Check your IC pumps.

[L8 APEX]

I have found 3 pumps so far that were either locked up or not circulating nearly fast enough. You can see it by looking at he IC fluid tank. The fluid should be whirling agianst the passenger side of the tank. Remember there is a 12 volt electric pump the circulated your intercooler fluid. It is mounted under the truck between the intercooler and sway bar. A liter sized pump with a Bosch sticker on it. Both times I have been able to beat them with a hammer and break them free for a while longer. Sayle's wasn't even plugged in from the dealer:hammer: . Bad news is those pumps are $250+. When that pump doesn't work your engine eats a lot of HOT air and pulls a lot of timing hopefully:eek:

[Sandman]

Thanks for the heads up! :tu:

[L8 APEX]

One was Wesman's 99 about 75K miles, it was not running so I beat it is a technical manner and it started up agian but runs slow. Last week a 60K mile 2002 L same deal.

[03'svtlight]

:eek: ok boss, I'll check her out. Since I'm not gonna trade her in, I'm a concerned parent. :D

[tliss]

I'll check as well. Also, does somebody have a how-to on installing a toggle switch to turn that bad boy on on demand? I would like to get that done so I can be kewl like Adam :cool: .

Tom

[99WhiteBeast]

Thanks for the heads up TC-I just checked mine and its swirling like a mofo

68k on it

[03'svtlight]

I'll check as well. Also, does somebody have a how-to on installing a toggle switch to turn that bad boy on on demand? I would like to get that done so I can be kewl like Adam :cool: .

Tom
Adam gets the VIP treatment over @PR's . :D

[Mark #2]

I'll check as well. Also, does somebody have a how-to on installing a toggle switch to turn that bad boy on on demand? I would like to get that done so I can be kewl like Adam :cool: .

Tom
FYI,
I saved this from a couple of years ago.
"Hey all, Sal here. I know many have had problems wiring a switch for the intercooler pump in the past, so I figured I'd pass along this info on how to do it properly. First, you need to locate pin 70 on the PCM plug (White wire with an Orange tracer). This is the PCMs output to turn on the pump relay. You need to splice a wire into this wire. Then run that wire to a swtch. The other end of the switch must be wired to GROUND. The PCM does not supply voltage to it's outputs, it supplies ground. This gives you control over the intercooler pump relay. The power side of the relay trigger is energized when the key is in run, so naturally the pump will only come on in run, but this is no big deal. Doing it this way doesn't cause any screwy circuits that can blow fuses and melt wires as some have had happen. This way turns on the pump relay which is the safe and proper way to turn on the pump. Hope this helps and HAPPY COOLING!!

[Crawford]

Mark,

Thats good stuff there. I think we have another WWFB project on our hands!

[Tex Arcana]

Tim Skelton on his site has the pump switch mod, found here: http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/reliability/intercooler_pump.htm Good read, and even a diagram! :D

On SVTPerformance, this guy came up with a possible cause for the problem:




Originally posted by wydopnthrtl
Since the pump is at just about the lowest part of the system it would be pretty suseptable to debris getting between the vanes and housing in the pump. If this happens just flush it good and reinstall.

Rich



My response was:


Good idea, but wouldn't the fact that it's locking also lead to failure? Testing it would be imperative, and any hint of impending failure would indicate replacement.

Now, a nice idea would be to create a sediment trap, upstream of the pump, so the junk can't get into it and seize it... hmmmm...

I'm about to head for Lowes to look at circular saws, and I'm gonna have a look at the plumbing, and see waht kind of idea percolates out of that boiling pot of alphabet soup I call my brain... :d

[Mark #2]

[QUOTE=Tex Arcana]Tim Skelton on his site has the pump switch mod, found here: http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/reliability/intercooler_pump.htm Good read, and even a diagram! :D

That's the hard way(won't go as far as wrong though), see the easy way posted above.

Oh and the easiest way is just to remove the relay and jumper across it.

If you do not have intercooler fans, this mod makes no sense, unless it is a really windy day.


Mark

[my2002lightning]

I checked mine while out running errands this morning and it's flowing good.

Thanks for the heads-up Terry and good info ya'll.

Ronald

[Tex Arcana]

[QUOTE=Tex Arcana]Tim Skelton on his site has the pump switch mod, found here: http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/reliability/intercooler_pump.htm Good read, and even a diagram! :D

That's the hard way(won't go as far as wrong though), see the easy way posted above.

Oh and the easiest way is just to remove the relay and jumper across it.

If you do not have intercooler fans, this mod makes no sense, unless it is a really windy day.


Mark

Actually, it does make sense, especialy if you do alot of dragging or open-tracking, or if your'e doing alot of mods and spending time at the dyno, becasue keeping that water flowing is critical for dumping the heat off. On all three of my pulls, my power dropped 10 hp bewteen pulls, and that was with a 5-10 minute rest between them, which tells me the water in the aftercooler had heat-soaked, and was unable to dump enough excess heat
to give it maximum power. Had I had that mod (fans, pump switch), I think my dyno numbers would have been a LOT better. :D

[Mark #2]

Actually, it does make sense, especialy if you do alot of dragging or open-tracking, or if your'e doing alot of mods and spending time at the dyno, becasue keeping that water flowing is critical for dumping the heat off. On all three of my pulls, my power dropped 10 hp bewteen pulls, and that was with a 5-10 minute rest between them, which tells me the water in the aftercooler had heat-soaked, and was unable to dump enough excess heat
to give it maximum power. Had I had that mod (fans, pump switch), I think my dyno numbers would have been a LOT better. :DTex,
It makes sense if you have fans. It does not, if you do not have fans(no way to dissipate the heat). That's why I haven't done it yet. No fans.

Actually, I'm going to start this project soon. Yes, Crawford it can be a WWFB project someday.
Mark

[Tex Arcana]

Tex,
It makes sense if you have fans. It does not, if you do not have fans(no way to dissipate the heat). That's why I haven't done it yet. No fans.

Actually, I'm going to start this project soon. Yes, Crawford it can be a WWFB project someday.
Mark

Okay, WTF is a "WWFB" project??? :confused:

[blueoval01]

Okay, WTF is a "WWFB" project??? :confused: I can answer that ........ :D
WillWorkForBeer .....

I was fortunate enough to be a spectator once upon a time ... :tu:

[Tex Arcana]

I can answer that ........ :D
WillWorkForBeer .....

I was fortunate enough to be a spectator once upon a time ... :tu::rll:
The last time I went to a similar event (I'm banned from alky by my do for the time being, so the "B" was "water" :(), I ended up getting involved and dirty doing an IRS-for-live axle swap between a '98 Cobra and a '01 Cobra. :eek:

[Silver_2000]

Actually, it does make sense, especialy if you do alot of dragging or open-tracking, or if your'e doing alot of mods and spending time at the dyno, becasue keeping that water flowing is critical for dumping the heat off. On all three of my pulls, my power dropped 10 hp bewteen pulls, and that was with a 5-10 minute rest between them, which tells me the water in the aftercooler had heat-soaked, and was unable to dump enough excess heat
to give it maximum power. Had I had that mod (fans, pump switch), I think my dyno numbers would have been a LOT better. :D
Its more than just the IC fluid heat that causes the loss of power. The entire engine and engine bay are heat soaked so the intake air temp are higher etc etc... Mark #2 does his home work before doing a mod ... If he says it makes no sense - I believe him ....

Except suspensions - He went thru 3 or 4 suspension systems before he found one he liked.. :rll:

[Sixpipes]

80K miles and still pumping it's little heart out. I have intercooler fans and they do work, but like Doug said, that is only one part of the equation. :cool:

[L8 APEX]

I over loaded my stock intercooler running 130+ after 15 miles it started detonating and I pulled over and the fluid was HOT. That was with a 2# pulley in the summer night air. Stan said the Fluidyne exhcnager was a must for road racing. After I installed mine I ran a 6# pulley over 130+ for 2 hours and no problems. Also if you are just idling around the streets your IC fluid is heating up soaking heat from the engine block. The fan pulls the heat just like you were doing 60mph down the road.

[Ivanhoe_Farms]

Don't do that!! LOL:rll:

[Tex Arcana]

I over loaded my stock intercooler running 130+ after 15 miles it started detonating and I pulled over and the fluid was HOT. That was with a 2# pulley in the summer night air. Stan said the Fluidyne exhcnager was a must for road racing. After I installed mine I ran a 6# pulley over 130+ for 2 hours and no problems. Also if you are just idling around the streets your IC fluid is heating up soaking heat from the engine block. The fan pulls the heat just like you were doing 60mph down the road.

Yeah, I read up on Skelton's mods and suggestions, and that's pretty high up on my list, to replace the heat exchanger with a larger unit and fans, I think right under a larger-capacity pan, a cooler, and remote filters for the tranny. I've got to find my list and find out for sure, tho. :cool:

I checked my IC pump last nite, tho, and it's purrin' fine.. thanks for the heads-up L8, I'll be watching that more closely now. :d

[Mark #2]

Its more than just the IC fluid heat that causes the loss of power. The entire engine and engine bay are heat soaked so the intake air temp are higher etc etc... Mark #2 does his home work before doing a mod ... If he says it makes no sense - I believe him ....

Except suspensions - He went thru 3 or 4 suspension systems before he found one he liked.. :rll:
The suspension thing was a research project.:) Sometimes homework has to be done at home and not on-line.

I think that most people that have experienced the WWFB garage will attest: That is were I stand around and drink your beer and tell you what bolts to turn in what order.

Mark

[True Blue Aggie]

Well, with Terry's install of his old intercooler, fan, and relay switch Friday on my truck, my time at the track this weekend was well enjoyed. The truck was completely cooled off within 10-15 minutes, and I did not have to worry about excessive heat while waiting in the staging lanes. Plus, all of the passes I made at Redline were within 8.50-8.57 range.

Quick cooldown time, less heat on the supercharger, and consistent times.....hell yes I will give this mod a :tu:

Oh, and a big :tu: to Adam for turning the intercooler fan off when I went to get something to eat. That would have sucked to have a dead battery for the next round.

[Moonshine]

94K and my little under hood margarita machine is still churning away merrily. :tu:

[blueoval01]

....... my little under hood margarita machine is still churning away merrily. :tu: :rll::rll:
Never quite thought of it that way. :tu:

[noelvm]

Yea, we found a bad pump on one of the guys trucks at FFW. Hitem is only a very short term fix as it will not start usually when you shut of and restart the engine. I had to replace my at about 85K. They wear out.

The manual pump swithch is a good idea even if you don't have fans. It keeps the fluid in the engine moving in the pits with the engine off, otherwise it really heats up. Fans and a guage with the switch are needed for a dedicated bracket racer. Here's a how to I put up.

http://www.haloclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=9081&highlight=pump+switch#9081 (http://www.haloclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=9081&highlight=pump+switch#9081)

I had no luck with Sals white and orange wire.

noelvm

[Mark #2]

Yea, we found a bad pump on one of the guys trucks at FFW. Hitem is only a very short term fix as it will not start usually when you shut of and restart the engine. I had to replace my at about 85K. They wear out.

The manual pump swithch is a good idea even if you don't have fans. It keeps the fluid in the engine moving in the pits with the engine off, otherwise it really heats up. Fans and a guage with the switch are needed for a dedicated bracket racer. Here's a how to I put up.

http://www.haloclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=9081&highlight=pump+switch#9081 (http://www.haloclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=9081&highlight=pump+switch#9081)

I had no luck with Sals white and orange wire.

noelvm
I am going to check out grounding the negitive side of the relay. I believe this is what the white and orange wire accomplishes. This only works though if you turn the key to on.

[L-Fever]

Over the past few days I noticed my coolant level dropping in my IC tank. Well I checked the ic pump today and it wasn't pumping. I changed the fuse,didn't help, crawled under and took a look. The connector to the pump was loose! I cleaned out the connectors and connected it back up and still no go. I then tapped lightly on pump mount strap and zoom zoom! Pump is pumping like crazy now!

[noelvm]

When you refil the intercooler system it is not unusual for it to have air in the system and when you get air in the pump it will not work. The easiet solution I have foulnd it to squeeze the hose going from the radiator tank to the pump. You will hear a swoose sound when the air goes out and the pump fills with liquid. You may have to do this more than once when you refill a drained system. To find out. Shut off the truck for a few minutes and then when you start it check to see if pump is running. If not perform above procedure again.


noelvm