Questions - What size is the in-line fuse for an E-Fan? And Intercooler coolant?

[tliss]

It's been a long time since I needed to replace this but my truck melted the inline fuse for my e-fan and decided to throw all kinds of codes for an overheat condition in the motor including a cylinder head overheat condition and a supercharger overboost condition with a misfire. I just had it running in the driveway and it all of the sudden surged and almost stalled on me...then it ran fine.

In any case, I know that I need to replace this inline fuse so my e-fan will come on...since I have not paid attention to this in a very long time, and the fuse is a nice fried mess, does anyone know what size fuse I need to put on this thing? Also, I guess I should ask if there is anything else I should be looking for with these codes that the computer is throwing. Here is the list of codes:

P0234 - Supercharger overboost
P0217 - Engine Overheat - low coolant level (coolant level is normal)
P1260 - Anti-theft system violation (huh??)
P1285 - Cylinder head over temp
P1299 - Cylinder head over temp - low coolant level
P0243 - Turbo/Supercharger wastegate solenoid (again, huh?)

Any recommendations would be appreciated. My intentions are to flush and change out the coolant in the radiator, change the thermostat, probably change the supercharger coolant as well, and replace that inline fuse and connector.

So the next question is what type of coolant should be used for the intercooler? I am going to research further, but I vaguely remember that it needs to be a different consistency than the engine coolant, but don't recall all of the details.

Thanks for any help!

Tom

[Sixpipes]

It's been a long time since I needed to replace this but my truck melted the inline fuse for my e-fan and decided to throw all kinds of codes for an overheat condition in the motor including a cylinder head overheat condition and a supercharger overboost condition with a misfire. I just had it running in the driveway and it all of the sudden surged and almost stalled on me...then it ran fine.

In any case, I know that I need to replace this inline fuse so my e-fan will come on...since I have not paid attention to this in a very long time, and the fuse is a nice fried mess, does anyone know what size fuse I need to put on this thing? Also, I guess I should ask if there is anything else I should be looking for with these codes that the computer is throwing. Here is the list of codes:

P0234 - Supercharger overboost
P0217 - Engine Overheat - low coolant level (coolant level is normal)
P1260 - Anti-theft system violation (huh??)
P1285 - Cylinder head over temp
P1299 - Cylinder head over temp - low coolant level
P0243 - Turbo/Supercharger wastegate solenoid (again, huh?)

Any recommendations would be appreciated. My intentions are to flush and change out the coolant in the radiator, change the thermostat, probably change the supercharger coolant as well, and replace that inline fuse and connector.

So the next question is what type of coolant should be used for the intercooler? I am going to research further, but I vaguely remember that it needs to be a different consistency than the engine coolant, but don't recall all of the details.

Thanks for any help!

Tom

Sup. That's a lot of codes.... :)

I would replace the fuse and connector since it is aftermarket anyway Just take the old one to O'Reilly's. The problem with letting the truck sit a while is discovering what actually the current problem is. I would erase all the codes after you change out the coolant and see which ones come back. I have a scanner if you need one.

A far as coolant goes, I use Prestone and use the same stuff in the intercooler, but full strength.


On another subject...

Does anyone else have trouble typing responses on this forum? It doesn't always record all my key strokes and I don't think It is my keyboard.

Here is an example of hat I am talking aot (about).

[tliss]

Sup. That's a lot of codes.... :)

I would replace the fuse and connector since it is aftermarket anyway Just take the old one to O'Reilly's. The problem with letting the truck sit a while is discovering what actually the current problem is. I would erase all the codes after you change out the coolant and see which ones come back. I have a scanner if you need one.

A far as coolant goes, I use Prestone and use the same stuff in the intercooler, but full strength.


On another subject...

Does anyone else have trouble typing responses on this forum? It doesn't always record all my key strokes and I don't think It is my keyboard.

Here is an example of hat I am talking aot (about).

I'll be swapping all of the coolant and flush everything this weekend...thanks for the validation. I'm also going to replace the thermostat and do some other general maintenance to hopefully bring it back to life without codes.

I am going to replace the fuse and connector since it melted the old one. It's just a burned up mess, so the guys at O-Reilly's will probably look like the guys at Vato Zone when I ask them what I need. I have the connector and I have the fuses...I just don't know what size fuse I need to put on it. I'm assuming I need a 20 amp, but want to be sure before I stick one in there and burn it up again.

Tom

[dboat]

Tom, I think my old harness had a 40 amp relay in it.


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[dboat]

Those e fans use a lot of juice.


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[tliss]

Those e fans use a lot of juice.


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OK...it's not the relay I need....on my electric harness there is an additional fuse on the main power line (I think)...but if the relay is pulling 40 I'll put a 40 amp fuse on it...that should cover it. Thanks!

Tom

[L8 APEX]

JDM uses two post circuit breakers on his efan kits. I don't remember LFP fans having any fuse links at all. The Ford fan can draw 30 amps on low and 40 amps on high. I bypassed my JDM circuit breaker one summer when the under hood heat started clicking open and closed. A new harness may be in order if too much is melted. The circuit breakers are a little better than fuses and most auto reset. I would do at least a 40 amp or just wire it straight. JDM ran a 40 amp circuit breaker on the low speed circuit and just a 40 amp toggle switch on the high speed track switch.
For IC fluid I use a antifreeze gauge and set it to about zero degrees protection. 50/50 is plenty strong and is not corrosive. Straight anti freeze is corrosive to certain metals. It is also thick as syrup and does not transfer heat as well as water does. Back in the racing days we use to run water and Redline Wetter or Royal Purple Ice additive in the IC systems.