PDA

View Full Version : Roller Conversion



projlightning
02-13-2007, 02:31 PM
I just got a few parts for my roller conversion and I wanted to know what feedback you guys had on this.

cam dynamics custom billet cam

lobe seperation: 114.3
intake duration:210.2
intake lift:.5189
exhaust duration:215.7
exhaust lift:.52319

fms roller lifters
fms conversion kit (tray, dog bones, etc.)
fms pushrods

I bought this new and unused off the NLOC which was put together by sstock. What do you guys think about this cam? My 93L is stock except for Pickrel CAI, custom 1-5/8 LT's, Magnaflow (no cats), all MSD ignition, and March underdrives. Also, I'm not sure I want to take on this job myself so, what's the average price someone would charge me to do the roller conversion?

WA 2 FST
02-13-2007, 02:52 PM
I think that cam will be a nice fit with the stock heads/cubes. It's pretty small to be honest (E303 cam for example is 220/220 duration, .498"/.498" lift, w/ a 110 LSA), but it will idle nice and have good low end and mid-range which is what you want from the 5000rpm 351W you have in there.
Should pass emissions (assuming that's an issue for you) with no problems whatsoever.

Sixpipes
02-13-2007, 05:09 PM
The swap is really pretty simple and sstock is a good guy so you don't have to worry about the stuff you got from him. He actually suggested I get the Crower 15510 cam for my application (cam card below). Still SD friendly, but a little more agressive than what you have.

As far as the conversion goes, it is really pretty simple to do, but I would pay pretty close attention to the length of the pushrods. Very important to have the correct geometry when putting the valve train together. I just measured mine last weekend with the adjustable pushrod and ordered the correct length. :cool:

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/cam_card.jpg

projlightning
02-13-2007, 05:22 PM
The swap is really pretty simple and sstock is a good guy so you don't have to worry about the stuff you got from him. He actually suggested I get the Crower 15510 cam for my application (cam card below). Still SD friendly, but a little more agressive than what you have.

As far as the conversion goes, it is really pretty simple to do, but I would pay pretty close attention to the length of the pushrods. Very important to have the correct geometry when putting the valve train together. I just measured mine last weekend with the adjustable pushrod and ordered the correct length. :cool:



I didn't buy it off sstock but someone who got it off him (prostang92). I have the tools to take on this job but when it comes to working on the truck, I've only done the basic stuff. I'm worried I may make a small mistake and ruin the whole thing...

Sixpipes
02-13-2007, 05:42 PM
Just noticed that you have a 1993. Some late 93 model year trucks came with roller blocks, but most weren't. I guess the obvious question is; have you checked the block number to make sure it is a roller block? :cool:

projlightning
02-13-2007, 05:44 PM
Just noticed that you have a 1993. Some late 93 model year trucks came with roller blocks, but most weren't. I guess the obvious question is; have you checked the block number to make sure it is a roller block? :cool:

oh yea...F4TE....

Sixpipes
02-13-2007, 06:02 PM
Cool. The time consuming thing is stripping everything off and getting the motor ready for the conversion. If you can get it to that point, I could help you with the conversion itself. Can you do without the truck for a week or so or do you need it for a daily driver? :cool:

projlightning
02-14-2007, 08:03 AM
Cool. The time consuming thing is stripping everything off and getting the motor ready for the conversion. If you can get it to that point, I could help you with the conversion itself. Can you do without the truck for a week or so or do you need it for a daily driver? :cool:

Yea I can do without it for week... What is involved in the stripping? I know I will have to remove upper and lower intakes, valve covers, water pump, and timing cover...

What else?

Sixpipes
02-14-2007, 08:32 AM
I don't think you can pull the cam with the motor in place. At least the radiator and A/C evaporator core will have to be removed. Take some measurements from the front of the motor to the radiator and compare that to the length of the cam. :cool:

projlightning
02-14-2007, 10:23 AM
I don't think you can pull the cam with the motor in place. At least the radiator and A/C evaporator core will have to be removed. Take some measurements from the front of the motor to the radiator and compare that to the length of the cam. :cool:

Oh yea, I forgot to mention that...

projlightning
02-14-2007, 11:17 AM
Oh yea, I forgot to mention that...

Do you think it can be done on a weekend?

WA 2 FST
02-14-2007, 01:13 PM
Oh yea, I forgot to mention that...

You'll definitely have to remove the radiator and re-orient the evap coil, but you should be able to slide the cam out with no problem after that. I've done countless (well over a dozen) 5.0 Mustang cam swaps and as long as those two things are out of the way, the cam would slide right out. I can't imagine there being less room on the Lightning... at least not from what I remember of my '94.

Sixpipes
02-14-2007, 04:16 PM
This is a shot of the front without radiator or A/C evaporator. The center brace can also be taken off, but you should be able to work around that as Wes stated. Like I said, the actual conversion is the easy part. :cool:

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/dscn6431.jpg

Flats Man
02-15-2007, 07:30 AM
That has to be Ronnies Truck with that Lime green under it!