Need Advice on 1966 Mustang

[03LightningRocks]

It has a 289....130k...original miles. 0 body damage...perfect pony interior....4 speed tranny...excellent running condition.....all stock parts on original motor.


What would be considered a fair price on this car...............Please hep me, Mustang fans. I want to buy the car...I just want to get it for a fare price.

Derek....I know you love stangs....what do you think?
Rocks:beer:

[99WhiteBeast]

coupe,vert, or fastback?

I would say 2-3k just off the cuff.

If you get the vin I can break it down with options and details.
Such as

"K" in the vin its a 289-4V hi-po (solid lifters)
"A" in the vin its a 289-4V and possible a GT
"C" in the vin its a 289-2V the most popular

[03LightningRocks]

It's the 289 HiPo....it is the coup............A/C.....4spd tranny...shifter on the floor

[mercbuff]

rock i just paid 6500. last week for a 68 coupe with no air and all the 65 i was looking at were around the same price its hard to find one with no rust

thats my 2 cents worth :)

[03LightningRocks]

rock i just paid 6500. last week for a 68 coupe with no air and all the 65 i was looking at were around the same price its hard to find one with no rust

thats my 2 cents worth :)

Yeah....that's what I am finding also. The ones in the 2-3 k range usually don't have motors that run...LOL.


Rocks

[02BOLT]

Ron, if it's a real Hi-Po "K" code car (I believe the 4th letter in the VIN was a "K"), then you've got yourself a RARE find my friend.knana

The K-code cars had a 4 barrel Autolite carburetor (as opposed to Holley), solid lift cam and lifters, aluminum intake manifold, "streamlined" exhaust manifolds, a bigger harmonic balancer, dual points distributor (versus single point), and 3.89:1 rear gearing. They were factory rated at 271 HP(Gross).

I don't know the exact worth, so I'd reccomend doing some research on the Classic Mustang sites, or Mustang Trader to see if you can get a good idea as to what they're going for.:tu:

Later,
Rob:beer:

[mardyn]

I don't think A/C was an option with the 271/289... it could have been added later... check the VIN to see the real story... post it if you can and I'll look it up in one of my stang books...

Mercbuff got a nice one last week for a good price... but his wife took it away from him...

mardyn

[03LightningRocks]

Thanks for all the help.....keep it comming. I can get this car for 6500. It has perfect condition...new sets.....it is suppose to be the Pony interior. I know for sure it is 270 H.P. The high po part I need to verify without letting on that this is what it has. It is 4 speed manual tranny.
I will have the vin numbers by next week and hopefully some pics of the car to show ya'll. At that point if it is what I think it is...I'll be flying to Kentucky to have a final look for rust and condition...with a check:cool:

I have dreamed about having a 65-66 Mustang since I was 14 years old....it may finally happenknana .

Like I said...keep the info comming fellows.....I need all the tips and info I can get.
Rocks:beer:

[03LightningRocks]

Another question for y'all. Will banks finance "classic" cars, and if so what or how do they determine what they will finance on it? How many months...so on.



Rocks:cool:

[BigBobsL]

Ron, if it's a real Hi-Po "K" code car (I believe the 4th letter in the VIN was a "K"), then you've got yourself a RARE find my friend.knana

The K-code cars had a 4 barrel Autolite carburetor (as opposed to Holley), solid lift cam and lifters, aluminum intake manifold, "streamlined" exhaust manifolds, a bigger harmonic balancer, dual points distributor (versus single point), and 3.89:1 rear gearing. They were factory rated at 271 HP(Gross).

I don't know the exact worth, so I'd reccomend doing some research on the Classic Mustang sites, or Mustang Trader to see if you can get a good idea as to what they're going for.:tu:

Later,
Rob:beer:

No 66 Stangs came with a Holley except the GT-350/ The K came with Manual choke (Cable at bottom of dash and no vacuum advance on it's dual point distributor. Intake was cast iron unless it was a GT-350. Standard gear for K was 3:50 open. Ford did not offer factoy installed (Dual Track) posi since it could not handle the power. Only posi offered was dealer installed Detroit Locker. Hi-Po were not offered with factory air conditioning and came with four blade fan. If the car has the Rally Pac, the Hi-Po's came with a 8000 rpm tach rather than 6000 rpm unit on standard V-8's. They also came with chrome valve covers and an open element air filter, but these are common upgrades as well. Solid. lifters and screw in rocker studs are used on only the Hi-Po motors

Few real K stangs out there, but term and badges are in common use. Only 1-2% of Stangs came with the Hi-Po.

[03LightningRocks]

Bob,

Thanks for the info. What about the A/C? Did that come factory or could that have been added later? I know it has it for sure. One of the fellows that has looked at the car told the seller that it was 270 H.P. Just looking at some internet research, it looks like it could have been rated at 270 HP without being a K car. Does this sound correct?


Thanks again,

Rocks:tu:

[BigBobsL]

Bob,

What about the A/C? Did that come factory or could that have been added later? I know it has it for sure. One of the fellows that has looked at the car told the seller that it was 270 H.P. Just looking at some internet research, it looks like it could have been rated at 270 HP without being a K car. Does this sound correct? No factory air - engineers felt the rpm potential of the motor would blow up the compressors. Also figured the target owners would not want air. Like the Ford 427's, the Hi-Po;s came with aonly 90 day or 4,000 mil warranty on the drive train; the rest of the car was covered for 24 months or 24,000 miles.


Thanks again,

Rocks:tu:

No factory air - engineers felt the rpm potential of the motor would blow up the compressors. Also figured the target owners would not want air. Like the Ford 427's, the Hi-Po;s came with a only 90 day or 4,000 mil warranty on the drive train; the rest of the car was covered for 24 months or 24,000 miles. xAs someone else posted, it is 271 hp, not 270. Only the Hi-Po had this power level. Other 289's maxed out at 225 hp or less. They were so much slower that I refused to race them with my K when I was a kid. I bought one new in 66 and still have it after selling it and later buying it back. Motor is gone and it is soon to get a 408.

My Mustang was very well know in the D/FW area, especially in Arlington since I street raced virtually every night an lived in Mansfield. Never got beaten by a 440 anything or Camaro of the era (except a couple of the 375 hp versions). Beat 350 hp Novas, except my best friends, his was not stock either. While not blazing fast by todays standards, it was good for mid-13's with only 4:10 gears and a Shelby intake with Holley and open exhaust (dumps). That was very fast at the time.

Many Hi-Po motors have not survived due to their racing usage, so many K model Mustangs have undergone engine swaps. Dallas Mustang has a book on Hi-Po's (~$20) that is complete with a lot of color pictures and ways to identify. Pick up the book and you will learn a lot about the K and how to ideaify real K cars and motors. K motor is key to value of K . The moors are rare and very expensive and unlike standard Mustang, they were serial numbered to match car.

Heres a link for info and pictures of mine. It is no longer black, but a very bright Canary yellow. http://www.haloclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8743

Good luck with your pursuit of a stang - Bob

[03'svtlight]

Another question for y'all. Will banks finance "classic" cars, and if so what or how do they determine what they will finance on it? How many months...so on.



Rocks:cool:
hey check this out bro. May help ya abit.
http://www2.nadaguides.com/Values/ValueCategoryReport.asp?UserID=54081A933D322&DID=38102&wSec=2&wPg=1207&CategoryId=11&MakeId=1065&VehicleId=29681&Year=1966&ColorId=

[BigBobsL]

http://www2.nadaguides.com/Values/ValueCategoryReport.asp?UserID=55081A9346F5D&DID=38102&wSec=2&wPg=1207&CategoryId=11&MakeId=1065&VehicleId=29681&Year=1966&ColorId=

Verygood link. This page of your link provides better value breakdowns.

[mardyn]

I check out the link to your Mustang pix... there on top of the engine on the last page sits a K/B 'Charger with EXACTLY the twin barrel throttle body set up I wanted for my car... and they told me at KB there's no way... no such thing... have never heard of it.... and there it sits, right on top of the engine...and looks great... So I bought their regular 5.0L Blowzilla kit... I'm pissed.
My question, what year model is that car and did you fab that up yourself, or did it come from KB that way? :0fftopic

Oh, btw... the yellow car looks great too... is that modular engine for the yelllow 'stang?

mardyn :D

Oh yeah... didn't mean to get off topic here.... let us know the results on the early "K" (maybe) Mustang aquisition..

[WA 2 FST]

Here is my unsolicited nickel on purchasing a classic car, especially if its the first one you've bought/owned.

Assuming you want a car that is a _driver_ and not some bucket of bolts that you have to work on to get into driving shape, or work on all the time to repair constantly, then concentrate on the condition of the car vs. numbers-matching.

You said you've always wanted a '65-66 Mustang. Very cool. I think they are great myself. I would honestly try to find a "restomod" of some sort that someone has dumped some serious $$ into, but isn't worth what they have in it b/c its not "original". Chances are good it will perform better, and be much more reliable than an original "rare" car anyway. Have you ever driven a real "K" code? Let me tell you...I have. Compared to any late model Mustang it is crap. Sure it _looks_ cool, but it is 1) slow (remember 271hp is gross, which means it is probably ~225hp net, and ~180-190hp at the rear wheels), 2) handled like a boat even though it was outfitted with restored K-code suspension parts. Plus, you're always worried about modding it b/c it is a numbers-matching car.

The caveat here in this case is that if you actually have found a real, authentic K-code, then you're stealing it for a lot less than its worth. Restored K-code fastbacks in MINT condition would be worth $25k easily, if not more.

But I like to modify and tweak stuff. I like to drive my cars anywhere, and everywhere. An EFI 5.0 with a T5 trans, electronic ignition, PS, and PB would be TONS of fun in an old classic '65-66 Mustang. :D You could drive it anywhere and get 25mpg on the highway. It would also blow the doors off a real K-code car, and you would not have to worry about something that is not _perfect_ on the car that would hurt its value. This also would mean you wouldn't have to try and find the diamond in the rough, #s matching car. You just want to find a very clean car, that is in excellent condition, and no rust. It sounds like this one is a really good candidate, whether its a 289 hi-po or not.

This is what I did with my '69 427 Vette, and it took a LOT of the pressure off trying to decipher what is what in the all-important #s-matching game. Remember, people can manufacture VIN#s and plates. It is easy to do, and its easy to get screwed. Mine didn't have the original motor, but a lot of the restoration had been done. And the guy had a brand new 454 crate motor in it. This made the value less, but made it more of a reliable driver. After a little work myself, it is way faster than the original. :d

Find something you can drive and enjoy. It's a lot more fun that way, IMHO. This may indeed be THE car! Just don't limit yourself.

Gotta show off the hot-rod. :D

[03LightningRocks]

Here is my unsolicited nickel on purchasing a classic car, especially if its the first one you've bought/owned.

Assuming you want a car that is a _driver_ and not some bucket of bolts that you have to work on to get into driving shape, or work on all the time to repair constantly, then concentrate on the condition of the car vs. numbers-matching.

You said you've always wanted a '65-66 Mustang. Very cool. I think they are great myself. I would honestly try to find a "restomod" of some sort that someone has dumped some serious $$ into, but isn't worth what they have in it b/c its not "original". Chances are good it will perform better, and be much more reliable than an original "rare" car anyway. Have you ever driven a real "K" code? Let me tell you...I have. Compared to any late model Mustang it is crap. Sure it _looks_ cool, but it is 1) slow (remember 271hp is gross, which means it is probably ~225hp net, and ~180-190hp at the rear wheels), 2) handled like a boat even though it was outfitted with restored K-code suspension parts. Plus, you're always worried about modding it b/c it is a numbers-matching car.

The caveat here in this case is that if you actually have found a real, authentic K-code, then you're stealing it for a lot less than its worth. Restored K-code fastbacks in MINT condition would be worth $25k easily, if not more.

But I like to modify and tweak stuff. I like to drive my cars anywhere, and everywhere. An EFI 5.0 with a T5 trans, electronic ignition, PS, and PB would be TONS of fun in an old classic '65-66 Mustang. :D You could drive it anywhere and get 25mpg on the highway. It would also blow the doors off a real K-code car, and you would not have to worry about something that is not _perfect_ on the car that would hurt its value. This also would mean you wouldn't have to try and find the diamond in the rough, #s matching car. You just want to find a very clean car, that is in excellent condition, and no rust. It sounds like this one is a really good candidate, whether its a 289 hi-po or not.

This is what I did with my '69 427 Vette, and it took a LOT of the pressure off trying to decipher what is what in the all-important #s-matching game. Remember, people can manufacture VIN#s and plates. It is easy to do, and its easy to get screwed. Mine didn't have the original motor, but a lot of the restoration had been done. And the guy had a brand new 454 crate motor in it. This made the value less, but made it more of a reliable driver. After a little work myself, it is way faster than the original. :d

Find something you can drive and enjoy. It's a lot more fun that way, IMHO. This may indeed be THE car! Just don't limit yourself.

Gotta show off the hot-rod. :D

I really didn't give all the details on this car in my first post.

The car was in the same family from day one. It belonged to a, RMF, who got a divorce a couple years ago.

My mom was his attorney(sp). His business went to sh!t during the divorce. He owed my Mom about 9 grand. In Kentucky, you can't just tell someone to stick it up your ass like you can in Texas on a debt.

My Mom got a judgement and her and the county sheriff went to the guys house to pick between a Harley Fat Boy, and this car. My mom couldn't drive a Harley, so she chose the family Mustang.

Now she is going to sell the Mustang, since she never drives it. The fellow had already put some ching into restoring it. I don't know if it is a K car or not...but I will by sometime next week. I do know that it has a 271 H.P. motor in it according to the guy that offered her 6500 bucks. He is a car reseller, so he wants to buy it and turn it for a quick buck. He also told her that this car is darned near impossible to find in the condition it is in.

I am looking for a Mustang that has original set up....I really am not worried about having to put some work into it as long as the motor and drive train are the one it came with.

Rocks:tu:

[WA 2 FST]

Since you know the history of the car, you have a huge advantage already.

To me, this is a no-brainer then... whether its a K-code or not. You cannot lose on the deal if its in the condition you describe. :)

[BigBobsL]

The yellow car is getting a 408 stroker and 5 speed. Wes makes a very good point on K-car vs resto-mod. My original motor is gone so original is not an issue and I would not have left it stock Anyway. I did not leave it stock when it was new. It now has 4 wheel discs, cage, subframes, full Global West suspension, full cell, etc.

As to the KB intake, I had it custom built locally (Beck Mechanical - builds custom aheet metal intakes) and he did a great job, but not cheap. It is built bigger than Flowzilla and I added a 03 Cobra throttle body and 90 mm L MAF. I wanted to get rid of the many 90 degree bends present in even the Blowzilla, epecialy on 94-95 models. It has a straight shot to fender. He has built several for Strickly Performance and his cusomer's 03 Cobras w/KB's.

Also had him do the welding on my re-worked Lightning upper intake. I built up the short turn radius and improved the long side. Should help air flow into my Apten-modified Eaton or eventual KB. Go back to the link I posted and you can see those pics.


I check out the link to your Mustang pix... there on top of the engine on the last page sits a K/B 'Charger with EXACTLY the twin barrel throttle body set up I wanted for my car... and they told me at KB there's no way... no such thing... have never heard of it.... and there it sits, right on top of the engine...and looks great... So I bought their regular 5.0L Blowzilla kit... I'm pissed.
My question, what year model is that car and did you fab that up yourself, or did it come from KB that way? :0fftopic

Oh, btw... the yellow car looks great too... is that modular engine for the yelllow 'stang?

mardyn :D

Oh yeah... didn't mean to get off topic here.... let us know the results on the early "K" (maybe) Mustang aquisition..

[WA 2 FST]

:tu: :bows

Bob, that is a very sweet creation you're working on there!! I love it!

[BigBobsL]

Wes - Thanks for the compliments - It has been a project orphan for a long yime, but fired up to get it running since the paint job.

How is your collection of toys doing these days. Lost count of your stable, but a definatey admired them last time I saw them.

[WA 2 FST]

Bob,

Well I sold the hot-rod Mustang b/c I just wasn't spending enough time at the track anymore. Priorities change. it happens. I was "finished" with that car, and it was a good experience as it was my first car to ever really work on myself.

I had nitrous on my '02 Z06, but decided to take the plunge and have a Lingenfelter TT setup installed on it. First time in a long time that I didn't do the work myself, but they don't sell the kit to DIYers and after looking at it all, I wouldn't bother tackling that anyway. The thing is just as advertised. Still get 28mpg on the highway, drives like a stocker, is _quieter_ than a stocker, looks like stock under the hood, and runs like a raped ape (once traction is achieved).

I'm having fun with this '69 big-block Stingray, too. It's nice not to have to mess with emissions. I kept it really tame (had a 1000 mile 454 HO crate motor in it when I bought it...promptly swapped on some better heads, a bit bigger cam, sidepipes, and a 5-speed), but its plenty fast enough as it is. I haven't even tuned the carb at all (box stock Holley DP). It runs a bit rich at WOT for a N/A motor, or it would be over 450rwhp which isn't bad for a 9.3:1 CR pump gas motor that makes peak HP at 5600rpm.

Next up... I'm selling my '99 L to get an '04. We'll see how that all plays out.

Keep us posted on that '66. I'm drooling over that beauty!

[Ivanhoe_Farms]

Ok, It has been about 10 years since I rebuilt mustangs, but if it is truly a K-code car with a 4-speed for $6500, buy it -- we restored a 65 K-code GT convertible in 89 and it sold for $37,500. The K-code car is really rare, but you need to make sure that you check the VIN number. Also there is a code tag on the door that will tell you the tranny, the rear-end gears and original color of the car. You should be able to look online and decifer all of the codes to make sure that the car is "RIGHT". ;)

[03LightningRocks]

Ok, It has been about 10 years since I rebuilt mustangs, but if it is truly a K-code car with a 4-speed for $6500, buy it -- we restored a 65 K-code GT convertible in 89 and it sold for $37,500. The K-code car is really rare, but you need to make sure that you check the VIN number. Also there is a code tag on the door that will tell you the tranny, the rear-end gears and original color of the car. You should be able to look online and decifer all of the codes to make sure that the car is "RIGHT". ;)

Thanks.....I should be getting the Vin numbers next week. My mom is not going to be home in Kentucky untill then to get the VIN off the car for me. She is also going to snap several pics of it for me to look at. I will probably post them here to see what everyone thinks.......

This is all good fellows...I really appreciate all the help everyone is offering with this.


Rocks:beer:

[REXRENEGADE]

Ron,

Those (65-66 Stang) normally sell for 8 to 12 thousand and up in Southern California, so 6 to 8 thousand would be a good deal around this area. That's a classic auto my friend!
:d