Questions about my truck

[scott015]

hey guys, iv mentioned this before... but I just bought a 2000 LIghtning last week. Anyway, its used and does have some miles... has 66k miles... and it does have some mods... so I think the $16,500 price was a bargin...

anyway, i get the truck on Wed (12th) and first thing I wanted to do was to make sure everything is up and running good... i wanna make sure that she last a long time...

anyway, here is a list of things the previous owner did to it

PSP 4lb lower pully
PSP chip
johnny lightning dual ram air
90 mass air
rancho bars
autometer guages trans, boost, air/fuel
clear side markers
billet grills
dual flowmaster 40 series cat back with 3 1/2in stainless tips
IT20 plugs


he has the PSP chip made with all these mods, so it should be tuned pretty good as of now....

but since im new to this whole sorta thing, i dont know much.... are any of these mods dangerous to the truck (ie the pully???)

bascially this is a daily driver and NOT gonna be a racer... not saying i wont ever take it to the track or wont ever street race it.... but thats not the main purpose of it..

anyway, what should i do right now to make sure shes in good condition? fluid changes, change plugs, get reburned? what

[andy_cain]

Only two things you should do:
1) Call Terry and have him check it out for ya
2) Drive it and enjoy :D
Congrats on your purchase :tu:
What color?

[scott015]

Congrats on your purchase :tu:
What color?


there is only one option here.... BLACK

[scott015]

since i dont have the truck yet until mid next week, i dont have many pics... but here are a few


http://www.f150online.com/galleries/mygallery.cfm?gnum=3372

[andy_cain]

Great color choice...black is the fastest ya know :beer:
Nice looking truck and familly. :D

[cpeapea]

everyone knows black is the best...lol

[PoorSvtman]

everyone knows black is the best...lol

Cant argue with that. But black can be a pain in the a$$ to keep clean!

[03'svtlight]

Only two things you should do:
1) Call Terry and have him check it out for ya
2) Drive it and enjoy :D
Congrats on your purchase :tu:
What color?
yeah, let Terry check it out....... Also dont you never ever never ever mention those flowmasters on your truck again. You can get tied up and dumped in the trash can over that..... :tongue: shiiiiiiiiiiiishhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!! :tu: Thats like cussin' in church....... :nono:

[microsuck]

everyone knows black is the best...lolditto
as for things to do.......... go to the dyno, make sure it has a safe AFR and then leave it alone. unless of course you want it to be faster than it already is. but if you dont want to do it yourself, take it to terry.
Andrew

[skalywags]

ditto
as for things to do.......... go to the dyno, make sure it has a safe AFR and then leave it alone. unless of course you want it to be faster than it already is. but if you dont want to do it yourself, take it to terry.
Andrewthis may be a stupid question, but not really knowing allthese acronyms, what's a safe AFR?

[dboat]

this may be a stupid question, but not really knowing allthese acronyms, what's a safe AFR?
air fuel ratio

;)

[skalywags]

air fuel ratio

;)
Thanks! If i hang out here long enough I may actaully learn something!

[diablolightning]

Thanks! If i hang out here long enough I may actaully learn something!
you should:twitch: post more pix when you pick her up:burnout:

[microsuck]

A safe AFR depends on the setup of your truck. how much boost and timing you are running. generally the more boost or timing or both the more fuel you will need to add to 1. insure you have enough fuel to balance out the extra air, and 2. to make sure your motors gets propper cooling. A stock truck will WOT AFR of about 13.2 the more power you give it the lower the number needs to be (more fuel per air). mine has a 6# pulley and a 17 deg advance. I have an 11.8 afr. Normally that setup would need to be at 11.5 to be consdered "safe" but I have upgraded cooling(efan, thermo) and a water injection system that fills in the role that extra fuel for cooling would do. people either blow their motors by having too much rod strain(broken rods due to mega hp or too much timing and detonation), or by running to lean AFR (fries pistons and valves). hope that info was useful, and good luck.
Andrew

[03LightningRocks]

A safe AFR depends on the setup of your truck. how much boost and timing you are running. generally the more boost or timing or both the more fuel you will need to add to 1. insure you have enough fuel to balance out the extra air, and 2. to make sure your motors gets propper cooling. A stock truck will WOT AFR of about 13.2 the more power you give it the lower the number needs to be (more fuel per air). mine has a 6# pulley and a 17 deg advance. I have an 11.8 afr. Normally that setup would need to be at 11.5 to be consdered "safe" but I have upgraded cooling(efan, thermo) and a water injection system that fills in the role that extra fuel for cooling would do. people either blow their motors by having too much rod strain(broken rods due to mega hp or too much timing and detonation), or by running to lean AFR (fries pistons and valves). hope that info was useful, and good luck.
Andrew

The only thing I would add to that is to remember....a safe AFR on one truck is not always safe on another. That is why I only dyno tune mine. No off the shelf chips for me...LOL.

My truck was actually a bit fatter than 13 stock. It was 12.5 at WOT. Now it runs 11.9 on my street side with a max advanced timing of 17 and it runs 12.1 on the race side with 21 max advanced timing. No detonation as long as I don't run some cheap arse fuel in it....and I don't.

The point of mentioning this is that you should get a good relationship with your tuner and don't be afraid to dyno it after any tuning changes. Also it would be wise to always be listening for audible detonation and if you think you hear it....get the heck off the go peddle.

Rocks:tu:

[microsuck]

The only thing I would add to that is to remember....a safe AFR on one truck is not always safe on another. That is why I only dyno tune mine. No off the shelf chips for me...LOL.

My truck was actually a bit fatter than 13 stock. It was 12.5 at WOT. Now it runs 11.9 on my street side with a max advanced timing of 17 and it runs 12.1 on the race side with 21 max advanced timing. No detonation as long as I don't run some cheap arse fuel in it....and I don't.

The point of mentioning this is that you should get a good relationship with your tuner and don't be afraid to dyno it after any tuning changes. Also it would be wise to always be listening for audible detonation and if you think you hear it....get the heck off the go peddle.

Rocks:tu:dude you got your AFR's backwards you goof. yeah, 12.1 with 21 deg advance:Bullshit . Ps. I also have the new bling that I had my eyes on of yours last time we dynoed. I gained back 3 psi lost due to belt slippage. its nice. the oil change guys took 30 min to do my oil this morning just cause there were like 12 of them standing arround checkin out the pimpness of the L.

[03LightningRocks]

dude you got your AFR's backwards you goof. yeah, 12.1 with 21 deg advance:Bullshit . Ps. I also have the new bling that I had my eyes on of yours last time we dynoed. I gained back 3 psi lost due to belt slippage. its nice. the oil change guys took 30 min to do my oil this morning just cause there were like 12 of them standing arround checkin out the pimpness of the L.

I did invert those numbers:eek2: . It was 11.9 on the race side at 21 deg. MAX advance, and 12-12.1 on the street side with 17 degrees...max advance. I could tell you what the real life safety margin is on the 03's with super chips but then I would have to kill you:evil .

Let me say this...it is alot more timing and alot leaner than you would want to believe. The safety margin is left in all the super chips to keep the road warriors from blowing their motors on sustained wot runs. If you only run at the track and never take it up to the 130-140 MPH spot...you could get away with what most would consider insane.:eek2:


Now for your boost gain...holy crap!!!!!.....3psi gain from the idler pulley. You must have been slipping like a mofo. Did you use the same belt?

Rocks:twitch:

[microsuck]

The safety margin is left in all the super chips to keep the road warriors from blowing their motors on sustained wot runs. guess who comes to mind?
http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1595&highlight=blown+motor
http://www.svtgalleries.net/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=4980&password=&sort=1&size=medium&cat=500&page=2

[microsuck]

Now for your boost gain...holy crap!!!!!.....3psi gain from the idler pulley. You must have been slipping like a mofo. Did you use the same belt?

Rocks:twitch:no, i bought a new belt a few days before and that night I saw 15 psi and about blew my load. never saw it again but i got sold on the idler. it goes 14-15 EVERYTIME now. I guess I was holding back because I didnt want to pay $250 for something i didnt know would work or not. once I knew the blower COULD make 15psi, i decided to make it. Spin, Spin Sugar.
Andrew
damn, i guess i need to dyno again

[03LightningRocks]

no, i bought a new belt a few days before and that night I saw 15 psi and about blew my load. never saw it again but i got sold on the idler. it goes 14-15 EVERYTIME now. I guess I was holding back because I didnt want to pay $250 for something i didnt know would work or not. once I knew the blower COULD make 15psi, i decided to make it. Spin, Spin Sugar.
Andrew
damn, i guess i need to dyno again
That rocks Andrew. Before I installed the Metco on mine I would get piles of belt dust after running 2 or 3 passes at the track. Now I get none.

Let me know when your going to the dyno. I need to check a couple "things" on mine. I should be showing slightly more H.P. and torque. Maybe next week sometime.

Rocks:bows

[microsuck]

That rocks Andrew. Before I installed the Metco on mine I would get piles of belt dust after running 2 or 3 passes at the track. Now I get none.

Let me know when your going to the dyno. I need to check a couple "things" on mine. I should be showing slightly more H.P. and torque. Maybe next week sometime.

Rocks:bowswell, if I am ever going to get good brakes I need to stop spending money. so a dynoday may be a distant future thing for me. unless you want to spot me $40 bonez.:D

[blueoval01]

That rocks Andrew. Before I installed the Metco on mine I would get piles of belt dust after running 2 or 3 passes at the track. Now I get none.
Let me know when your going to the dyno. I need to check a couple "things" on mine. I should be showing slightly more H.P. and torque. Maybe next week sometime.
Rocks:bows Ron, I'm up for a dyno. Garland is closer for me than Lewisville.
:burnout:

[microsuck]

Ron, I'm up for a dyno. Garland is closer for me than Lewisville.
:burnout:richardson is even closer and cheaper. thats where ron and I go

[03LightningRocks]

Ron, I'm up for a dyno. Garland is closer for me than Lewisville.
:burnout:

I was thinking maybe Mon. or Tues. morning next week. The place Andrew is speaking of is 40 bucks for 3 pulls, but they can take awhile to get to you. They do it between oil changes....LOL.

Andrew, surely you can save up 40 bucks by next week.

Rocks:tu:

[microsuck]

I was thinking maybe Mon. or Tues. morning next week. The place Andrew is speaking of is 40 bucks for 3 pulls, but they can take awhile to get to you. They do it between oil changes....LOL.

Andrew, surely you can save up 40 bucks by next week.

Rocks:tu:I dont know, I want brakes pretty bad. Im sure we can work out some kind of deal.:tu: