O.K., it's finally time...

[TXBLU]

...to start the mods!

I have a K&N panel filter in the ventilated factory air-box and the Manaflow cat-backs (no chip). I want to get a 4# pulley, a chip, and whatever I need to keep the tranny from turning into a hand grenade. I would like to get this stuff local, and I can do my own installation. My only concern is, there seem to be varying opinions about the best way to keep the tranny alive. This truck is a daily driver, I rarely lauch it hard from a stand still, but I love to spank the occasional Mustang/Camaro/Ricer when the wife isn't in the truck (she just doesn't get it...). Any help you guys can provide will be much appreciated.

I've got a bonus check that burning a big 'ol hole in my wallet, and new pipes and tires for my TL-R just isn't gonna put out the flames. Woe is me......:p

Eric

[L8 APEX]

Odds are you will grenade your motor long before the tranny:hammer: Okay for those who think that is not funny... Line mod is the extent of your tranny needs. Let me know if I can help and we'll get it smokin' the cars:tu:

[TXBLU]

O.K., now you got me worried. Is a 4#er gonna cause me troubles? I was thinking I didn't need new rods untill I run a 6#er and possibly nitrous. I'm not going there, ever (are you convinced,yet? I'll deny it more if I need to!)! A guy here in the hangar says the best thing for the tranny, short of a Factory Tech-built box, is a valve body and deep pan. Again, this is a street truck that I really don't want to put on the track (hey, who's that twisting my arm?!? Stop it!!!). There's a guy here with a 400hp (no kidding) Taurus that just got spanked by a Silver L last night. I know I can KILL him off the line, but that S/C'd V-6 pulls pretty hard once he gets it rolling. I want to keep him behind me as much as possible. Then there's the guy with the S/C'd Mustang.... Well, you get my point. What are your thoughts?

Eric

[wesman]

Originally posted by TXBLU
O.K., now you got me worried. Is a 4#er gonna cause me troubles? I was thinking I didn't need new rods untill I run a 6#er and possibly nitrous. I'm not going there, ever (are you convinced,yet? I'll deny it more if I need to!)! A guy here in the hangar says the best thing for the tranny, short of a Factory Tech-built box, is a valve body and deep pan. Again, this is a street truck that I really don't want to put on the track (hey, who's that twisting my arm?!? Stop it!!!). There's a guy here with a 400hp (no kidding) Taurus that just got spanked by a Silver L last night. I know I can KILL him off the line, but that S/C'd V-6 pulls pretty hard once he gets it rolling. I want to keep him behind me as much as possible. Then there's the guy with the S/C'd Mustang.... Well, you get my point. What are your thoughts?

Eric

I agree with the valve body and the deep pan.

You should be fine with a 4#, just hope you don't spit out a plug....check them often :)

--wes

[TXBLU]

Good advice on the plugs. Do I need to change them to something else? Haven't paid attention to that stuff either.:rolleyes:

Eric

[L8 APEX]

I recommend plugs on 4# and up or stock past 20-30K miles. It depends on which chip you run. I have a FT valve body I am giving away for 100 bucks reg. 200. I configure it differently for which chip it is on. They don't shift as hard as a line mod vlave.

[TXBLU]

Terry, that sounds cool. Who should I get the pulley & chip from? Which plugs should I use? What deep pan do you recommend? (Sounds like a little kid, don't it?) Your help is mucho appreciated!!!

Eric

[L8 APEX]

I would have to recommend myself on this one Chuck:d Just decide if you want a flip or single program. I have been using TR6 plugs with great results. The Ford 4wd pan is the cheapest, I run the B&M on my truck. Check out the website though it is in need of an update:hammer:

[Moonshine]

Chuck, it sounds like your desires/uses for your truck are pretty similar to mine, although I did not go with a pulley. I did a chip and filter setup, with line pressure increased by my chip. I went with the Ford 4X4 deep pan. Having learned from myself and others, if I were doing it all again I'd go with a valve body, and have a chip that didn't regulate shift firmness. For my tastes, the line mod is cool, but a little too firm to live with all the time. 4X4 pan is great insurance, and a pulley is your call. From what others have said a 2lb pulley isn't worth the $$ or effort, and a 6lb. may be pushing it for a daily driver, so a 4lb might be a good median. I'd recommend you get with Terry on this. I think he can get you a setup you'll be happy with.

[TXBLU]

Greg over at NLOC says only PSP & Razor's Edge have the FT valve bodies. He wants $225 for his. Is he trying to chump me, or is there more to this story? Also, do you have the puller for the lower pulley?

Eric

[TXBLU]

BTW, who is this Chuck guy?!?!?

Eric

[Moonshine]

Originally posted by TXBLU
BTW, who is this Chuck guy?!?!?

Eric

Sorry Eric, I picked it up from Terry's post. I don't know what his excuse is. :rolleyes:

[L8 APEX]

LOL! I use Chuck as a generic reference to game show hosts.. Anyway, I have a FT valve body for 100 bucks if you want one.

[Tony2000]

I though the valve was better for the trans and for better shifts.

[L8 APEX]

It is the body is old school trany tech for stock trucks. The valve works better with a tuned truck.

[Tony2000]

Thanks for clerifing that.

[TXBLU]

So, your saying that if I run a pulley & chip, I should just do the line valve and not the whole recalibrated valve body? PSP's web site seemed to make a pretty good argument for the VB. I'm starting to get a little confused here.....:confused:

Eric

[L8 APEX]

You are reading too many sales pitches on the forum. The FT body has a smaller line mod and stiffer springs to = firm shift. The line mod uses a larger valve and stock springs to = firm shift. The heavy springs make the engagements too short w/ a chip alread yprogramming shorter engagements. They can learch into 3rd and O/D.

[TXBLU]

So what you are saying is that with your FT (Factory Tech, right? Or is that something else?) valve body, you configure the shift accumulator springs to compensate for whichever chip's shift program I'm running. I had heard someone say the best thing (for the tranny) to do is to change the shift characteristics via a valve body, and NOT through the computer (in other words, don't burn any transmission programming changes into your aftermarket chip). Does that sound right? Do most of the guys that burn chips put transmission programming changes in? Is there stuff that SHOULD be changed and others that SHOULDN'T?

WTF???

I just want the best I can get, short of building a motor and tranny from scratch. Picky little snot, aren't I?!?!?

Thanks again!!!!:D

Eric

[L8 APEX]

Just let me know what you want and let me worry about the rest:tu: Or we could talk in person. But posting back and fourth is not getting to the bottom of the topic.;)

[TXBLU]

Cool. You gonna be somewhere this weekend so I call and hash this stuff out?

[L8 APEX]

I will be at the shop in Duncanville Saturday. My phone # is on the vendor forum, banner, and my website.

[TXBLU]

I'll be callin'!!!

Thanks!

Eric