Normal amount of oil??

[bluesvt]

Went out and was taking some things off the truck to check them out since I'm bored. I was taking off my filter to clean it and I noticed the most amount of oil I have seen in 3 years. Are the seperators worth a sh!t and I think this could have been causing some of my detonation like Terry said oil getting on the MAF. I was just trying to see if this is too much oil coming in or rather common. Thanks

[Mark #2]

Went out and was taking some things off the truck to check them out since I'm bored. I was taking off my filter to clean it and I noticed the most amount of oil I have seen in 3 years. Are the seperators worth a sh!t and I think this could have been causing some of my detonation like Terry said oil getting on the MAF. I was just trying to see if this is too much oil coming in or rather common. Thanks BTW there was a lot of oil in the filter.

I would say excessive.
There are so many thousands of posts on separator theories that I don't know what I believe anymore.
Interesting thing is that the factory vacuum label on the radiator cover shows an oil separator. So I put one of the air compressor ones in. I think I am going to replace it with a catch can though.

[bluesvt]

Well the far hose on my elbow has been poppin off lately and I get a check engine. Dunno if that would have anything to do with it or not. I think I got the line to stay on now though.

[Mark #2]

Well the far hose on my elbow has been poppin off lately and I get a check engine. Dunno if that would have anything to do with it or not. I think I got the line to stay on now though.

Not sure what the far hose on the elbow is please explain.
But if you have a lot of crankcase pressue, it could be blow by, cracked ring, piston etc.

[bluesvt]

It is the one that goes to the valve cover.

[Mark #2]

I guess it's the three lines inder the elbow but the farthest one away from you while looking at it. It is the one that goes to the valve cover.
That is just an open tube, no reason for it to pop off, do you have a stock PCV valve on the other side?

[bluesvt]

Ya still stock.

[bluesvt]

Cracked ring or piston. I can't be having any of this. I am already finding it harder and harder to keep the L everyday. I am doing alright while nothing is wrong with it but unless I get this new job soon I dunno if it will stay with me. :(

[bluesvt]

I did purchase the 75K warranty and I am at 66K miles. I can demod the truck but I used to have a chip on it so the clear coating on the PCM has been taken off. Do they check for that or any way I can cover that up and take it in?

[Mark #2]

Cracked ring or piston. I can't be having any of this. I am already finding it harder and harder to keep the L everyday. I am doing alright while nothing is wrong with it but unless I get this new job soon I dunno if it will stay with me. :(
Not trying to scare you, but to pop off hoses, must have pressure in the crankcase, clean the PCV, make sure it isn't blocked.

[bluesvt]

OOOHHHHH sorry popped off slipped off same to me but I get what your saying. I has been slipping off b/c the connecting rubber part was pushed onto the plastic too much and was not making a good connection. Since it's not "popping" off can I rule out cracked piston or ring?

[Mark #2]

OOOHHHHH sorry popped off slipped off same to me but I get what your saying. I has been slipping off b/c the connecting rubber part was pushed onto the plastic too much and was not making a good connection. Since it's not "popping" off can I rule out cracked piston or ring?

Probably, but I have never had any come loose, what is the code for the engine light?

[bluesvt]

I don't remember, I called Terry on it a while back and said it was prob a vac hose come loose and it did so I just used the x cal to clear it.

[99WhiteBeast]

I did purchase the 75K warranty and I am at 66K miles. I can demod the truck but I used to have a chip on it so the clear coating on the PCM has been taken off. Do they check for that or any way I can cover that up and take it in?

They make a pen that produces the gel that can re coat the contacts if you need to take it in

[bluesvt]

They make a pen that produces the gel that can re coat the contacts if you need to take it in

Where can I get it? I want to take it in sometime before the warranty is up and get everything checked out.

[bluesvt]

Could the extra oil have anything to do with running 5w 30? I always ran 10w but got 5w last time and was not paying attention.

[Silver_2000]

Where can I get it? I want to take it in sometime before the warranty is up and get everything checked out.

search for conformal coating

using the lightning search at the bottom of the page here I found this
http://www.f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61422

which lead to this
http://www.humiseal.com/automotive.html

[bluesvt]

search for conformal coating

using the lightning search at the bottom of the page here I found this
http://www.f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61422

which lead to this
http://www.humiseal.com/automotive.html

Thanks Doug, I appreicate that. I am going to replace my PCV since I have never done that and see if that helps. Maybe it's stuck open and letting oil in after 66K miles.

[Beaudee]

I have an oil sep. on both sides.The pass. side fills up every tank of gas,the drivers side has never filled up ,or have i had to drain it since i installed it 2 years ago.I only have a 4lb pulley though.

[bluesvt]

I have an oil sep. on both sides.The pass. side fills up every tank of gas,the drivers side has never filled up ,or have i had to drain it since i installed it 2 years ago.I only have a 4lb pulley though.

See I dunno if the pass or drive is the cuplrit. Is the PCV on the drive side? I need a part number for the PCV.

[BC Lightning]

See I dunno if the pass or drive is the cuplrit. Is the PCV on the drive side?

Just pulled all my intake stuff off and my driverside is clean, no oil, where as my oil seperator on the pass. side was almost full after dumping the oil out a week ago

[bluesvt]

Just pulled all my intake stuff off and my driverside is clean, no oil, where as my oil seperator on the pass. side was almost full after dumping the oil out a week ago

Whats on the pass side that would let oil in? So was the pics I had a lot of oil or average?

[BC Lightning]

Whats on the pass side that would let oil in? So was the pics I had a lot of oil or average?

Alot on the driver's side, my driver side was bone dry

[Mark #2]

Maybe overfilled the oil?

[bluesvt]

Maybe overfilled the oil?

Nope, I usually put in 6 and it makes it between the min and full marks. Could the PCV be stuck open?

[Mark #2]

Nope, I usually put in 6 and it makes it between the min and full marks. Could the PCV be stuck open?
The stock PCV valve doesn't really open or close, it leaks in both directions, spray some carb cleaner in it to make sure it isn't stuck.
If it rattles, when you shake it, it is okay IMHO.

[bluesvt]

The stock PCV valve doesn't really open or close, it leaks in both directions, spray some carb cleaner in it to make sure it isn't stuck.
If it rattles, when you shake it, it is okay IMHO.

Well it rattles so I dunno.

[Tex Arcana]

The TB dind't look too out of line, but the oil in the MAF and airbox shows it's a bit excessive. :(

That said, having a separator is better than nothing. The real problem is it's coming from the passenger side, both because the lower intake is evacuating it into the vacuum line (go figure), and because there is always some oil mist in the crankcase. The little one I put on mine collects some oil, but it doesn't get it all--when I pulled the blower, I was still seeing some fresh contamination. I've gotten a cheap larger one, but I'm gonna do some research/testing first, before I put it on.

Doing a search on NLOC netted the L&S unit the Motoblue setup (http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightsniper1.htm), and there is always my little setup here (http://i2.tinypic.com/r73fk6.jpg) (thanks to Jason), which while not perfect, does work, does eliminate the oil slug in the vacuum line itself, and filters *some* oil.

[bluesvt]

Thanks for the input everyone. I may just get a couple seperators and try them out and see what happens. I really do not want to get rid of the truck so I may just take it easy for a while till hopefully I can get this new job. :beer:

[bluesvt]

The TB dind't look too out of line, but the oil in the MAF and airbox shows it's a bit excessive. :(
Couldn't it be excessive if I have not cleaned my air filter or even looked at that area in a while? Say a couple months.

[Tex Arcana]

Couldn't it be excessive if I have not cleaned my air filter or even looked at that area in a while? Say a couple months.

That's excessive. I've been known to be not the most diligent of people when it comes to stuff like that, and when I first pulled down my intake tract because of excessive oil (detailed here (http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8278), but no pics, the site hosintg them is gone), I had a good amount in the boot, but not the MAF or airbox--and never have. And I finally figured out that the cause of the leaking oil was my fault--I had pulled the boot at the Frisco house about a year before, comparing it with Ronald's, to find some oil in there, and when I put it back in, I folded the bottom part of it under the TB flange, giving it a place to leak. :( Even then, I don't think the oil would've ended up in the airbox like yours.

Also, hit up that thread on NLOC again, I found a couple separator units that, tho expensive, are designed for automotive use, and should do the trick. One of them is about $140 from the supplier; perhaps a group buy would help that come down.

[bluesvt]

I'm down for a group buy. Mark got me worried though about a cracked ring or piston.

[bluesvt]

Well just looked at the truck and oil all in the elbow and both driver and passenger side hoses. Stuck my finger in both and came out covered in oil. :flaming:

[Tex Arcana]

I'm down for a group buy. Mark got me worried though about a cracked ring or piston.

He could be right. YOu might want to consider letting Terry look at it, and perhaps perform a leakdown test, before going into something that might end up being a bandaid. :(

[my2002lightning]

Kyle,

I'm not running any kind of oil separators, as I am stock, short of the AirRaid and the PR exhaust and I burn ~1qt every ~1k miles with RP 5w-20.

I've never experienced that sort of standing oil residue in the throttle-body and AirRaid box, though. :confused:

Good luck.

Ronald

[bluesvt]

He could be right. YOu might want to consider letting Terry look at it, and perhaps perform a leakdown test, before going into something that might end up being a bandaid. :(

I still have warranty if I can get some humiseal and make it look good on my PCM. All I gotta do it de-mod and I should be ok. by all means though I would much rather Terry take a look than the dealer but on my budget right now it's prob all I can afford.


Kyle,

I'm not running any kind of oil separators, as I am stock, short of the AirRaid and the PR exhaust and I burn ~1qt every ~1k miles with RP 5w-20.

I've never experienced that sort of standing oil residue in the throttle-body and AirRaid box, though. :confused:

Good luck.

Ronald

The thing is I have never really noticed any oil loss.

[Mark #2]

Well just looked at the truck and oil all in the elbow and both driver and passenger side hoses. Stuck my finger in both and came out covered in oil. :flaming:

I would suggest you do a compression check, if you have replaced plugs, then this is the same difficultly level and you can look at the plugs at the same time.

[bluesvt]

I would suggest you do a compression check, if you have replaced plugs, then this is the same difficultly level and you can look at the plugs at the same time.

I have replaced the plugs with some help on the last 3 from Steve and Mike. If it were something cracked would it not show on the oil pressure gauge? I only have the stock one to look at though.

[Tex Arcana]

I have replaced the plugs with some help on the last 3 from Steve and Mike. If it were something cracked would it not show on the oil pressure gauge? I only have the stock one to look at though.

No, it wouldn't show at all. You would have to do a compression/leakdown test to be sure.

[bluesvt]

No, it wouldn't show at all. You would have to do a compression/leakdown test to be sure.

Alright, well thanks everyone for the input I really appreicate it. I have no idea how to do a leak / compression test or what to use but if anyone does or has the tools and wants to help let me know. I can call in sick sometime next week and get a full day to do it. I have no $$$ but I do have beer. Thanks again. :beer:

[Mark #2]

I can't help you during the week, but Terry works for Crown and meals occasionally;)

Do you have an aftermarket vacuum/boost gage installed? If so, what is the vacuum at idle in Park, Drive, does it jump around?

This is an old school method of diagnosing an engine with a vacuum gage, when purchasing used vehicles I pull the brake booster line and put a gage on. You can tell a lot by what it reads/does.

One reference below, mine is old school, a book:eek2:
http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=ad&aid=47

[bluesvt]

Yes and I think in drive it's about 18 to 20. I will be gone this weekend but next I am off. to anyone that can help.

[Tex Arcana]

One reference below, mine is old school, a book:eek2:
http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm?fa=ad&aid=47

:eek: Someone call the thought police, he's reading unapproved materials!! :throw:

[bluesvt]

Says it does not apply to "turbocharged" engines. Wouldn't it be different since if I open and close the throttle quickly it will go into boost and throw off whatever it's saying it should be. :confused:

[bluesvt]

Did a little more research and if it was rings or pistons wouldn't it blow out some blue smoke? As far as I know it does not smoke at all, except sometimes when I get on it at the 1 to 2 shift a little smoke comes out but if I get on it again it does not. Also how well do breathers work and will it hurt anything?

[tiffo60]

Also how well do breathers work and will it hurt anything?

i had the breathers on mine and i got tired of cleaning the oil off of the motor that dripped out of them:flaming: , so i just went back to the pvc system

[L-Fever]

I think the stock pcv system is well designed and IMO should be used without an oil separator. The small amount of oil vapor in the intake should help with lubricating the s/c rotors.

[Beaudee]

I think the stock pcv system is well designed and IMO should be used without an oil separator. The small amount of oil vapor in the intake should help with lubricating the s/c rotors.

Hope you like cleaning your intercooler,the supercharger rotors need no lubrication.Any lubrication needed is accomplished by the supercharger oil from within your s.c..Oil from the shitty pvc system can cause loss of efficiency from the intercooler,detonation,and might cause the coating on the rotors to flake more rapidly.Just my opinion but i wouldnt drive a L. without one installed.:tu:

[L-Fever]

Hope you like cleaning your intercooler,the supercharger rotors need no lubrication.Any lubrication needed is accomplished by the supercharger oil from within your s.c..Oil from the shitty pvc system can cause loss of efficiency from the intercooler,detonation,and might cause the coating on the rotors to flake more rapidly.Just my opinion but i wouldnt drive a L. without one installed.:tu:

Wow, I was waiting for a link to a video in somewhere your reply....

[tiffo60]

Wow, I was waiting for a link to a video in somewhere your reply....

:rll: :rll: :rll: :rll: :rll:

[Beaudee]

:stupidc

[Tex Arcana]

I think the stock pcv system is well designed and IMO should be used without an oil separator. The small amount of oil vapor in the intake should help with lubricating the s/c rotors.

I have to disagree there, they should've run that line to the driver's side, so the slug of oil that comes out doesn't end up back in the intake again.

[tiffo60]

I have to disagree there, they should've run that line to the driver's side, so the slug of oil that comes out doesn't end up back in the intake again.

I dont understand a thing you just said here

be more specific:rolleyes:

[bluesvt]

I have to disagree there, they should've run that line to the driver's side, so the slug of oil that comes out doesn't end up back in the intake again.

Didn't you come up with something at one time Tex? I searched a post saying you "fisked the problem" and didn't know how it turned out. Are you still doing it that way or change back?

[Tex Arcana]

I dont understand a thing you just said here

be more specific:rolleyes:

Didn't you come up with something at one time Tex? I searched a post saying you "fisked the problem" and didn't know how it turned out. Are you still doing it that way or change back?

Post #28 in this thread (http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showpost.php?p=118778&postcount=28), where I posted the link to a diagram of the setup I use:
http://i2.tinypic.com/r73fk6.jpg

The problem is twofold: the lower intake line exits into the vacuum line to the uper intake, so the oil blown out of the lwoer intake will partially go back around; the other problem is the air pulled up out of the valve cover is full of oil mist (the primary source of the oil); couple that with the fact that, when the crankcase pressurizes, the vent tube on the driver's side reverses flow and pushed oily air back into the intake boot.

The setup used was first proposed by Jason; and I implemented it as seen. Now the weak link is the separator; tho, when we tried it on Rick's truck, it sounded like his front crank seal was "howling", and I can only attribute that to increased vacuum in the crankcase; I'm still trying to figure that out, too, because mine is starting to do it.

[Beaudee]

Wow, I was waiting for a link to a video in somewhere your reply....

Couldnt let ya down,this ones especially for you.:d http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?p=fart&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&b=71&oid=4927bb0653c42eb2&rurl=www.birkoph.com&vdone=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.yahoo.com%2Fvideo%2Fsearc h%3Fp%3Dfart%26toggle%3D1%26cop%3Dmss%26ei%3DUTF-8%26b%3D71

[dboat]

Couldnt let ya down,this ones especially for you.:d http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?p=fart&toggle=1&cop=mss&ei=UTF-8&b=71&oid=4927bb0653c42eb2&rurl=www.birkoph.com&vdone=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.yahoo.com%2Fvideo%2Fsearc h%3Fp%3Dfart%26toggle%3D1%26cop%3Dmss%26ei%3DUTF-8%26b%3D71


:rll: :rll: :rll:

[Beaudee]

I think the stock pcv system is well designed and IMO should be used without an oil separator. The small amount of oil vapor in the intake should help with lubricating the s/c rotors.

No offense Steve,and on a serious note i would install one of these on the pass. side coming from the pvc valve. http://lightningforceperformance.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=oil+seperator :tu:

[L-Fever]

No offense Steve,and on a serious note i would install one of these on the pass. side coming from the pvc valve. http://lightningforceperformance.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=oil+seperator :tu:

I ran one of those when I had the stock blower and removed after awhile. I'm running a whipple now and my tuner recommends the stock pcv setup.

[Beaudee]

Never heard that one before.The more boost,the more oil migration.Wonder why your tuner reccommended that.Whos the tuner.Whipples are internally lubricated.

[L-Fever]

Never heard that one before.The more boost,the more oil migration.Wonder why your tuner reccommended that.Whos the tuner.Whipples are internally lubricated.

JJ@Woodbine Motorsports

[Beaudee]

I would think the bad effects would outweigh the good effects.I have eaten crow before though.The oil sep. doesnt get it all,but does get the excessive amounts removed.Good luck with it,bet its a blast to have all that power.

[Beaudee]

Thought a few times about this one. http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightsniper1.htm

[Tex Arcana]

Thought a few times about this one. http://www.rpmoutlet.com/lightsniper1.htm

That's the MOtoBlue unit I mentioned in the other thread, and in the NLOC thread. Interesting, but I suspect it doesn't have an actual separator, per se, in the body of it. I think I like the L&S unit better, until we find something that is designed for automotive use.

[L-Fever]

That's the MOtoBlue unit I mentioned in the other thread, and in the NLOC thread. Interesting, but I suspect it doesn't have an actual separator, per se, in the body of it. I think I like the L&S unit better, until we find something that is designed for automotive use.

Were you guys in on the development the turbo-encabulator?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbVY5teBzlg

[Beaudee]

Were you guys in on the development the turbo-encabulator?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbVY5teBzlg

God i luv videos!:rll: That was good:rll:

[Tex Arcana]

Were you guys in on the development the turbo-encabulator?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbVY5teBzlg

:hammer: you bastard, this is a serious discussion! :throw:

http://www.reliableindustries.com/pics/mnh/tn125/3931070550.jpg is the Mann-Provent (http://www.reliableindustries.com/catalog/MNH/provent.php) unit, used in Mercedes vehicles, and others; I found a place that can supply it for $140-ish.

http://img.nauticexpo.com/images_ne/photo-p/55599.jpg is the Racor unit (http://www.maesco.com/products/racor/r_ccv_intro/r_ccv_prod/r_ccv_prod.html), which can be had for about $320, a bit steep.

Those are both designed for automotive/marine applications, so should do great in our trucks.

[bluesvt]

That second one is purty. I still need to find a way to do a compression test.

[Tex Arcana]

That second one is purty. I still need to find a way to do a compression test.

The second one is NICE... and it has alot of filter media in it, compared to the first one, but the nice thing with either is the filter media is replaceable. :cool:

There's GOT to be somoene around here with a compression tester--I've got one, but it's one of the cheap push-the-rubber-tip-in-the-sparkplug-hole type (shaddup, Terry, I bought it at a garage sale for $5 back in 1985, when I was dirt poor :tongue:), but I don't think that'll cut it. :(

[bluesvt]

Humored myself and changed the PCV and so far so good!!! I drove 30 miles all types of driving and no oil as of yet. I will find out in a week or less and let y'all know if that fixed it. :beer:

[Tex Arcana]

Humored myself and changed the PCV and so far so good!!! I drove 30 miles all types of driving and no oil as of yet. I will find out in a week or less and let y'all know if that fixed it. :beer:

What'd you do, replace the PCV valve, or did you do one of the reroutes we've been discussing, or a separator?

[Mark #2]

Humored myself and changed the PCV and so far so good!!! I drove 30 miles all types of driving and no oil as of yet. I will find out in a week or less and let y'all know if that fixed it. :beer:
What is the part number on the PCV valve you put in?

[bluesvt]

Tex, got a new PCV. Mark, it is PCV 398 Micro Gard. I just wanted to put a diff one in and see what happens. On my old one the peice inside had a lot of travel opposed to this one that slightly opens.

[Mark #2]

Tex, got a new PCV. Mark, it is PCV 398 Micro Gard. I just wanted to put a diff one in and see what happens. On my old one the piece inside had a lot of travel opposed to this one that slightly opens.

That's what I thought.
What is the standard application for that PVC valve..

[bluesvt]

That's what I thought.
What is the standard application for that PVC valve..

Standard application?? Sorry I'm a little slow. :beer:

[Mark #2]

Standard application?? Sorry I'm a little slow. :beer:
Cool, is this the correct part number called out for a L?
or something else?

[bluesvt]

Just the 03 F-150 V-8 5.4 not specific Lightning. Does it matter?

[Mark #2]

Just the 03 F-150 V-8 5.4 not specific Lightning. Does it matter?

Yes it does, Ls leak both ways, non boosted leak one way.

The old dime mod and a similar PVC valve was the answer years ago and I had them.

Watch for passenger side valve cover oil leaks at the back of the cover as this pressurizes the cover. Mine leaked and I took this mod out.

[bluesvt]

Hmmm, good to know. My other one just seems like it has too much travel in it. Are they all like that or mine messed up?

[Tex Arcana]

Hmmm, good to know. My other one just seems like it has too much travel in it. Are they all like that or mine messed up?

They are all like that.

Normal PCV valves are check valves, designed to close when oil hits them to try to prevent oil getting into the intake. Problem with Ls is that pesky tube coming form the back of the intake needing to allow flow into the crankcase, so they put in a pseudo-PCV valve that will flow both ways. The drawback is it doesn't stop any sort of oil infiltration wahtsoever, either. :(

[bluesvt]

They are all like that.

Normal PCV valves are check valves, designed to close when oil hits them to try to prevent oil getting into the intake. Problem with Ls is that pesky tube coming form the back of the intake needing to allow flow into the crankcase, so they put in a pseudo-PCV valve that will flow both ways. The drawback is it doesn't stop any sort of oil infiltration wahtsoever, either. :(

Good job Ford. :tu: Well I thought $1.50 would fix it but I guess I have no choice but seperators. Oh well.

[L-Fever]

I found on rockauto.com that they sell this pcv valve as the OEM replacement for the 2004 Lightning which differs from earlier year models(99-03=EV238). It is around $13 !
Quite expensive for a pcv valve. I may order one just for testing.

MOTORCRAFT Part # EV269
SVT Lightning

[L-Fever]

I called two different ford parts suppliers and asked why they changed from part # EV238 to part #EV269 in 2004. All they could tell me is that the EV238 is about $5 and the EV269 is $20 bucks. Hmmmm?? I wonder what changed? 20 bucks for a pcv valve!

[L-Fever]

Well I went at lunch and picked up one of each: $21 bucks total with my discount.

EV238 $4.48
EV269 $15.75

They are definitely different. I will post pics later. The ev269 is about 1/2' longer and is made out of blue plastic and the top fitting is larger than the EV238 and the ev269 has an o-ring on the bottom side.

[99WhiteBeast]

I ordered a 'dime mod' type kit a few years back that included the Cobra 2-way PCV valve. Not sure of the part # but it has reduced the oil issue:tu:
(I have since removed the dime size slug)

[L-Fever]

I ordered a 'dime mod' type kit a few years back that included the Cobra 2-way PCV valve. Not sure of the part # but it has reduced the oil issue:tu:
(I have since removed the dime size slug)

I'm trying to figure out why there was a part# and design change on the 04 L pcv valve and why does it cost 3 times as much!

[bluesvt]

I picked up a new PCV today at lunch as well and they did not inform me of a new PCV. They knew nothing about anything up there. My part number was EV-233.

[Tex Arcana]

I'm trying to figure out why there was a part# and design change on the 04 L pcv valve and why does it cost 3 times as much!

Well, post the damn pictures already!! :tongue:

Or bring it over here, and we'll whip out the Dremel and cut 'em open. :)

[bluesvt]

Well, post the damn pictures already!! :tongue:

Or bring it over here, and we'll whip out the Dremel and cut 'em open. :)

I wish I had the $21 to waste and cut open 2 PCV to see whats diff. :crying: :beer:

[bluesvt]

Let me know what y'all come up with. I have not looked at my oil since I installed the new one. I will give it a couple days and look at it.

[L-Fever]

Here are the pics:
http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/medium/newpcv_001.jpg




http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/medium/newpcv_002.jpg


http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/medium/newpcv_003.jpg


I can't see any real advantage the blue one has over the black one. It has a larger bore id and length, but you still can blow air both directions unlike a real check valve. I don't think it's worth the $20 bucks at the parts counter!

[Tex Arcana]

Here are the pics:
http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/medium/newpcv_001.jpg




http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/medium/newpcv_002.jpg


http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/medium/newpcv_003.jpg


I can't see any real advantage the blue one has over the black one. It has a larger bore id and length, but you still can blow air both directions unlike a real check valve. I don't think it's worth the $20 bucks at the parts counter!

That kind of reminds me of the MotoBlue oil "separator" kit, like they think the extended cavity will magically separate the oil from the air. You might want to stuff some steel wool in that puppy. :hammer:

[L-Fever]

The blue pcv valve is for the newer 3v and 4v engines. The parts catalogs need to fix this for the 04 lightnings or just remember that the EV238 is the correct Motorcraft part # for the 99-04 Lightning.

[bluesvt]

The blue pcv valve is for the newer 3v and 4v engines. The parts catalogs need to fix this for the 04 lightnings or just remember that the EV238 is the correct Motorcraft part # for the 99-04 Lightning.

238 or 233?? Your box says 238 but the actual part says 233. The one I just bought says 233 on both. Just curious as to why it's different.

[L-Fever]

238 or 233?? Your box says 238 but the actual part says 233. The one I just bought says 233 on both. Just curious as to why it's different.

My actual part had ev-233 on it as well, so you have the right one!

[bluesvt]

Well, just took a look under the hood to find a slight trace of oil in the elbow. No big accumulation and none in the filter like it was. All b/c of the bad PCV, ever since I changed it it has been great. The other one did rattle and seemed to be fine but just future reference to anyone that has this prob buy that first and see what happens. :tu: