Alignment issue

[rickgig]

I searched and found plenty of threads but I want to know if y'all use the standard alignment spec's or what I found on another site defined as the "owner preferred" specs, which are:

Lightning Owner preferred:
LH Caster 6.7
RH Caster 7.2
LH Camber -0.5
RH Camber -0.5
LH Toe -0.05 (slight toe in)
RH Toe -0.05 (same)

Lightning specifications:
L.H. Caster: 6.9, +/- 1.0 Deg.
R.H. Caster: 7.4, +/- 1.0 Deg.
L.H. Camber: -0.5, +/- 0.7 Deg.
R.H. Camber: -0.5, +/- 0.7 Deg.
L.H. Toe: -0.05, +/- 0.15
R.H. Toe: -0.05, +/- 0.15

I just got my truck aligned but after 1,200 miles the inside of my front tire is toast.

Not worried about the tires since they need replacing anyways but this was excessive wear... far worse than what I was experiencing before the alignment.

Needless to say I had them use the "preferred" and not the Lightning specs...

The shop is going to redo the alignment tomorrow and I have a set of used tires with decent tread left so I don't have to worry about new tires getting toasted.

I replaced ball joints about two years ago and I am sure I need other parts to freshen things up with 160k on the truck... but to go from mild wear to serious wear in 1,200 miles is a little much.

What spec's do y'all use and any comments are appreciated...

[Mika]

I had almost -1.0 degree of camber and about -.05 toe(maybe closer to zero), and I had zero tire wear issues. I'd be willing to bet you got either a loose tie rod end or something else up front. Either that or the alignment rack was WAY off when you had your truck aligned.



Mika

[L8 APEX]

Check the idler arm.
I have seen a lot of bad OE lower joints at 40k or so.

I ran .9 neg camber and about a 1/16th tow in. Rotated every other oil change or 6k and had good wear.

[rickgig]

Check the idler arm.
I have seen a lot of bad OE lower joints at 40k or so.

I ran .9 neg camber and about a 1/16th tow in. Rotated every other oil change or 6k and had good wear.

I'm thinking the idler arm too but we'll see what they say this morning.

[jmlay]

From new I could tell the inside of the driver inside had wear. I had it aligned 2 times to the factory specs & it was still an issue. I lowered it with the FRPP/Goundforce 1/2 inch springs & shackles & the problem got worse, alignment was done at a respectable shop.

Rather than risk another set of tires I bit the bullet & bought a pr. of upper control arms that were longer. There were rather expensive but seem to have solved my alignment and wear issues, cheaper than another set of tires. I am sure I could have had some custom made but they ere more than likely have been more expensive.

Mike

[rickgig]

Where do you get the control arms from? I got a ton of miles on the truck and I plan on keeping it as my hot rod so upper control arms sounds like something I should consider.

I took it back to where I had the alignment done, they re-aligned it and told me to come back in two weeks after their new laser machine has been installed and they will check it all again.

They looked at everything and said everything is tight and good.

Still drives different... I feel it pulling to the left and then when I hit a rut it follows it. I think it's time for replacing some hardware and make things like new.

[jmlay]

When you lower the vehicle the lower arm becomes more horizontal. This pushes the bottom of the tire out. The stock upper arms are not long enough so the camber adjustment is maxed out & there is still too much negative camber causing abnormal tire wear.

You will need to call him to order. He will also want to know the current ride hight of the truck at the top of the wheel arches on all for corners. Each set is custom made so there is a bit of lead time. I am happy with mine or I would not be making a recommendation.

Also if the ball joint ever needs to be replaced it is an off the shelf Moog part.

http://www.woodbinemotorsports.com/

Mike

[dboat]

When you lower the vehicle the lower arm becomes more horizontal. This pushes the bottom of the tire out. The stock upper arms are not long enough so the camber adjustment is maxed out & there is still too much negative camber causing abnormal tire wear.

You will need to call him to order. He will also want to know the current ride hight of the truck at the top of the wheel arches on all for corners. Each set is custom made so there is a bit of lead time. I am happy with mine or I would not be making a recommendation.

Also if the ball joint ever needs to be replaced it is an off the shelf Moog part.

http://www.woodbinemotorsports.com/

Mike

Mike, sounds interesting.. but there isnt anything on his site for this, do you have anything you can post up pictures or other info?

Dana

[jmlay]

Dana,

I do not, had some PDF's but lost them with my hard drive but will look to see if I had them stashed elsewhere. They are made to a custom length based on the ride hight your vehicle & allow for more caster. Have nylon bushings for the mount & use Moog "Problem Solver" ball joint. He also makes lowers that are lighter than stock but no real advantage other than that, for me at least.

Edit: Here is the info I was looking for:

http://www.onthegroundperformance.com/rackkit.html

Thanks,
Mike

[dboat]

Dana,

I do not, had some PDF's but lost them with my hard drive but will look to see if I had them stashed elsewhere. They are made to a custom length based on the ride hight your vehicle & allow for more caster. Have nylon bushings for the mount & use Moog "Problem Solver" ball joint. He also makes lowers that are lighter than stock but no real advantage other than that, for me at least.

Edit: Here is the info I was looking for:

http://www.onthegroundperformance.com/rackkit.html

Thanks,
Mike

Mike, you going for the whole steering rack and all? I was thinking it wouldnt be all that hardware but just a few pieces..

Dana

[rickgig]

I still have the article from Ford Performance Trucks that talks about the entire modification if anyone wants it (scanned version).

Pretty good article and with my front end wondering all over the place I'm thinking this could be the ticket.

Question is how good would it be for daily use?

[jmlay]

Nope, I just went with the uppers to resolve the lack of adjustment of camber.

The -camber would def cause the truck to wander on an uneven road surface, that along with the wide tires. Replacing the control arms will only address the busings & joints it contains as well as allow you to adjust out some of the - camber. If there are ware items that need to be replaced that must be done also to have a stable steering system.

Mike