cams

[wanalightning]

I dont mean to sound like a dumba?? but I see quiet a few 5.o cams for sale on the nloc will these cams work in a first gen. are there performance gains and do you have to go to mass air flow?

[L8 APEX]

SixPipes, 02Bolt, 99Whitebeast know g1 cams best. To stay speed density you have to keep the cam mild. I also heard most MAF kits are hard to find and hard to make work. 5.0 cams, motorsport cams are interchangeable. You just have to know the firing order of the cam. Most aftermarket cams use the 351 firing order.

[wanalightning]

Thanks I want to convert over to mass air but but I didnt know if it was necessary with that cam.Is there any thing you can do to the speed density computer to get any more performance out of it besides a chip?:confused:

[L8 APEX]

You have to adjust the tune any major changes. I think there are some good products these days. It used to be the tweekr was the popular choice. You are starting with only 250hp and cast iron heads so there is not a lot of cheap power to be made. I always liked the Edelbrock power packages for the old V8's. They are matched intake, cam, heads and chip. You usually get another 50-65hp. Or course you have to do headers with that.

[wanalightning]

Well thanks Im tring to get all my ducks in a roll before I start buying parts there is still quite a bit I have to learn any info. helps. I have a bit of a shake in my trany when it shifts in to over drive any body have any ideas on what that may be?

[mustgofaster]

The 5.0 cam will bolt in, no tuning needed. you'll just need to get the spider, dogbones , lifters & different pushrods. I think that the pushrods are supposed to be 7.567" hardened rods, but I'd check before you spend the $$$. Also, don't forget to change the gear on your distributer... The stocker wont last long with that cam. Most people install the 5.0 cam 2-4* advanced, so not to lose any low end torque.

Comp Cams is supposed to have a good cam avail that is speed density compatible, but I don't remember which one right off the top of my head. If I remember right it is in the $260.00 range.

Depending on the miles on your truck, the cam swap might be a good time to replace those old valve springs.

I hope this helps,
Steve

[wanalightning]

Thanks for all the info.I almost hate to take any of my factory equipment off but would like to make a little more power and didnt really know what route to take I will look into the comp cam for sure.The speed density seems to be a thorn in my side.

[L8 APEX]

Are all blocks drilled for the spider? I thought it was the later blocks?

[mustgofaster]

Are all blocks drilled for the spider? I thought it was the later blocks?


Sorry, I forgot to mention that. Most of them are, but there are a few early 93's that dont. Checkthe block casting #.It is just above the starter. You should have an F4TE block. As long as you do, you are good.

[wanalightning]

I will check that,does it have to be drilled for the comp cam to or would I be ok to go that route if I dont have the right block for the 5.0 cam . You guys have a happy Thanksgiving .

[mustgofaster]

The comp cam should bolt in just the same as the 5.0 cam. If you don't have the F4TE block, then you'll have to either run a flat tappet cam, or a roller conversion with link-bar roller lifters.

If you want to stay speed density, the biggest thing you want to watch for with the cam is the Lobe Seperation. You must keep your LSA @ or above 114 degrees. This is because our speed density setup requires at least 17" of vacuum... any less & it won't run right, no matter how much you play with a Tweecer. So I'd say shop around, just watch that LSA.

The Comp Cams XFI is a pretty big hit with a lot of Gen1-ers. The 5.0 cam would be cheaper, but from what I've heard the XFI has a little more power. Wish I could give you first hand experience on which one is better, but my 5.0 cam is in the attic waiting to go in & no extra funds for the Comp Cam. Kinda thinking about giving the Comp Cam a try when I rebuild my engine though.

Earlier in the post, you mentioned chipping your truck. If that's something you want to do, I'd look into a Tweecer. You can custon tune it with a Tweecer, so it makes tuning for future mods easier. Myself, I plan on converting to OBDII when I rebuild my truck, to open up my choices for tuners, (SCT, Sniper, etc...) and for better fuel management.

Happy Thanksgiving!:beer:

[wanalightning]

What is the obdII Ive heard of that but not sure of what it is.Have you ever converted a speed density system to mass air I have been wanting to to that for quite a while now but Ive heard good and bad I have a 91 model F15O I've been working on for a while now I thought about using it as a guinea pig.

[mustgofaster]

What is the obdII Ive heard of that but not sure of what it is.Have you ever converted a speed density system to mass air I have been wanting to to that for quite a while now but Ive heard good and bad I have a 91 model F15O I've been working on for a while now I thought about using it as a guinea pig.

OBDII is the newer fuel injection system used by OEM's on newer cars & trucks. (<96' in most cases) It is more accurate in its fuel delivery, produces cleaner emissions, and because it is the current system in use by OEM's, there are a lot more tuners out there for it.
I have not personally done a conversion as of yet, but there is not that much to it, other than a lot of time invested. Basically, for our trucks, the best bet, (If you want to go the OBDII route, there are other choices... OBD is just my preference for what I want my truck to do) is to find a 96' F-250, or 350 with a 351 & an E40D tranny. Pull the processor & wiring harness, clean it up & make any nessesary repairs to the wiring, transplant it into the L, then tune it to the specs your truck calls for with a good tuner.
This is a time involved process, & some basic electrical knowlege is helpful, but the same is going to be true with pretty much any conversion, whether it be OBDII, FAST, a Mass Air kit, or any of the other dozen options.

Unless you are looking to go with a big cam, stroke your engine out, or go with high boost, I would just stick with the EEC IV & tune it via Tweecer. The reason why I plan on converting to OBDII, is I plan on stroking my engine to 393 cubes & that is a bit much for the EEC IV to handle.

[wanalightning]

So the EEC IV is what it has from the factory right? And if so can you tune the factory computer with the tweecer programmer? Sorry, like I said I hate to sound like a dumba?? these computers are kinda new for me.:eek:

[mustgofaster]

So the EEC IV is what it has from the factory right? And if so can you tune the factory computer with the tweecer programmer? Sorry, like I said I hate to sound like a dumba?? these computers are kinda new for me.:eek:

Don't worry, you don't sound like a dumba??. Everyone has to learn sometime... God knows I don't know all there is to know in this world.
Anyway, Yes, we have EEC IV, and you can tune it with a Tweecer. http://www.tweecer.com/
As long as you don't stroke it, or go with a wild cam, the Tweecer will get you where you want to go. SStock on NLOC is a great source for a base program after you've made a major mod. You can also tune for boost with the Tweecer, but if you are going for high levels of boost >14psi or so, I'd make the switch to something better.

[wanalightning]

Thats awesome I didn't know you could tune the factory system.Have you done any tuning with one of these tweecers?

[tiffo60]

Thats awesome I didn't know you could tune the factory system.Have you done any tuning with one of these tweecers?

I think thats what Thogg uses

[L8 APEX]

Hogg is running a different unit, I think it is piggy back and has change on the fly capability via the in cab controller.

[mustgofaster]

Thats awesome I didn't know you could tune the factory system.Have you done any tuning with one of these tweecers?

Only enough to make myself dangerous.

[wanalightning]

I was on the tweecer web site do you have to buy one specific to the first gen. lightning .

[wanalightning]

Little off the subject but what do you have to do to make 2nd gen. wheels fit on a 1st gen.

[mustgofaster]

I was on the tweecer web site do you have to buy one specific to the first gen. lightning .


Nope, but don't bother wit hthe RT. The RT only gives you datalogging, and our older processors don't support it. I would check your processor # & verify with Tweecer that it is suported though. I'm pretty confident that yours is, but I'd check before spending the $$$. I know for a fact that they support for all the Gen1's. Your truck is a 5.8 with an E40D?

Some good reading for you. http://fordfuelinjection.com/

[mustgofaster]

Little off the subject but what do you have to do to make 2nd gen. wheels fit on a 1st gen.

A good machine shop. Our lugs are 5.5 X 5 & thiers are slightly different, plus thiers are lug-centric & ours are hub-centric. (or the other way around.. I'm too tired to check) Anyway, a good wheel shop can do it. Personally, I'm dying to get some 02' rims under my truck... Love those Frankenstien rims!:tu:

[wanalightning]

Yal I think they look awesome with 2nd gen.wheels I have been watching a set on nloc.But I didn't know for sure what had to be done to make them work.thanks again for all the help

[wanalightning]

Sorry I have another stupid question though can I put a blastor msd coil on my factory ignition or is that to much I have ford racing plug wires and msd cap rotor.Don't want to burn or blow something up.THANKS AGAIN

[mustgofaster]

Yes you can use it... This is the one I've been using for the last 200,000 miles
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/msd-8227.jpg

[wanalightning]

Well thanks again for all the help you guys better hope I never get a gen 2 because those questions are endless.:bows

[charlie]

Thats awesome I didn't know you could tune the factory system.Have you done any tuning with one of these tweecers?

It's a chip. your just flashing a chip that is plugged into the bottom of the comp. And you can tune for the longer duration cams with the tweecer. Ask SStock.

Charlie