Need opinions on cold air systems

[Bennettn]

I am pretty new to the site and need opinions on what aftermarket cold air systems y'all use/like better/whatever...JDM...JLP...PSP...etc (the kits they offer that replace the stock airbox configuration). Also, does anyone use the forced air induction kits that are offered out there? Are these better to go with respect to performance that just the normal cold air kits?

Thanks alot for any input y'all might have.

[Mark #2]

I am pretty new to the site and need opinions on what aftermarket cold air systems y'all use/like better/whatever...JDM...JLP...PSP...etc (the kits they offer that replace the stock airbox configuration). Also, does anyone use the forced air induction kits that are offered out there? Are these better to go with respect to performance that just the normal cold air kits?

Thanks alot for any input y'all might have.

What year truck and other modifications do you have?
If you are not above 425ish HP I would stay with the stock box as it is the only sealed CAI.

[02SVTKID]

Go with a PR open air from terry cole. He is who most of us go through to get our modding done.

[dboat]

Go with a PR open air from terry cole. He is who most of us go through to get our modding done.


+1, have one my truck

Dana

[Sandman]

This is what Kenne Bell has to say about cold air kits.

http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/general-info/HotAirWARNING.pdf

That being said. I do have a psp fast air. It does bring in the cooler air (relative to the hot engine air) in from outside. I didn't really do it for performance, I did it cause you can hear the supercharger whine louder.

Also, like others said, if your not making alot more horsepower over stock, then the filter is not the bottleneck in the system.

[my2002lightning]

I'm running the Air-Raid (below) on this stock '02 L. I had the open-cone setup before, but I ran the L in the rain a few times on the highways and noticed water on the underside of the hood. I figured that wasn't a good idea and went to the shielded / directed approach of the Air-Raid.

BTW, it seems to have way more throttle-response from the stock air-box and the S/C is much louder - especially under a hard take-off.

Ronald

http://www.airaid.com/images/400-124-LG.jpg

[WA 2 FST]

There are a lot of varying opinions on this, and all have some credibility. However, in a quest for power you want to get as much air into the engine (a big air pump) as you can. The stock airbox is very restrictive. Look at the opening into the fender. It's like sucking air through a straw. The velocity of the air may be pretty high, and indeed it may be "cooler" (not much, IMHO), but the volume of air moved is much less than with a less-restrictive system (of your choice).

Typically just adding a large open-element filter will show boost increases of nearly 2 psi. This is measured in the manifold, so the assumption is that you have improved the intake side of the equation by allowing the blower to move more air efficiently. The volume of air entering the intake tract in front of the blower increased, and it is not by an insignificant amount.

IMHO this offsets the hotter air intake charge. The air is being compressed and super-heated by the blower anyway, and then cooled with the intercooler. Certainly more heat is not optimum, but I'm not going to make a sacrifice in airflow.

[Mark #2]

There are a lot of varying opinions on this, and all have some credibility. However, in a quest for power you want to get as much air into the engine (a big air pump) as you can. The stock airbox is very restrictive. Look at the opening into the fender. It's like sucking air through a straw. The velocity of the air may be pretty high, and indeed it may be "cooler" (not much, IMHO), but the volume of air moved is much less than with a less-restrictive system (of your choice).

Typically just adding a large open-element filter will show boost increases of nearly 2 psi. This is measured in the manifold, so the assumption is that you have improved the intake side of the equation by allowing the blower to move more air efficiently. The volume of air entering the intake tract in front of the blower increased, and it is not by an insignificant amount.

IMHO this offsets the hotter air intake charge. The air is being compressed and super-heated by the blower anyway, and then cooled with the intercooler. Certainly more heat is not optimum, but I'm not going to make a sacrifice in airflow.

Not looking to have a big discussion on this as it has been done in many forums and is still going on today as well.

http://www.nloc.net/forum/showthread.php?t=123269

The cross sectional area of the MAF is the straw. IMHO.
The cross sectional area (hole) in the fender is larger.

If anyone has a stock 90mm box to donate I might do some testing at high boost levels but I am sure that this has been done before if we search.
(my stock box is only 80mm).

[RUNVS]

I run a functional ram air setup that utilizes a modified OEM airbox. It still draws air from the fenderwell through a K&N panel filter inside the airbox. However, when the hood is closed, the bottom of the ram air hood seals up against an additional K&N panel filter on the top of the box and ambient air that is picked up by the external scoops is forced into the box.

http://www.svt-enthusiast.com/albums/RUNVS/Emblem_overlay_2.jpg

http://www.svt-enthusiast.com/albums/RUNVS/Mvc_797f.jpg

[RUNVS]

Here is an in-depth analysis of air temperatures and various CAIs used on a supercharged Harley-Davidson F150.........
http://www.nhtoc.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2036&highlight=intake

[dboat]

Ken, that looks like a nice setup.. how does it handle the rain?
Having lived in Houston for 35yrs, I do know that it rains there on occasion... :D
Dana

[RUNVS]

There are water troughs molded into the air channel for both scoops that will collect any water that enters, and weep holes in the bottom of the hood allow it to drain out.