Well it's time for the new engine!

[charlie]

I took off all next week, to do the engine swap, and baby sit the G/F after surgery.
I have the built engine ready with the JDM Romeo stage II port and cams and stage III steg. ported heaton sitting on top. ( I don't have the funds for the Whipple just yet). The 60 lb injectors should be here just in time for the swap. And the new tune coming in the e-mail..... And the SCT pro racer package, just to see how fast I can blow it up! ;m
I'm going Sat. night for one last run down the track with the old engine. LOL And the first run with the 6 lb lower and tune.
The new engine.....

http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/6111/medium/Picture_0352.jpg

And to top it all off. I picked up a meth injection kit in Houston last weekend. (cooling and safety reasons)
Wish me luck with NOT blowing it up on the 20 mile break-in.
Charlie

[Mark #2]

Nice engine

A 6lb lower with an Eaton is not blow up territory with good gas and plugs. IMHO.

If it doesn't rain I may go, haven't run yet with the new rear, converter, and tune.

But I will have a hard time getting a kitchen pass.

Glad to be back in the USA, China sucks, like Taiwan, tired of Japan.

Mark

[charlie]

Nice engine

A 6lb lower with an Eaton is not blow up territory with good gas and plugs. IMHO.

If it doesn't rain I may go, haven't run yet with the new rear, converter, and tune.

But I will have a hard time getting a kitchen pass.

Glad to be back in the USA, China sucks, like Taiwan, tired of Japan.

Mark

I'll loan you my slicks for a trip or 2 down the track.

And the run this weekend is on the old engine.
The blow up part is because of the style break-in procedure I do.
It will either be broke in, or broke with in 20 minutes after warm up.

Charlie

[STooPiD]

Gorgeous motor. Good luck keeping it all in one piece. :burnout::throw::hammer:

[03LightningRocks]

I'll loan you my slicks for a trip or 2 down the track.

And the run this weekend is on the old engine.
The blow up part is because of the style break-in procedure I do.
It will either be broke in, or broke with in 20 minutes after warm up.

Charlie


I have always wondered why I was told to drive my truck for a 500 mile break in period before thrashing on the motor with my first JDM motor and then I have JDM put in a second motor and with less than 50 miles, it has been put on a dyno for tuning and is running high ten second passes down the track, no less than 15 times.

I am leaning towards the "break it in like you plan to drive it" school of thought.:tex

[tiffo60]

I am leaning towards the "break it in like you plan to drive it" school of thought.:tex

thats the way i have always done it, and all your old school hotrodders will tell you to do it that way on rebuilt motors, start em, let em warm up and flogg the piss out of them:icon_mrgreen:

[Mark #2]

thats the way i have always done it, and all your old school hotrodders will tell you to do it that way on rebuilt motors, start em, let em warm up and flogg the piss out of them:icon_mrgreen:

This what I do and did with the L when new. In a couple of days you are done with break in.

1. Always bring engine to FULL operating temperature before high revs.
2. Drive the car/truck easy for the first 10 miles or so, varying the rpm's from 2,000 - 5,000.
3. Then, start bringing the engine up to maximum rpm's and letting the engine bring the revs back down by coasting in gear.
4. Repeat several times in order to create maximum heat in the cylinders.
5. Drive around at lower RPM's for several more miles, remembering to vary the speed of the engine every couple of miles.
6. Repeat number 3, 4 and 5.
7. Park car/truck and let the engine cool down overnight.
8. Repeat all the above 2 more times.
9. Change the oil on the third day.

Your engine is now fully broken in correctly and can be driven hard from here on.

Periodically, hard engine braking is necessary to get the cylinders as hot as possible and forcing the rings against the walls for maintaining proper wall smothness.

Every builder has their own specific method of breakin, and you can go back and forth forever in this debate, but it is not a complicated topic. Porsche suggests that the engines need to make about 6 million revolutions before it is broken in, and I maintain that after only a hundred thousand or less revolutions, what is going to break or break in, has already done so.

[L8 APEX]

Race engines are not intended for long term use so most install them and beat on them. If they last a season they did good, right? My diesel broke in around 10K. A lot of it depends on the finish left in the bores and the type of rings used. Piston clearnace etc all affect how fast it will wear in/out.

[charlie]

Race engines are not intended for long term use so most install them and beat on them. If they last a season they did good, right? My diesel broke in around 10K. A lot of it depends on the finish left in the bores and the type of rings used. Piston clearnace etc all affect how fast it will wear in/out.

That is exactly right! If your last hone was a fine hone, you have very little time to get the rings broke in properly. But if you honed it out like they did 20 years ago (not so fine hone), then yes you have plenty of time to get the rings seated in. And like I said, if all the tolerances are correct, it will be fine. If not, I'll be putting the old engine back in. :tu:
No worries.

Charlie

[03LightningRocks]

Snip.......... If they last a season they did good, right?.............. Snip


Well hell...I should have been one happy mutha Focker. I got a season and a half out of mine.:rolleyes:

This one should make it longer since it has only been to the track once in the past year.