PDA

View Full Version : front brake work



Mark DeNeault
02-04-2011, 07:17 PM
Hey guys,
Just a general question. (I think) I still have my two problems and have not done to much lately with them as money is short. Today I had some front brake work done, nothing major, just needed to be done. Here is my question. The parts that were used in this repair were purchased from the ford dealership. When my mechanic gave him the vin #, (parts mgr.) the vin came up as a Ford f150 XL. The parts were only clips for the brake pads and some seals I think. How is my 04 L. listed as a XL according to the dealerships computer? Is it because it is an 04 and they used two body styles that year? Any info is appreciated.
Thanks Mark

99WhiteBeast
02-04-2011, 10:38 PM
The 04 was technically the new year for the new body style of the F150. I believe the 04 Lightning model is listed as the 'Heritage' model.

The brakes are the same as the F250's if I remember correctly.

Mark DeNeault
02-05-2011, 07:28 PM
The engine check light came back on today after just putting $500.+ into it last month for the same check light deal. It goes to my mechanic to see what the codes says and to hopefully fix the problem. Then it goes up for sale as I cannot keep dropping this kind of money into the truck. Yes, I know that it is a performance vehicle, but it is still a vehicle that anyone could buy from the dealership, and is not an all out race vehicle that somebody put together. I am just fed up with the whole deal. If I wanted a race car, or something somebody modified, I would have bought that type of vehicle, and would have planned to put money into it and... probably not as much as I have put in to the truck so far($1300.), and the problems are not solved. Anyone interested in an 04 L, let me know.
Mark.

dboat
02-05-2011, 08:10 PM
sorry to hear this..

Beaudee
02-06-2011, 12:38 AM
The engine check light came back on today after just putting $500.+ into it last month for the same check light deal. It goes to my mechanic to see what the codes says and to hopefully fix the problem. Then it goes up for sale as I cannot keep dropping this kind of money into the truck. Yes, I know that it is a performance vehicle, but it is still a vehicle that anyone could buy from the dealership, and is not an all out race vehicle that somebody put together. I am just fed up with the whole deal. If I wanted a race car, or something somebody modified, I would have bought that type of vehicle, and would have planned to put money into it and... probably not as much as I have put in to the truck so far($1300.), and the problems are not solved. Anyone interested in an 04 L, let me know.
Mark.

Sounds like you need a better mechanic.A fault code should easily be repaired/recognized.You have a few bugs,but the Lightning is an awsome reliable rugged truck that humiliates most sport cars out their.Stick it out:tu:The worst parts of a L. is gas sucken,tire eaten,ticket gettin cop magnet.Good luck

mustgofaster
02-06-2011, 08:50 AM
Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble. I'm with Beu... Sounds like its time for a new mechanic. Lightnings are really very reliable trucks. I wish you were closer. I'd say bring it over to the house, help me convince my wife to go out for the day & we'd knock it out.

Mark #2
02-06-2011, 04:24 PM
Agree with the above posts, do you know what is in your computer? I had a heck of a time figuring out lean codes until I got a SCT/re-flash, the issue was in the chip when we switched to alcohol fuels.

Mark DeNeault
02-06-2011, 06:17 PM
It really is not the mechanic, it is the dealership. They were the ones who read the codes the last time the check light came on and told me what was needed to fix it. It was going to cost me so opted to have my mechanic do the work.
The dealership in town has never sold SVT vehicles, period. The truck goes to my mechanic tomorrow to read the codes and then I will go from there. I just cannot afford to have two payment, loan and fix it payments. Yes, a cool truck, fast, but at this point not fun to drive. I honestly appreciate all the help from this site but will just have to see what comes up tomorrow.
Thanks Mark.

Moonshine
02-06-2011, 08:54 PM
Good luck with your mechanic tomorrow. I sympathize with the unwillingness to deal with a constant headache. But as for the basic durability of these trucks, I just located my '00 Gen II that I sold in 2005. It's now with it's 5th owner and still running strong at 187k miles.

L8 APEX
02-07-2011, 07:37 AM
In 99 they were built on the XL base truck. In 2000-up they started with an XLT. The brakes are the 7700gvwr spec which is heavy half or Expedition, NASCAR series size.

The dealer has two set of pads OEM and Motorcraft. OEM's are better.

Mark DeNeault
02-07-2011, 07:39 PM
I had the codes read today with my mechanic along with a fuel filter change. The codes that came up were po171 & po174. Theses codes are lean on both engine banks. I had them clear the codes after the filter change and the next time the engine check light comes on, we will start the process of elimination going down the code ladder. What ever it is, is something that affects both banks so I would think that it would eliminate OX sensors(unless more than one are bad) and a few other that there are multiples of, at least to my way of thinking. These codes that came up have a jillion fixes. Right now it all about the money and the cost of fixing.
M.

Mark #2
02-07-2011, 08:09 PM
I had the codes read today with my mechanic along with a fuel filter change. The codes that came up were po171 & po174. Theses codes are lean on both engine banks. I had them clear the codes after the filter change and the next time the engine check light comes on, we will start the process of elimination going down the code ladder. What ever it is, is something that affects both banks so I would think that it would eliminate OX sensors(unless more than one are bad) and a few other that there are multiples of, at least to my way of thinking. These codes that came up have a jillion fixes. Right now it all about the money and the cost of fixing.
M.
I had the same codes and it was the tune in the computer. I too replaced a lot of parts before figuring it out. If it is not that, then you may have an intake leak after the MAF, as I doubt you would develop exhaust leaks on both sides.
If you post every mod on your truck I might be able to help more.

mustgofaster
02-07-2011, 09:37 PM
Like Mark said... I'd look very carefully for a vacuum leak. If you are having a hard time finding the vac leak, a redneck trick that I do to hunt down vacuum leaks is to use a propane torch (NOT LIT); with a trickle of propane emitting from the nozzle. Slowly & methodically go over the engine, specifically wherever a vacuum line runs or connects, as well as all of the intake tubing after the MAF. If your idle changes, you know you are in the area & where to look.
Steve

L8 APEX
02-07-2011, 09:40 PM
Those the most common codes in all of Ford history. If you have an aftermarket filter you may clean the MAF sensor with a can of MAF cleaner spray. Other common causes are PCV valves that leak by, hoses falling out of the intake elbow or rotted intake lines.

Aftermarket can also be a tune with too little fuel down low causing the computer to add more than 20% or so to reach stoich.

L8 APEX
02-07-2011, 09:50 PM
1

Mark DeNeault
02-08-2011, 05:50 PM
The truck is stock except the air intake, and exhaust system(as far as I know). The exhaust system is after the cats and ox sensors so nothing was touched, and everything remains in the same place as the stock exhaust. My mechanics shop started out as a muffler business but has progressed to full service so he knows mufflers etc. I checked and tightened all the fittings on the aftermarket intake, and made sure everything was fitted properly and where it is supposed to be. The mass air sensor is less than a month old and so is the EGR valve as they were put on when the check engine light came on the first time. Just got back from town and no light so far and no hesitation (hiccup) in the last 4 days. I have been really watching the way my foot is on the gas pedal and making sure it is in the middle of the pedal. Thanks for all the feed back.
Mark.

Beaudee
02-09-2011, 09:54 PM
Sucken air or not tuned right??See if you have someone who can check your tune,since you bought it from? be well worth haven someone check out the tune who knows what there doing.Dont get frustrated,stick it out good luck Markus:tuOne thing you need to remember is some of the L. out there where pumped up race vehichles,then de-modded and sold LOL.Unless you you new who had it before you,check the tune.As long as a rod not sticken through the block or mass quanities of oil/cooling fluid dissapearing you should be O.K. LOL..Check tune