Alternator question.

[nacklas]

Is the alternator in the L the same as in a regular f150? What size amp is the one in the L?

[tucamote]

I belive its a 130Amp

[dboat]

I was talking with someone this weekend about this very issue.. does someone know for sure? with all the electric stuff I have on my truck now, it was suggested that I might need to upgrade my alt to a higher amp model..

Dana

[Silver_2000]

http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-2-lightnings/200175-high-amp-altenator-were-buy.html

http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-2-lightnings/200569-alternator.html

http://www.nloc.net/vbforum/gen-2-lightnings/201326-alternator.html

[dboat]

I didnt see it on JLP's website so I dropped them an email.. lets see if they still sell them.

Dana

[mustgofaster]

I didnt see it on JLP's website so I dropped them an email.. lets see if they still sell them.

Dana

You might want to try Alterstart in Dallas.
http://storesense1.mysuperpageshosting.com/HS13162/StoreFront.bok
They specialize in high output alternators & they've got the best prices I've seen. I put one of their 200A alt on my Gen1 about 6 years ago... No issues as of yet.
Just a side note... If you upgrade your alt, make sure you upgrade your charge wire from the alt, or you may have a fire hazard. I'd be happy to help, if you need/want it.

Steve

[dboat]

You might want to try Alterstart in Dallas.
http://storesense1.mysuperpageshosting.com/HS13162/StoreFront.bok
They specialize in high output alternators & they've got the best prices I've seen. I put one of their 200A alt on my Gen1 about 6 years ago... No issues as of yet.
Just a side note... If you upgrade your alt, make sure you upgrade your charge wire from the alt, or you may have a fire hazard. I'd be happy to help, if you need/want it.

Steve

Steve, thanks for the post.. I just might have to go that route..

Dana

[SILVER2000SVT]

A key characterisic to look out for in a higher amp alternator is the current delivered at idle speed which is often much lower than the maximum current that is advertised. More often than not the builder will sacrafice the power delivered at an idle to give you that higher top end rating. What a lot of people don't realize is that this effectively reduces the capability of your electrical system when operating at an idle compared to the stock setup.

Any time the load exceeds the capability of the electrical system (alternator + battery capacity) you are going to smoke something whether it is your alternator, electronics, ECU, etc...even if it's only for a few seconds.

Some manufacturers will compensate for this by giving you a smaller pulley on your new hi-amp alternator to spin it faster. This works fine if you don't run your engine at high RPM's. If you do race a lot etc you end up spinning the bearings out of your new alternator.

I learned a lot of this the hard way from my own personal experiences.
What I typically look for in an upgraded alternator is the "hot" rating at idle speed, improved bearings, cooling, and no shiny parts because they hold in heat. Unfortunately they are typically "cold" rated at nominal running speed (2000+ RPM engine speed).

[dboat]

Jason, did you upgrade your alt? if so, what did you go with?

Dana

[SILVER2000SVT]

Jason, did you upgrade your alt? if so, what did you go with?

Dana

No, Not in the Lightning. This is back in my younger years. One particular summer I went through 13 alternator repairs/replacements for mostly the reasons listed above. Went back to a stock one with an upgraded battery that lasted for years until I sold the car. These were some hard lessons to learn, especially when the alternator guys don't understand the trade-offs when they "improve" the alternator.

Since then I've found these guys which seem to be more competent. They do a lot of Ford alternators too:
http://ohiogen.com/

[mustgofaster]

A key characterisic to look out for in a higher amp alternator is the current delivered at idle speed which is often much lower than the maximum current that is advertised. More often than not the builder will sacrafice the power delivered at an idle to give you that higher top end rating. What a lot of people don't realize is that this effectively reduces the capability of your electrical system when operating at an idle compared to the stock setup.

Any time the load exceeds the capability of the electrical system (alternator + battery capacity) you are going to smoke something whether it is your alternator, electronics, ECU, etc...even if it's only for a few seconds.

Some manufacturers will compensate for this by giving you a smaller pulley on your new hi-amp alternator to spin it faster. This works fine if you don't run your engine at high RPM's. If you do race a lot etc you end up spinning the bearings out of your new alternator.

I learned a lot of this the hard way from my own personal experiences.
What I typically look for in an upgraded alternator is the "hot" rating at idle speed, improved bearings, cooling, and no shiny parts because they hold in heat. Unfortunately they are typically "cold" rated at nominal running speed (2000+ RPM engine speed).

He is right about this & definitely do watch for the idle Amperage rating.
The one I put on my truck is 200A @ 2000 RPM & 100A @ idle (800 RPM). That is with a stock size pulley. my stocker was a whopping 85A @ 2000 RPM, so upping to 100 @ idle was definitely an improvement.

[dboat]

Did a quick internet search.. I dont know about their products but if you scroll to the bottom of the page.. at least they have the best models I have seen on alternator's company internet page..

Dana

http://www.highoutputalternator.com/index.htm