Widened Gen I Wheels

[Sixpipes]

Got word they're finished and were supposed to ship out today. I'll post pics when they come in. $391 for two wheels including shipping. :cool:

[Fuzion]

Where at....

[Sixpipes]

http://www.weldcraftwheels.com/Shipping.htm

[Fuzion]

I've heard of them, wanted to use there services. Let us know what ya think when you get em!

[99WhiteBeast]

Bring them to the meet Thursday if you get them in time- I would like to take a look

[Sixpipes]

Probably won't make it by tomorrow because the Fed Ex tracking site shows it only left Toledo, Ohio this morning. But I'll post pictures this weekend for sure. :cool:

[Flats Man]

Way cool Dennis! Can't wait to see the pictures!:D

[dboat]

hmmm, wonder how much we could do on a set of stock Gen II wheels? wouldnt mind that extra width for better traction...
hmmm
Dana

how much could you do to our stock wheels and still have them fit?

[Fuzion]

I'm wanting to widen my stock 20s to 11 inches. So i'll be adding 2"

[Sixpipes]

There are really a couple of things to consider when widening wheels with regards to backspacing. The kind of tire makes a big difference because if you are planning on using a "balloon" type tire (drag slick or ET Street) for example, the tire will actually reach a pretty good distance outside the width (on the inside toward the leaf spring) of the wheel. In that case, the wheel may be fine, but the tire will rub against the leaf or it may rub against the inside of the fender well. I have seen wheels that would not work for a "balloon" type tire, but the same wheel worked for a radial type tire that had more support in the sidewall.

The other issues with widening is too much backspacing; so much that it doesn't matter what type tire you use, the wheel/tire combo rubs against the leaf spring or the inside of the fender well. In that case, the leaf spring would have to be moved or the bed tubbed, or both. A major deal, but if you want to remove the leafs and replace with a set of coil-overs and get into a new rear suspension system and a lot of $$$, that would be cool...but a lot further than most folks want to go just to put a wider wheel on the back.

In the case of my Gen I, I may have to tub the bed, but I should have enough clearance for the rear leaf spring. :cool:

[Chris94L]

what about using a spacer that has lugs. spacer bolts to the axle then the whel bolts to spacer

[Sixpipes]

what about using a spacer that has lugs. spacer bolts to the axle then the whel bolts to spacer

I have used spacers before on regular ole vehicles, but I don't think I would use them on something with a little more power. The spacer reduces the backspacing by moving the tire/wheel to the outside so it could be used if you have clearance problems on the inside, but it will make the tire/wheel move to the outside of the wheel well. Not always the best if you want to keep the side of your truck clean and relatively free from rock chips etc... :cool:

[WA 2 FST]

hmmm, wonder how much we could do on a set of stock Gen II wheels? wouldnt mind that extra width for better traction...
hmmm
Dana

how much could you do to our stock wheels and still have them fit?

What tire are you going to run that maintains the stock diameter? You won't find any that are 335-345mm wide that are 28" tall. I've been around this a number of times in my 8 years of Gen 2 L ownership.

You could _easily_ get a wheel that adds another 1-2" to the outside of the fenderwell (not creating any additional clearance issues inside towards the bed), but finding a wide enough tire worth upgrading to is very difficult, unless you want to get a "Viper" type tire ... something like a 335/30-18 and those are too short IMHO. To make it look right, you'd need to do a 285/35-18 up front or something like that...again, too short for my tastes, and ride would be compromised significantly.

[dboat]

What tire are you going to run that maintains the stock diameter? You won't find any that are 335-345mm wide that are 28" tall. I've been around this a number of times in my 8 years of Gen 2 L ownership.

You could _easily_ get a wheel that adds another 1-2" to the outside of the fenderwell (not creating any additional clearance issues inside towards the bed), but finding a wide enough tire worth upgrading to is very difficult, unless you want to get a "Viper" type tire ... something like a 335/30-18 and those are too short IMHO. To make it look right, you'd need to do a 285/35-18 up front or something like that...again, too short for my tastes, and ride would be compromised significantly.


Wes and Dennis, thanks for your posts.. I hadnt gone out and looked to see how much room there was on the inside of the wheel to see if I could run a 1-2" wider rim. Then I hadnt even looked to see about the availability of a much wider tire either.. it'd be nice though if you could,, because I would like to have more traction.. as it is, I am upgrading to drag radials this week.

Dana

[BC Lightning]

Wes and Dennis, thanks for your posts.. I hadnt gone out and looked to see how much room there was on the inside of the wheel to see if I could run a 1-2" wider rim. Then I hadnt even looked to see about the availability of a much wider tire either.. it'd be nice though if you could,, because I would like to have more traction.. as it is, I am upgrading to drag radials this week.

Dana

you can run a wider wheel and tire in 18"s, and its something I'm wanting to do as well if I don't go 20" or 22"

The problem is they only make a 45" tall wheel in what sizes we already use, if you go with 315, 325, 335, 345, then you start going to a 40" tall, 35" tall 30" tall

I know they make a 345/??/18 for the vipers and I might end up going this route, I will need alot more traction on the streets

But 20"s make the Lightning look soooooo much better

here is a link to discount tire for some 335/30/18:

http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/searchTiresBySize.do?rcz=75060&mk=DODGE&rc=TDMINT&yr=2006&vid=007512&cs=335&ar=30&rd=18

[WA 2 FST]

A 335/30-18 is 26" tall. Yuck.

The problem with the 345/xx tire is that you cannot find a matching pair in a slightly smaller size for the fronts.

Unless something has come out within the past 6 months... I have researched all this ad nauseum. A 28" tall 335+mm wide tire does not exist in a street radial that is really streetable _and_ is made by a manufacturer who then also makes a 285-295mm tire that would be necessary to use on the front. :(

[Sixpipes]

Came in today. Very nice work...

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/wc4.JPG

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/wc2.JPG

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/wc1.JPG

[Mark #2]

Does look like a quality job, 6" of back spacing?

[Flats Man]

Does look like a quality job, 6" of back spacing?

He be banging on the pickup bed a little! Pretty sure it will clear the springs. I think he is planning some mini tubs.

[Chris94L]

I think I saw him say he is going to fully tub the bed :o

Wheels look good Dennis

[Sixpipes]

I will tub it if I have to. I am getting them mounted tomorrow and will put them on the truck (unlowered right now) and see what I get. :cool:

[Sixpipes]

Plenty of clearance on the leaf springs...

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/tire_leaf.JPG

A little tight on the inside of the fender well, but it looks like there is room even on this 4" lowered truck. No problem on stock suspension.

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/tire_space.JPG

Comparison of 325/45R17 with stock 275/60R17. The contact patch is a little larger on the 325, but not as much as I was expecting.

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/tires1.JPG

I borrowed Ronny's (Gukimuchi17) for the photos since mine is on jack stands right now...
(I know I mounted the tire on the wrong side, but you get the idea).

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/tire1.JPG

[Chris94L]

You can test em on my truck. its 4" drop out back. Ronny's looks to only be 2". It would be WAY closer to the frame, you wouldn't be able to use the stock snubbers if it was 4" lowered.

[Sixpipes]

You can test em on my truck. its 4" drop out back. Ronny's looks to only be 2". It would be WAY closer to the frame, you wouldn't be able to use the stock snubbers if it was 4" lowered.

We changed the front hangers on Ronny's truck and they say 4" drop. By using the stock rear shackles, the angle changes on the leaf springs. Ronny stood in the bed and compressed the springs further and it still looked like there was enough clearance without having to beat the fender well in a little. Look at the with of the tire compared to stock. I was surprised that it was not much wider even though the aspect ratios were different. How much clearance do you have from inside the fender well on your stock tire? :cool:

[Chris94L]

I'm not sure I'd have to measure. I'd assume to have quite a bit more clearance though since I don't have as much back spacing. I wasn't aware of any 4" hangers, I think the only way to get 4" is with shackles/hangers or a flip kit. I will take pics of under my truck later on and you will see how much closer a 4" drop is to the frame.

Edit - Looks to be about 1.5" from sidewall to the bedside. I think I also recall when Ronny's and my truck have been side by side mine was lower in back. My truck sat on the factory snubbers with the 4". Don't have stock tires anymore having to run 275/50-17 all the way around.

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/6127/medium/lowered1.jpg

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=21365&size=big&cat=

[Sixpipes]

What I am saying is the 2 inches added to the wheel really doesn't have much to do with the tire clearance on the inside of the fender well. Because the stock tire balloons away from the wheel on the inside, the 325/45R17 tire with a straighter sidewall is really close to being the same as far as fitment. :cool: