My ThOuGhTs CoNt..........

[03'svtlight]

Like I tried to post yesterday, I read a thread that Justin@JDM responded to concerning heat exchangers. His quote was:" It could help in the consistency at the track based on its ability to shed off excess heat more efficiently than the ol' stocker." But what interested me most was when he said," This helps alot because this is based on what the IAT (intake air temp.) sensor reads." "For every 10 degrees passed 100 degrees timing is pulled out 1 degree." Hmmm, really?? I wasnt' just gonna take his word for it . This was something I had to see for myself. So I jumped in the truck, plugged up the predator and took a reading. It read 47 deg. Right on par with the overhead console, so I knew it was correct. So I hit the ig. and off I go toward "PR".At my first stoplight I observed the IAT reading and it was already at 80 deg.Timing was still a solid 16 deg. I guess this would be a combination of the ambient temp. and the under hood temp. I was at PR for about 20mins.,but while I was there, I left the truck running. When got back in it I observed the temp again.It was at 115 deg. :eek2: I scan down to the timing and it was no longer at 16. It was bouncing from 14 to 15. It might just be some truth to what he is saying. But as I drove away, it quickly came back to around 80 deg.,but can you imagine an aug. day (100+) w/110% humidity?? I always thought my truck would get abit sluggish in the summer and now I think I've figured out why. ThEsE TrUcKs NeEd KnOcK SeNsOrS!!!!!! IMO I think this is where long-tubes would help. May not be a BIG no# for the dyno sheet but I think they would surely help to dissipate heat far better than those cast-iron junkers that come on it. :tu:

[03LightningRocks]

It was alot of stuff to read....So I didn't read it all...LOL. I think I get the jist of what your trying to say.

First...the second your truck starts to roll, the temp at the IAT will quickly dropped to the outside temp. I have monitored this on my L and on my Lariat Supercab. This is why adding a "ram air" cracks me the fock up. Ya don't need it! Actually, the whole afair of putting in a " cold air" kit and then boxing it back up, so you can add a "ram air" is just plain redundant. You may have done just as well with the stock air box and a K&N filter. So many folks are thinking the heat in the engine bay is somehow taking away from the OPEN ELEMENT filter. They are not thinking about the restriction that "ram air" is causing. The heat in engine bay will ALWAYS drop to within 5 degrees of ambient the second you start rolling.

And long tube headers may actually raise the temp in the engine bay. Those puppies put out a whole lot of heat. That is why I went with the coated headers, to help minimize this problem.


Rocks

[skalywags]

I'm glad to hear you say that about the Cold Air, because coming from someone with some knowledge of this confirms my thinking. People asked me when I had my R/T and when I talk about changing the intake on teh L, if I am going to do the Cold Air (as in box it in). My answer to them has always been probably not, because when I am moving the air is going to be just as cool, as if i had that box.
I'm not all that knowledgable about this stuff, which is why i like reading ya'lls posts. I may accidently learn something, and then even more dangerous I may try doing some of this stuff. :eek2: But it's also, why i will be having Terry do some of my work, when I get over the holidays.

[03'svtlight]

Thats just it. I have an air-aide box.I've heard they are somewhat restrictive. Now that I can prove that there is no "cold air" affect with the box, I'm gonna remove both side panels and run it open. I will again be monitoring the IAT to see if there will be any diff. in temp. Better yet, I may even go a step further and install my fac. airbox w/k&n filter just to monitor temps. and a dyno comparison. :cool: