need to plan a day trip and take a sack lunch to get there :)

--wes
98Cobra
10-24-2002, 11:18 PM
wesman: Yea, right? I was in So. Cal once, and I had to drive from Irvine to Mountain View(I think). Two counties away, still in the LA Metro area, and almost 3 hours. All city. Yeck.

So Terry, what do you charge for 30 mins. of work? :D
L8 APEX
10-24-2002, 11:25 PM
To throw pads in the rear.. If you come to me prolly 30 bucks:tu:

Of course I will try to up sell you on a fluid bleed with some exotic race fluid like I run, then the "good" torque wrench fee:D
I will be installing fan kits and suspensions Saturday in Duncanville if you want to swing by.
Mark #2
10-25-2002, 08:33 AM
You can come by the house tonight if you just want to throw some rear pads in. I just changed to some Hawk pads and the tools are still laying on the bench. Bring a can of Brake Clean, the kind with CFCs, I'm out.

Have you done the fronts already? Or is this a power braking deal? The rears don't usually wear out first.

Mark
98Cobra
10-25-2002, 10:28 AM
Mark, what time? I'll have to find the pads at lunch.
Mark #2
10-25-2002, 10:30 AM
6:30. Buy some brake clean and some of those blue paper towels too.
L8 APEX
10-25-2002, 11:11 AM
That is pretty cold to post an offer for free work right after I quote the job. I am sure nobody cares though. Sure are a lot of free mechanics in TALON:rolleyes:
Mark #2
10-25-2002, 12:37 PM
Terry,
I did not mean to offend you and the timing was just when I logged on, not in response to your post. Also, not free, just another form of payment, paper versus liquid.
Mark
L8 APEX
10-25-2002, 01:34 PM
That is fine. I am just weighing whether this Lightning tuning is going to be profitable enough to continue. With my day job ending any week I need to decide if it is worth building PR or finding a day job elsewhere. It never bothered me before all of the line mod and various bolt on parties you guys throw. Some still mail ordering parts from the same vendors I deal for ie: PSP/JDM. But now I see tuning as a business more than a hobby. That survival instinct coming out I guess...
Crawford
10-25-2002, 03:25 PM
I think that is just the way it goes in this group Terry. There are a bunch of us that like to turn wrenches on our own rides. Mod parties also give everyone a chance to shoot the sh*t and have a few beers. These mod parties are just the kind of thing this club was made for, installing them is half the fun! :beer:
98Cobra
10-25-2002, 03:38 PM
Mark: Pads and brake clean acquired. I will be acquiring Miller Lite on my way over. See you at 6:30!

Terry: No offense man - paying someone to do my brakes is kind of a last resort thing for me. Truth is, like when we changed my shocks out, I gained a lot of knowledge doing it myself. If someone who knows what they are doing can help me do it myself, not only is it cheaper, but I gain knowledge in the long run. I certainly wouldn't want to do the big stuff my self, but everyone says this is relatively easy, so I want to learn. Plus, Duncanville is a HAUL :D Mark is a lot closer. I understand your survival instinct for sure, but please don't get upset if people want to "turn their own wrenches" too.
wesman
10-26-2002, 01:37 AM
Originally posted by 98Cobra
Mark: Pads and brake clean acquired. I will be acquiring Miller Lite on my way over. See you at 6:30!

Terry: No offense man - paying someone to do my brakes is kind of a last resort thing for me. Truth is, like when we changed my shocks out, I gained a lot of knowledge doing it myself. If someone who knows what they are doing can help me do it myself, not only is it cheaper, but I gain knowledge in the long run. I certainly wouldn't want to do the big stuff my self, but everyone says this is relatively easy, so I want to learn.

The old Chinese proverb comes to mind:

"Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime"

If anyone wants to teach me to fish installing a torque convertor let me know :tu:

--wes
rickgig
10-28-2002, 11:10 AM
Gosh this could start a horrible flaming thread. Unless you are switching to a Ceramic, EBC material pads no. Turning rotors ruins them on a molecular level. Rotors should be blancher (SP?) ground if they have excessive runout or a dissimilar pad material bedded to them.

My front rotors are pretty much toast. Lot's of peddle pulsing during braking. I can do a search on the slotted rotors but what is this process above --blancher--??? I know the part about turning rotors and screwing up the rotor but can anyone tell me about blancher?
Mark #2
10-28-2002, 01:51 PM
Blanchard is a manufacturer of grinding equipment, but many companies mfg the equipment.

See below.
http://www.brakeinfo.com/bi/html/problemsnav.html
98Cobra
10-28-2002, 03:07 PM
Thanks again for the help, Mark! I haven't heard the squeak since. :tu:
MadMax
10-28-2002, 04:57 PM
Originally posted by HIHOAG
Blanchard is a manufacturer of grinding equipment, but many companies mfg the equipment.

See below.
http://www.brakeinfo.com/bi/html/problemsnav.html


excellent information! This is what we need....good info...thanks Hihoag...


http://www.procutinternational.com/

"on car brake lathe" hmmmmmmm...a new one on me..but I like it...not sure about ruslows rotors though...i hear they are hard to turn (lathe) any info appreciated...and we need to know who the local business is whom will perform the work....part of the web site under construction :confused:
rickgig
10-28-2002, 06:08 PM
Alright... so who in the Dallas area can resurface my front rotors this way?