NOTICE! For all whose motor cuts off.

[microsuck]

Okay, we all know how my truck sucks cause the motor will just shut off sometimes under WOT. I found out there is a good number of other L's out there that do too. Its not the motor, its the blower. I HAVE FOUND OUT WHY AND FIXED IT! its not the chip or anything (asuming you cleaned it right). It is the boost actuator. I have been experimenting with mine for the past month and I have been able to change my hp in ranges from 330 to 396 on the dyno by only touching the BA. Please note, you are not adding extra hp, you are just changing the way the boost is built. The more you lift the reg off the stop, the slower it will build and hold boost. and vice versa. I was able to adjust it to make as low as 9psi or as high as 14psi @ WOT (all with 6# pulley). You can fix your truck from dieing by minor adjustments to this reg. You really need a good boost gauge to try and tune this and I recommend a dyno session afterwards cause you will need to adj your AFR.
Andrew

[blueoval01]

Andrew, did you keep a log of Pics to document this?:confused:
It would be a valueable "How-To" to add this to Dougs Website.

[microsuck]

Andrew, did you keep a log of Pics to document this?:confused:
It would be a valueable "How-To" to add this to Dougs Website.no, as usual. I am so scatterbrained no one would understand what I am talking about anyways. its not something that you "just do" and you are fixed. like herbs washers for the clunk. its something that takes lots of playing with. there isnt really a process. just play with it till it suits you. I like lots of boost so I have mine set to build VERY fast. some may not want that and want to save gas, or just like having it stay low untill you really get up on it. kind of wish I had some pics though.
Andrew

[ken cryder]

your right andrew . i put a new twist on your w/a inj and now running it threw a shark nozzle with nitrous as the atomizer . need to get more jets so i can fine tune it . but it does work . running 7.8s this weekend in the heat of the day on pump gas with a 75 shot .


ken

[microsuck]

your right andrew . i put a new twist on your w/a inj and now running it threw a shark nozzle with nitrous as the atomizer . need to get more jets so i can fine tune it . but it does work . running 7.8s this weekend in the heat of the day on pump gas with a 75 shot .


kenhaha, thats funny. I incorporated mine into my shark nozzle as well. I also have a dual port injection, variable boost system you might want to draw from. Also, I made some VERY neccessary improvments to your cool box setup and I am sure you will want to do the same. we need to hook up sometime.
Andrew

[03LightningRocks]

haha, thats funny. I incorporated mine into my shark nozzle as well. I also have a dual port injection, variable boost system you might want to draw from. Also, I made some VERY neccessary improvments to your cool box setup and I am sure you will want to do the same. we need to hook up sometime.
AndrewMy gosh Andrew, how much H.P. and Torque are you making with that truck????

It looks like you have been a busy hot rodder since I last saw you. I have been considering the W/A injection for my truck but did not even know where to start. I sure would like to pick your brain about the upgrades you have done to your ride.

You should come out to Ennis again before the track closes for the season. Hope to see you out there.

Rocks:beer:

[ken cryder]

haha, thats funny. I incorporated mine into my shark nozzle as well. I also have a dual port injection, variable boost system you might want to draw from. Also, I made some VERY neccessary improvments to your cool box setup and I am sure you will want to do the same. we need to hook up sometime.
Andrew
your right we do need to hook up . what are you pushing now with the nitrous at the rear wheels . haven't dnynoed mine in abouts seven months . last reading 480 & 603 on the 75 shot . you also need to check out the ram air i have come up with . want better gas milage on the high way ?


ken

[microsuck]

My gosh Andrew, how much H.P. and Torque are you making with that truck????

It looks like you have been a busy hot rodder since I last saw you. I have been considering the W/A injection for my truck but did not even know where to start. I sure would like to pick your brain about the upgrades you have done to your ride.

You should come out to Ennis again before the track closes for the season. Hope to see you out there.

Rocks:beer:last dyno was 455/624 I will be breaking the 500/700 range on thrusday when I dyno with my new programs. I am afraid to race it. yeah, i have changed alot of stuff. maybe i will get a built motor for my birthday......:D (which is today, hint, hint)
Andrew

[ken cryder]

can't wait to see new numbers .:tu:



ken

[noelvm]

I posted this on our board. I have a maybe similar problem but I am not sure it is the same. It has previously only occured with the JDM chip; however, last Friday night it occured with my PSP chip.

(from our board)
"Well, I don't agree with his term "shutting down. My engine has never "shut down". "Shuting down" translates to me that what occurs is like turning off the key. Mine does not do that. It continues to run. It just runs like you had a governor on it and the boost deactivated. Also the tach goes to zero and there are dashed lines across the odometer. I'm not sure that these are the same problems as I have. I have no idea what my problem is nor does Jim.

noelvm

[Silver_2000]

I posted this on our board. I have a maybe similar problem but I am not sure it is the same. It has previously only occured with the JDM chip; however, last Friday night it occured with my PSP chip.

(from our board)
"Well, I don't agree with his term "shutting down. My engine has never "shut down". "Shuting down" translates to me that what occurs is like turning off the key. Mine does not do that. It continues to run. It just runs like you had a governor on it and the boost deactivated. Also the tach goes to zero and there are dashed lines across the odometer. I'm not sure that these are the same problems as I have. I have no idea what my problem is nor does Jim.

noelvm
Noel

Your problem sounds more like a short in the PCM or its wiring - Especially if the Odo goes to dashed lines....

Doug

[microsuck]

I posted this on our board. I have a maybe similar problem but I am not sure it is the same. It has previously only occured with the JDM chip; however, last Friday night it occured with my PSP chip.

(from our board)
"Well, I don't agree with his term "shutting down. My engine has never "shut down". "Shuting down" translates to me that what occurs is like turning off the key. Mine does not do that. It continues to run. It just runs like you had a governor on it and the boost deactivated. Also the tach goes to zero and there are dashed lines across the odometer. I'm not sure that these are the same problems as I have. I have no idea what my problem is nor does Jim.

noelvmhis problem is IDENTICAL to mine. I dont know if that helps at all, but mine was doing that word for word. And I thought the same thing that doug did, but I beat the "electrical problem" horse to death before I finally tried something else. Well, what can i say, some things just cant be explained.
Andrew

[microsuck]

his problem is IDENTICAL to mine. I dont know if that helps at all, but mine was doing that word for word. And I thought the same thing that doug did, but I beat the "electrical problem" horse to death before I finally tried something else. Well, what can i say, some things just cant be explained.
Andrewand dont expect anyone else to know. It apears to be less than 1% of trucks that do it.

[Silver_2000]

Maybe the screwed up boost controller is forcing the truck in to fail safe or self preservation mode or something ....

Doug

[microsuck]

Maybe the screwed up boost controller is forcing the truck in to fail safe or self preservation mode or something ....

Dougthats my guess. because the problem never stays after you re-toggle the key, like a loose chip can sometimes do. a recycle ALWAYS fixes it. I even got to the point where I would be racing, it would die, I threw it in N, turned it off, turned it back on, threw it in D, punched it, and still smoked most cars. I am pleased I dont have to deal with that now:burnout:
Andrew

[noelvm]

This is happening to one other L here, Steve Stineles.
It comes off the line fine but when it shifts to 2nd gear everything I have mentioned happens. When I get to the return road and am idling back to the ticket box, the tach will come back on and the odometer will start again and it goes back to the pit normally. The next pass is always fine. It has never happened two passes in a row, but it has happened two passes in one night.

noelvm

[microsuck]

This is happening to one other L here, Steve Stineles.
It comes off the line fine but when it shifts to 2nd gear everything I have mentioned happens. When I get to the return road and am idling back to the ticket box, the tach will come back on and the odometer will start again and it goes back to the pit normally. The next pass is always fine. It has never happened two passes in a row, but it has happened two passes in one night.

noelvmonce again, word for word. let me know if you want me to fix it for you.
Andrew

[noelvm]

Well I think my problem is finally solved. Went to the track last Saturday and I still ran in mama mode and pump gas but the truck ran great and very consistant. On three passes where the temp was steady at 73 and the humidity at 83 the truck ran three 8.27s in a row. I made ten passes without incident. No laydown, no dashed lines, no problemo.

In fact, just driving to the track the truck felt like it was brand new. No vibrations, no shuttering, just smooth cruise.

ANSWER TO THE PROBLEM I put in "new" fuel pumps. They weren't actually new. They have 40K on them but mine had over 100k. Evidently one or both was not up to snuff and the pcm would read low pressure and go into some kind of "safe mode". Explains two burnt plugs I have had over the last six months.

This truck may run another 100,000 miles. :D:D:D:D:D:D

noelvm

[Silver_2000]

Noel Thanks for taking the timie to come and post this - We appreciate it... Good info ...

I would love to know the background of how the PCM reacts to lack of fuel pressure. Looks like it goes into some limp mode. Would love to see if that is documented some where -

[microsuck]

Well I think my problem is finally solved. Went to the track last Saturday and I still ran in mama mode and pump gas but the truck ran great and very consistant. On three passes where the temp was steady at 73 and the humidity at 83 the truck ran three 8.27s in a row. I made ten passes without incident. No laydown, no dashed lines, no problemo.

In fact, just driving to the track the truck felt like it was brand new. No vibrations, no shuttering, just smooth cruise.

ANSWER TO THE PROBLEM I put in "new" fuel pumps. They weren't actually new. They have 40K on them but mine had over 100k. Evidently one or both was not up to snuff and the pcm would read low pressure and go into some kind of "safe mode". Explains two burnt plugs I have had over the last six months.

This truck may run another 100,000 miles. :D:D:D:D:D:D

noelvmwell, that unfortunately wasnt my issue. mine have only 27k miles on them and my fuel pressure gauge shows over 50psi under WOT. but I am really happy yours are fixed now. feels good dosent it.
Andrew

[noelvm]

It appears to me that the pcm has a range of parameters it reads and it things go outside these parameters, it shuts down chips, the pcm advanced modes and goes into a "limp mode to protect the engine, all the while not throwing any codes to give you a clue.

Seems the least it could do would be to throw a code that says, "Warning Will Robinson, Danger, Danger, an unsafe condition has been detected and I have put your engine in "Safety Mode." Danger Will Robinson, Danger."

Then spit out a string of whatevers that exceeded the default settings and caused it to shut down. :D:D:D

noelvm

[Sixpipes]

I had problems with spark blowout under load. Usually, it happened around a shift point (up or down) or full boost during launch. I pulled the IT-20s and found they were gapped at anywhere from .038 to .042. Put in TR-6s gapped at .037 and have had no problems since. I experienced this running with a chip and without a chip. It's safe to say that a glitch in the fuel or spark can potentially produce the same result. Mine was definitely spark related. :cool:

[noelvm]

I was running the tr-6s when I had all my problems gapped at .40-42 but I'm only running a 4lb lower. I never had any problems until evidently the fuel pressure went in the toliet. I am currently running the Densos which ran fine last weekend. I made 10 passes.

noelvm

[Sixpipes]

Did you still gap the Densos at .040-.042? I think I probably did a poor job of gapping my IT-20s when I installed them. I'm only running a 2# lower and 2# upper. :cool:

[03LightningRocks]

Did you still gap the Densos at .040-.042? I think I probably did a poor job of gapping my IT-20s when I installed them. I'm only running a 2# lower and 2# upper. :cool:

I have my IT22's gapped at .040 and it seems to be doing well. That's with 8lbs over boost!!!!!!

I did this two weeks ago. The truck picked up about 1 mph on trap speed in the quarter. I know it's not alot, but it is going to help me see 11's at Hallsville.

No blow out yet....I'm keeping my fingers crossed. It must be the plasma booster:eek2: . You know....multiple after sparks and all.


Rocks:tu:

[dboat]

No blow out yet....I'm keeping my fingers crossed. It must be the plasma booster:eek2: . You know....multiple after sparks and all.


Rocks:tu:[/QUOTE]
uhh yeah..:rolleyes:

:bs :vomit:

Dana

[noelvm]

We gapped the densos at 40. I might gap them closer if I was running more boost. They are sure a lot smoother than the trs and those who have used them say they last a lot longer. I was getting 15K out of the TRs. I might have gotton more if my fuel had been right, like 20K.


noelvm

[noelvm]

Did you still gap the Densos at .040-.042? I think I probably did a poor job of gapping my IT-20s when I installed them. I'm only running a 2# lower and 2# upper. :cool:
I think you are running too cold a plug. Most of us here are running the 22s unless we are running more than 6 lbs of extra boost. 40-44 always worked fine for me on the tr-6s with 4 lbs of extra boost. Andre said with 6+ you need to drop the gap down to around 37 and maybe run the 20s. The 22s are working great so far.

noelvm

[microsuck]

I think you are running too cold a plug. Most of us here are running the 22s unless we are running more than 6 lbs of extra boost. 40-44 always worked fine for me on the tr-6s with 4 lbs of extra boost. Andre said with 6+ you need to drop the gap down to around 37 and maybe run the 20s. The 22s are working great so far.

noelvmyou got it backwards. the larger the number behind the "it" the colder it is. he should run 22s or 24s. I have 24s. 20s are for stock trucks.
Andrew

[noelvm]

you got it backwards. the larger the number behind the "it" the colder it is. he should run 22s or 24s. I have 24s. 20s are for stock trucks.
Andrew
Thanks, I got mine from Andre and just put in what he told me to. Sorry for the bad info. :D

noelvm

[noelvm]

Well, truck failed at the last race of the year. SOS, launched hard then no tach, dashed lines odometer, and no passing gear. Well pulled coded on Monday and got one. P0722-OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR NO SIGNAL.

Near as I can tell this is the speed sensor on the transmission tail housing and not the one on the rear end. Whether this is my problem, I'm not sure but it may be making the truck go into a fail safe mode. I gonna run it for a few days and see if it throws the code again or whether it only does it at the line when I am up on the stall.

Steve was having some trouble with his TC and got a code and replaced this sensor and it fixed his problems which were similar to mine.

noelvm

[microsuck]

Well, truck failed at the last race of the year. SOS, launched hard then no tach, dashed lines odometer, and no passing gear. Well pulled coded on Monday and got one. P0722-OUTPUT SPEED SENSOR NO SIGNAL.

Near as I can tell this is the speed sensor on the transmission tail housing and not the one on the rear end. Whether this is my problem, I'm not sure but it may be making the truck go into a fail safe mode. I gonna run it for a few days and see if it throws the code again or whether it only does it at the line when I am up on the stall.

Steve was having some trouble with his TC and got a code and replaced this sensor and it fixed his problems which were similar to mine.

noelvmwell, i definately agree that the trucks that do that are swtiching into "failsafe mode" but I think there are alot of different reasons. so we each have to find ours.:(