Sound right?

[Rue]

04 Lightning
36K miles
K&N FIPK
Custom catback
Predator canned tune W/ the fuel fattened up.

= 341 Hp and 409 Tq @ 99* outside temperature

Off to a good start?

BTW - Thanks to the guys at Speedtek in Haltom City for getting my lean situation taken care off

[whitelightning'02]

my stock '02 dyno'd @ 352 hp and 437 rwtq.

:beer:

[Rue]

my stock '02 dyno'd @ 352 hp and 437 rwtq.

:beer:

What were the conditions? Air temp, humidity, and so on?

[tiffo60]

04 Lightning


BTW - Thanks to the guys at Speedtek in Haltom City for getting my lean situation taken care off


keep going back to speedtek if you want a new motor here pretty quick, those guys cant tell the difference from there butt and a hole in the ground:tu:

[Rue]

keep going back to speedtek if you want a new motor here pretty quick, those guys cant tell the difference from there butt and a hole in the ground:tu:

Whom do you recommend? For me HPP is out of the question, so Gear Heads would be the only other option. What's the deal with Speedtek, that many bad experiences from their work?

[bluesvt]

My 03 back in 04 did 360rwhp 407rwtq with sct bluechip, airaid, and exhaust. I think it was 89 degrees and 17% humid. Have not been to a dyno recently.

[steinjr]

I quit using Speedtek awhile back and started using Xtreme Horsepower (http://www.xhpsolutions.com/xhp.html) in North Richland Hills. He improved my Speedtek tune by 25%! 425/545

Ask for Arvil. He is a really nice guy and knows his stuff.

[Ohmsby]

I think history tells us to use someone who deals with L's as they inherently put more load on the power plant

Terry can sell you an SCT tuner with a few tunes and the truck will be safe and perform correctly

He has tuned my stock block 04 and many others with great success

If Terry is not your cup of tea I would search out other lightning specific vendor's

my .02:D

[03LightningRocks]

Stock. SAE corrected....temp and humidity doesn't matter :D.





http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/data/500/Stock_Pull_2_12-27-2002.jpg

[Silver_2000]

Stock. SAE corrected....temp and humidity doesn't matter :D.

Thats BS and you know it

My truck always makes MUCH more power in the cool weather than the SAE correction ...

[tiffo60]

Thats BS and you know it

My truck always makes MUCH more power in the cool weather than the SAE correction ...

+1

[TXLIGHTNING]

+2 :burnout:

[03LightningRocks]

Oh really? Then what is the purpose of SAE correction?

[03LightningRocks]

Maybe a little bit of reading up on SAE correction factors is in order here.



Dyno Correction Factor and Relative Horsepower
So what's all this correction factor stuff anyway??
The horsepower and torque available from a normally aspirated internal combustion engine are dependent upon the density of the air... higher density means more oxygen molecules and more power... lower density means less oxygen and less power.
The relative horsepower, and the dyno correction factor, allow mathematical calculation of the affects of air density on the wide-open-throttle horsepower and torque. The dyno correction factor is simply the mathematical reciprocal of the relative horsepower value.
What's it good for?
One common use of the dyno correction factor is to standardize the horsepower and torque readings, so that the effects of the ambient temperature and pressure are removed from the readings. By using the dyno correction factor, power and torque readings can be directly compared to the readings taken on some other day, or even taken at some other altitude.
That is, the corrected readings are the same as the result that you would get by taking the car (or engine) to a certain temperature controlled, humidity controlled, pressure controlled dyno shop where they measure "standard" power, based on the carefully controlled temperature, humidity and pressure.
If you take your car to the dyno on a cold day at low altitude, it will make a lot of power. And if you take exactly the same car back to the same dyno on a hot day, it will make less power. But if you take the exact same car to the "standard" dyno (where the temperature, humidity and pressure are all carefully controlled) on those different days, it will always make exactly the same power.
Sometimes you may want to know how much power you are really making on that specific day due to the temperature, humidity and pressure on that day; in that case, you should look at the uncorrected power readings.
But when you want to see how much more power you have solely due to the new headers, or the new cam, then you will find that the corrected power is more useful, since it removes the effects of the temperature, humidity and atmospheric pressure and just shows you how much more (or less) power you have than in your previous tests.
There is no "right" answer... it's simply a matter of how you want to use the information.
If you want to know whether you are going to burn up the tranny with too much power on a cool, humid day, then go to the dyno and look at uncorrected power to see how exactly much power you have under these conditions.
But if you want to compare the effects due to modifications, or you want to compare several different cars at different times, then the corrected readings of the "standard" dyno will be more useful.
How's it calculated?
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) has created a standard method for correcting horsepower and torque readings so that they will seem as if the readings had all been taken at the same "standard" test cell where the air pressure, humidity and air temperature are held constant.
The equation for the dyno correction factor given in SAE J1349 JUN90, converted to pressure in mb, is:

http://wahiduddin.net/calc/images/density/cf.htm1b.gif

where: cf = the dyno correction factor
Pd = the pressure of the dry air, mb
Tc = ambient temperature, deg C
The pressure of the dry air Pd, is found by subtracting the vapor pressure Pv from the actual air pressure. For more information about pressures and calculation of the vapor pressure, see Air Density and Density Altitude (http://wahiduddin.net/calc/density_altitude.htm).
The relative horsepower is simply the mathematical reciprocal of the correction factor.

Horsepower and Torque:
Power is the rate at which work is done. When the engine torque is turning the crankshaft and power is being delivered, the resulting horsepower may be expressed as:
http://wahiduddin.net/calc/images/density/cf.htm2b.gif
which can be simplified as
http://wahiduddin.net/calc/images/density/cf.htm3b.gif
where: hp = horsepower, hp
t = torque, ft-lbs
rpm = engine speed, revolutions per minute

This is a great formula. Basically it says that if you can keep the same amount of torque, then the more rpm you can turn, the more horsepower you get!
That's why Formula One and CART and IRL engines all turn incredible rpm. The faster the engine turns, the more power it can make (when it's properly tuned to operate at that speed).
Consider for example: a normally aspirated internal combustion engine typically produces about 1 to 1.5 ft-lbs of torque per cubic inch when it is properly tuned to operate at any specific rpm. With a 2 litre (1 litre is about 61 cubic inches) engine, producing 1.5 ft-lbs of torque per cubic inch, you would expect to get about 180 hp at 5200 rpm... but you will get a whopping 415 hp if you can get it to run at 12,000 rpm.
The 3.5 liter IRL engine is reported to produce about 650 hp at 10,700 rpm. That would be about 1.5 ft-lbs per cubic inch.
The Ferrari 3.0 liter Formula One engine is rumored to produce about 860 hp at 18,500 rpm. That would be about 1.33 ft-lbs per cubic inch.
And at the other end of the rpm spectrum, one model of the 360 cubic inch four cylinder Lycoming IO-360 aircraft engine produces 180 hp at 2700 rpm, which is 0.97 ft-lbs per cubic inch.
In general, production automobile engines that have a broad torque band will produce about 0.9 to 1.1 ft-lbs per cubic inch. Highly tuned production engines, such as the Honda S2000 or the Ferrari F50 are in the range of 1.1 to 1.3 ft-lbs per cubic inch. Highly tuned race engines such as NASCAR, IRL and Formula One are often in the range of 1.3 to 1.5 ft-lbs per cubic inch.

Conversion Factors:
To convert to other units, try the DigitalDutch (http://www.digitaldutch.com/unitconverter/index.htm) or NIST (http://physics.nist.gov/Pubs/SP811/appenB8.html) web sites.

enjoy..
Richard Shelquist
Longmont, Colorado

[WA 2 FST]

Thats BS and you know it

My truck always makes MUCH more power in the cool weather than the SAE correction ...

That's b/c it _does_ make more power than the SAE correction if you have very cool, dense air with a high baro. pressure present. In this particular scenario, your "uncorrected" #s would indeed be much higher than the SAE corrected ones. This is probably the case about 20% of the time here in N. Texas (where the SAE correction is actually negative).

But if the wet bulb is calibrated accurately in order to give the correct temp/humidity/baro. pressure inputs, then the SAE correction would be the same no matter when you dyno'd the truck.

Most of the time, due to the crappy "race weather" we get here in the heat of N. Texas, the SAE correction will be higher than the uncorrected #s.

[L8 APEX]

Yeah the SAE correction has never been equal to the power of cold air when corrected. Maybe it is a forced induction thing. I gained 30 hp once by turning on a 100mph fan on the truck.

[03LightningRocks]

That's b/c it _does_ make more power than the SAE correction if you have very cool, dense air with a high baro. pressure present. In this particular scenario, your "uncorrected" #s would indeed be much higher than the SAE corrected ones. This is probably the case about 20% of the time here in N. Texas (where the SAE correction is actually negative).

But if the wet bulb is calibrated accurately in order to give the correct temp/humidity/baro. pressure inputs, then the SAE correction would be the same no matter when you dyno'd the truck.

Most of the time, due to the crappy "race weather" we get here in the heat of N. Texas, the SAE correction will be higher than the uncorrected #s.


That is correct (ed):D Wes. It also reminded me that nobody asked the feller who started this thread a very important question. Are your numbers STD uncorrected or SAE? If they are STD uncorrected, that would be a possible reason for them being low.

[L8 APEX]

Most stock trucks do 330-360 depending on year and condition.

[03LightningRocks]

Yeah the SAE correction has never been equal to the power of cold air when corrected. Maybe it is a forced induction thing. I gained 30 hp once by turning on a 100mph fan on the truck.


100 MPH fan:eek:? Wow!!!!! That is one hell of a fan. The whole purpose of SAE corrected is Cold weather VS Warm weather. To state it is B.S. is to state that all HP numbers from the factory are B.S.


90% of the numbers I see posted on stock Lightnings are within a few ponies of each other. 03's and 04's are higher than the others. Occasionally, you will see one pop up with a small peter(low HP). The way to feel good about a small peter is to act like rulers are not correct.

That guys truck is putting out sh!t HP for the mods he has already done. There I said it. All the rest of this horse pucky doesn't matter when his truck is below the average of what all the other trucks are doing. It ain't the weather either. It is the tune....I will lay money on it:tu:.

[L8 APEX]

Factory ratings are much more controlled and reliable than billy jo and his barn yard dynosaur dyno. Like when customers complained about low HP at Wells dyno. I'd send them over to HPP for the 20-30hp dyno mod and they were happy again! Moving a lot of air across the heat exchanger makes a big difference on dyno readings for these trucks. Just like stuffing ice in the tank etc.. Too many variables for very accurate local dyno readings.

[03LightningRocks]

Factory ratings are much more controlled and reliable than billy jo and his barn yard dynosaur dyno. Like when customers complained about low HP at Wells dyno. I'd send them over to HPP for the 20-30hp dyno mod and they were happy again! Moving a lot of air across the heat exchanger makes a big difference on dyno readings for these trucks. Just like stuffing ice in the tank etc.. Too many variables for very accurate local dyno readings.


Hey...why don't you make yourself useful and make a post or two on the thread I started about this bouncy arse front end of mine:cool:?

[03LightningRocks]

OH yeah...and the sum bitch is too loud. I can't romp on it without setting off half the damned alarms in Plano.

[L8 APEX]

Ride height is the only factor on alignment, if it is too low they can't correct it all the way. I don't remember if you had cam bolts installed yet or not. I'd just clamp down the shocks to 10 or so and it will handle better. Sway bar is a turning thing.

[03LightningRocks]

Ride height is the only factor on alignment, if it is too low they can't correct it all the way. I don't remember if you had cam bolts installed yet or not. I'd just clamp down the shocks to 10 or so and it will handle better. Sway bar is a turning thing.


I don't recall ever having the cam bolts installed...unless you did it. I will try the shock idea. It feels sloppy as sh!t in the turns...kind of loose. I am thinking I might show up at Bone Daddys for the meet. If your there, maybe you can take it for a test drive and tell me what you think. Funny how I never thought this stuff mattered. Not untill I decided to drive it on the street.


Thanks Terry.

[Rue]

That is correct (ed):D Wes. It also reminded me that nobody asked the feller who started this thread a very important question. Are your numbers STD uncorrected or SAE? If they are STD uncorrected, that would be a possible reason for them being low.

Speedtek just told me SAE. I did realize that I forgot to mention that no fans(s) were used in front of the heat exchanger, if that makes any difference. I plan on adding a 4# lower and bigger heat exchanger as soon as the weather cools down, then I'll check with Terry about his schedule. Thanks for the replies!

[03LightningRocks]

Speedtek just told me SAE. I did realize that I forgot to mention that no fans(s) were used in front of the heat exchanger, if that makes any difference. I plan on adding a 4# lower and bigger heat exchanger as soon as the weather cools down, then I'll check with Terry about his schedule. Thanks for the replies!


That could be part of the short fall. With the mods you listed, 365-375 would be considered expected on an 03/04 Lightning.

[TXLIGHTNING]

Speedtek just told me SAE. I did realize that I forgot to mention that no fans(s) were used in front of the heat exchanger, if that makes any difference. I plan on adding a 4# lower and bigger heat exchanger as soon as the weather cools down, then I'll check with Terry about his schedule. Thanks for the replies! No fan :eek:

[03LightningRocks]

No fan :eek:


That happens more than one may think. I personally don't think it's such a great idea, but to each his own. The times I have seen a dyno done without a fan, the effects seem to be worse with each succeeding pull after the first.

[tiffo60]

No fan :eek:

just one of the many wonderful pleasures that come with speedtek:icon_mrgreen:

[Silver_2000]

Without working through the equation - whats the MAX SAE correction ? 5% ? 10% ? Whats the minimum change required for a SOTP feeling ? 10% or higher ?