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tliss
07-06-2006, 08:40 PM
I noticed that my secondary drain is now active, indicating that the primary drain is clogged. What is the best way to unclog the primary drain pipe? How can I tell which pipe is the main drain and which is the secondary on my indoor unit? I figure the best way would be to follow the pipe from inside out,. Also, what tool would I need..a snake perhaps?

Thanks for the help fellers!

Tom

dboat
07-06-2006, 09:20 PM
I noticed that my secondary drain is now active, indicating that the primary drain is clogged. What is the best way to unclog the primary drain pipe? How can I tell which pipe is the main drain and which is the secondary on my indoor unit? I figure the best way would be to follow the pipe from inside out,. Also, what tool would I need..a snake perhaps?

Thanks for the help fellers!

Tom

Tom when I have had this, the boys used a little compressed air and then bleach to clean it out..

Dana

gbgary
07-06-2006, 09:23 PM
air/Co2 is the best way. typically the main drain taps into tub or sink drains. look under sinks and see if you see a pvc line coming out of the wall with a rubber tube tapping in the sink trap. that'll be the a/c drain. they usually stop-up right there. don't take it loose though...you'll have water all over the place. they can also stop-up in the drain trap (if it has one) in the attic and sometimes in the drain pan itself. i'd call someone reputable in you area. while they're there have the freon checked, cond coil washed-out, etc. you know, a good once-over if it hasn't had any routine maintainance lately. get a p/m contract if they offer one. you'll be ahead of the game then. if you do find the a/c drain at a sink be sure before it's blown-out the you close the stopper on the sink, put a towel in that sink, and be sure that someone holds the towel there while the drain is being blown out. otherwise you'll have a big mess to clean up in that room.

Silver_2000
07-06-2006, 09:38 PM
If its not stopped up a simple bleach wash down will kill the mold and mildew that collects

L8 APEX
07-06-2006, 10:40 PM
Usually one line is higher than the other in the pan, one dumps into the pan etc. They usually tie in under a bathroom sink.
Little Margarita story for you:
When I was a young service tech running service calls on my own at 17. I ran a clogged drain call at 8:30 am in Coppell. We just got some nice fancy Co2 blowers with full accy kit of drain adapters. I used the drain weeny (my favorite) and hit the lever. This was closely followed by a long high pitched scream from down stairs. I knew someone figured out where the drain came out. I slowly walked back downstairs and found the ladies 15yr old daughter scared shitless covered in black crap. It looked like a mud bomb went off in the bathroom. I apologized for not tracing down the drain first and gave them all the free stuff I could. I always checked drain tye-ins and put rags over sinks after that lesson. It was kind of funny later on. The ladie said her daughter was doing her hair or such and **** a brick when the drain errupted on her:rll:

gbgary
07-07-2006, 08:50 AM
i've cleaned up a mess or two myself over the years when i did service but i never messed up THE CUSTOMER. LOL

bleach is good in the drain line itself and ok for plastic drain pans but you shouldn't put it in metal drain pans.

tliss
07-07-2006, 09:44 AM
Thanks for the info fellas! There is no drain pan, it drains outside. I'll see if I can find a compressor and blow that focker out! I just need to figure out which pipe it is...awww hell...I'll blow 'em both out!

Tom

Silver_2000
07-07-2006, 10:04 AM
Thanks for the info fellas! There is no drain pan, it drains outside. I'll see if I can find a compressor and blow that focker out! I just need to figure out which pipe it is...awww hell...I'll blow 'em both out!

Tom

There is no pan under the coil ? In your attic ?

Thats not good ... Ill let the experts explain why

tliss
07-07-2006, 10:12 AM
There is no pan under the coil ? In your attic ?

Thats not good ... Ill let the experts explain why

Ahh...haven't checked inside the unit yet...there is no pan under ther unit that I can see...what's on the bottom of the unit is the filter. Pan might be directly above the filter. I'll take a look when I get home tonight to see what I have.

Tom

03LightningRocks
07-07-2006, 10:31 AM
Careful with the compressed air Tom. Too much pressure and it can very easily seperate your drain lines in the wall. How the CO2 cartridge does it's job so well is that it sends a shock wave down the line that dislodges the clog. Don't poor any drain cleaner type stuff in the drains before you attempt to blow them out. You don't want to chance having bleach dripping off the ceiling or walls.

;)

Moonshine
07-07-2006, 12:46 PM
i'd call someone reputable in you area. while they're there have the freon checked, cond coil washed-out, etc. you know, a good once-over if it hasn't had any routine maintainance lately.

Didn't think to ask, but presumably mine were cleaned out as part of the service? My main drain lines usually clog about once a year.

99WhiteBeast
07-07-2006, 01:18 PM
If its not stopped up a simple bleach wash down will kill the mold and mildew that collects

I've heard white vinegar will do the trick too

L8 APEX
07-08-2006, 07:22 PM
You can clear a house out pretty quick if you pour too much bleach in the pan. I would use a type of drain pan timed release tablet or slab to keep it flowing year round.

Tex Arcana
07-08-2006, 10:00 PM
If ya know someone with a pool, you can grab one of those big chlorine tabs, or pick up a couple in a bag at WalMart.

03LightningRocks
07-09-2006, 09:00 AM
If ya know someone with a pool, you can grab one of those big chlorine tabs, or pick up a couple in a bag at WalMart.

Those big chlorine tabs are for POOLS not HVAC evaporator coils. They are designed to disolve quickly. The tabs that we use in the business are designed to break down(disolve) over a long time period.
Two problems with this idea. One is that you don't need chlorine gasses in the airstream of your coil;) . Two is that you will cause rust and corrosion to any metal components.

Where do you come up with these shade tree mechanic solutions???? Just for the record, there are reasons for HVAC work to require a license. Being an engineer does NOT make you an expert at everything.

dboat
07-09-2006, 09:45 AM
Those big chlorine tabs are for POOLS not HVAC evaporator coils. They are designed to disolve quickly. The tabs that we use in the business are designed to break down(disolve) over a long time period.
Two problems with this idea. One is that you don't need chlorine gasses in the airstream of your coil;) . Two is that you will cause rust and corrosion to any metal components.

Where do you come up with these shade tree mechanic solutions???? Just for the record, there are reasons for HVAC work to require a license. Being an engineer does NOT make you an expert at everything.

Thats why I always have mine serviced by a tech from a reputable company like Rocks.. he did all my work, once I got on Talon.. unfortunately, Erie is a bit out of his territory.
Dana

I will say that his techs did like my attic. It was the best one to work in, in all of Dallas. :D

gbgary
07-09-2006, 01:00 PM
rocks is right about the pool chlorine. that would be a disaster. besides the fact that that concentration of chlorine is highly corrosive, and would make the system fall completely apart, it's poison and would cause sickness or death.

Tex Arcana
07-09-2006, 03:11 PM
Those big chlorine tabs are for POOLS not HVAC evaporator coils. They are designed to disolve quickly. The tabs that we use in the business are designed to break down(disolve) over a long time period.
Two problems with this idea. One is that you don't need chlorine gasses in the airstream of your coil;) . Two is that you will cause rust and corrosion to any metal components.

Where do you come up with these shade tree mechanic solutions???? Just for the record, there are reasons for HVAC work to require a license. Being an engineer does NOT make you an expert at everything.
Hey, I just threw out an idea, figuring someone would correct me; tho it's my understanding that the big tabs are slow-dissolving, because they're meant to be used in chlorine dispensers and floaters; my experience with them is they typically take anywhere from a couple weeks to a month (depending on the water temp) to dissolve completely in a pool or in a dispenser, so I figured that they would take even longer to dissolve. Sorry.

03LightningRocks
07-09-2006, 04:13 PM
Hey, I just threw out an idea, figuring someone would correct me; tho it's my understanding that the big tabs are slow-dissolving, because they're meant to be used in chlorine dispensers and floaters; my experience with them is they typically take anywhere from a couple weeks to a month (depending on the water temp) to dissolve completely in a pool or in a dispenser, so I figured that they would take even longer to dissolve. Sorry.


You made the suggestion as if you had some knowledge of the situation. Had you ask it as a question....for example..."what do you fellers think of the idea of putting a chlorine bomb in your airstream?", I probably wouldn't have come off like an ass(myself). But since your post was suggesting a VERY dangerous idea as inspired by infinite wisdom, my first thought was to take a big Sh!t right in the middle of your stupid post.

Tex Arcana
07-09-2006, 04:41 PM
You made the suggestion as if you had some knowledge of the situation. Had you ask it as a question....for example..."what do you fellers think of the idea of putting a chlorine bomb in your airstream?", I probably wouldn't have come off like an ass(myself). But since your post was suggesting a VERY dangerous idea as inspired by infinite wisdom, my first thought was to take a big Sh!t right in the middle of your stupid post.
Just for you, Rocks:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/texarcana/SMiles/ST-Pile.jpg

03LightningRocks
07-09-2006, 05:48 PM
Just for you, Rocks:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v111/texarcana/SMiles/ST-Pile.jpg


:rll: :rll: :rll:

L8 APEX
07-09-2006, 09:32 PM
Here is a link to pan tab products.
http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/drummond/showItem?itemNum=DN05230

http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/drummond/images/buttonMSDS.gif (http://www.drummondamerican.com/drummond/webmsds1.nsf/ItemNo/DN5230)
Part Number:DN05230 document.write(""); Product Name:Pantastick Gel Tabs for Condensate Drain Pans document.write(""); Standard Qty:1document.write(""); UOM:Ea document.write(""); Description:Tube Of 6 Pantastick 5 Ton Tab document.write(""); Size:TUBE OF 6 document.write(""); #Pkgs: http://www.lawsonproducts.com/shared/catalogimages/drummondj/dn5230.jpg NOTE: Picture may represent multiple items
http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/drummond/images/add_to_order_a.gif (javascript:addToOrder();)http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/drummond/images/view_shopping_cart_a.gif (http://www2.drummondamerican.com/drummond/main.nsf/showOrder?OpenAgent)
http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/drummond/images/showLevel/features.gif

Locks Into Place - Simply place in the water path between the coils and drain line. The gel tab sticks to the pan and never moves to block drain line.
Works Till Completely Dissolved - Nothing to remove or throw away.
Controls Odors - Prevents stale and musty odors from being released in the air.
Long-Lasting - One gel tab lasts up to six months (an entire normal cooling season).
Available in Three Sizes - Use PAN-TASTICK 5 for units up to 5 tons, PAN-TASTICK 7.5 for units up to 7.5 tons, and PAN-TASTICK 15 for units up to 15 tons.
100% Biodegradable.
Perfect for Central Air Conditioners, Commercial Refrigerators and Walk-Coolers.

PAN-TASTICK Gel Tabs are a unique approach to air conditioner drain pan treatment. As the moisture drips or flows over the gel tab, it forms a gel, locking it into place. PAN-TASTICK Gel Tabs never moves and blocks the drain line. PAN-TASTICK Gel Tabs keep condensate pans and drains clean for up to six months, eliminating plugged drain lines and stale water odors.

L8 APEX
07-09-2006, 09:38 PM
I like the pan strips, you can slap the **** out of someone with them:D .
http://www.digitalthermostats.com/condensatepan.htm



http://www.digitalthermostats.com/Images/Product/Condesnsate%20Pan%20Strips/stacleanpanstrips2.jpg


CS-50


CS-100


CS-250
(http://web.inetba.com/americanairsystems2/filecabinet/pages/panstrips.htm)
CS-600


Hydro-Balance Sta-Clean Condensate Drain Strip

Federally E.P.A. Registered Water activated, time released material controls growth of mold, algae, fungus, and other micro-organisms in drain pans.Reduces foul odors, pan corrosion, drain stoppage, and helpsprevent overflows. Lasts up to six months, in some areaseven longer. For larger units, you can use either one of the larger strips or several of the smaller strips. Place as faraway as possible from the drain pan exit.


Application
Length
Width
Thickness
Mfg. #
Price Each
1.5 Tons or less
4"
1"
.25"
CS-50
$4.70
2 - 2.5 Tons
5"
1.25"
.25"
CS-100
$7.60
3 - 5 Tons
12"
1.5"
.25"
CS-250
$9.80
6 -10 Tons
12"
1.5"
.63"
CS-600
$22.04

For Questions or to Order this Product by Phone call toll free: 1-866-488-7828

03LightningRocks
07-10-2006, 09:19 AM
Cool....now we are talking about the right product. Here is the rub. We don't recommend using these products. Reason is the same as the reason for not using the chlorine crap. After a few years of use, your metal drain pan will fall apart. The part of the evap coil that sits in the pan will possibly develop leaks from the corrosion. This isn't speculation either. After spending more time in this business than I should have, and seeing the same systems year after year, for many of those years, I have watched this happen on many coils. We can actually tell if a coil has had those products sitting in the pan when it is brought back into the shop after doing a replacement. Most new coils have gone to plastic pans, but the coils still sit in the condensate and will corrode from the constant chemical bombardment. It is a long term damage, but if you get 5 years instead of 7 out of a coil, it's not wrth the loss.

Here is the proper solution. Clean the darn thing once a year. Simple, but yet VERY effective;) .

tliss
07-10-2006, 10:12 AM
Thanks for the info Fellers...

Now Ron, I was thinking about tinkering with this thing over the weekend and then thought better of it cuz I am likely to screw things up worse. What would it cost me to get one of your guys out to the house tomorrow to do some unclog work? I'll be home at 11am and can be there for the most part the rest of the day. I'd rather have somebody that's done this before do it and if they brake something they can fix it! Let me know. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

Tom

L8 APEX
07-10-2006, 04:40 PM
I eat pan tabs for breakfast and I see no ill effects:D . They are like vitamins for your coil.:tu:

03LightningRocks
07-10-2006, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the info Fellers...

Now Ron, I was thinking about tinkering with this thing over the weekend and then thought better of it cuz I am likely to screw things up worse. What would it cost me to get one of your guys out to the house tomorrow to do some unclog work? I'll be home at 11am and can be there for the most part the rest of the day. I'd rather have somebody that's done this before do it and if they brake something they can fix it! Let me know. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

Tom

Hey Tom. Call Beth at the office tommorrow. We have a chit load of calls, but she will get you in. The best way is to buy a maintenance agreement. The first year is half price and it includes two calls for maintenance which includes cleaning the drains. Tell her you are from the "groovy tie club"...:D . Let her know how many systems you have and she can give you a price on the agreement.

tliss
07-11-2006, 08:39 AM
Hey Tom. Call Beth at the office tommorrow. We have a chit load of calls, but she will get you in. The best way is to buy a maintenance agreement. The first year is half price and it includes two calls for maintenance which includes cleaning the drains. Tell her you are from the "groovy tie club"...:D . Let her know how many systems you have and she can give you a price on the agreement.

Got somebody coming out this afternoon. Called Beth and she didn't hook a brotha up with "groovy tie club" pricing. Hook a brotha up, yo!

Tom

03LightningRocks
07-13-2006, 11:40 AM
Got somebody coming out this afternoon. Called Beth and she didn't hook a brotha up with "groovy tie club" pricing. Hook a brotha up, yo!

Tom


LOL....half price on the maintenance agreement is hooking a brotha up;) .

Glad we where able to take care of your problem. Thanks Tom :bows .


Ron:beer: