Motorcraft 5W20

[anglerx007]

I have been trying to learn a little about synthetic oil before dumping it into my 04 L. A compromise I thought was to go with a blend...by the way ...ever notice that the blend ratio is not advertised. Anyway, at a local parts store that starts with an "O" I found Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend for a reasonable price. I figure what the heck its a Ford subsidiary so it must be designed for their engines. Later, I hopped on the internet and came across a very interesting and informative article about motor oil.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

In this article it talks about flashpoint of an oil. It goes on to say that a good oil should not have a flashpoint of less than 400F. Anything less than this value and you can expect oil consumption from vaporization/burn.

Next I went to the motorcraft web site and found the specs on their 5W20 synthetic blend made from "hydrocracking" whatever, on this spec sheet it listed its flashpoint at 365F.

Any thoughts? Which one is BS?

Also the article I show the link to has an interesting spin on why the manufactures are recommending the lighter oil.

[Band]

Thanks for the link, I'm about to read it.

20 weight blend is thinner than 20 weight full syn. I personally wouldn't run motorcraft because it is a blend.

[blueoval01]

On all my cars/Trucks I run the OEM stuff from the owners manual. However, I do smell oil burn on all except the L.
So, I'm definately open for suggestions.
The synthetic stuff I have never used.
:confused:

[Band]

On all my cars/Trucks I run the OEM stuff from the owners manual. However, I do smell oil burn on all except the L.
So, I'm definately open for suggestions.
The synthetic stuff I have never used.
:confused:


The bottom of that article tells you why synthetic is superior oil. Mobil 1 is known as the best oil available. The set back is price.

[Band]

Also the article I show the link to has an interesting spin on why the manufactures are recommending the lighter oil.

I don't recall reading anything about manufacturers recommending a lighter oil. Or why you would run a lighter oil.

[dboat]

One of these kind of threads comes up every now and then. I use Mobil 1 5W30 in all of my vehicles. If you do the research, synthetic oil was first used in WWII, so its not exactly new. I did a research paper on it in high school :eek2: back before 1975 and have been using M1 in all of my vehicles for the last couple of decades. Why? well no engine related problems since I have and its readily available. Amsoil and others may be better but they are not as readily available. Heck you can buy the stuff in gallon jugs at Wally World if you choose to.
The main testaments I have are as follows, I had a 80 something Dodge Daytona Turbo Z, known for burning up turbos, but I had no problems with over 100,000 miles. My bro in law is a mechanic and he has taken apart more engines on ranch and 4 wheel drive trucks that get driven very hard and put up wet... LOL.. anyway, those that have run M1 have a completely clean engine.
There are several studies that show how cars that were run at the Indy 500 still had the honing marks on them after the race. And in cars that had extra large oil filters and even with extended drain intervals, the engines would get pulled at over 100k miles and still meet the specs of a new engine..
So you know where I stand.
Dana

[StormShadow]

Here is another thread for you Sayle. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

[Ivanhoe_Farms]

I have been running Mobil1 in all my cars and trucks since about 1990. Chevrolet recommends Mobil1 in the Camaro and Corvette -- I was told this by the Camaro/Corvette brand owner for Chevrolet.

We had a turbo car and the manufacturer recommended synthetic. It is just superior in almost all aspects and well worth the difference:tu:

[anglerx007]

Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll start looking for some M1 on sale.

My comment about the manufacturers recommending the lighter oil was directed at Ford. Since 2000 they have been recommending 5w20. In the article that I had linked it discussed a slight gas mileage improvement with lighter oil with the disadvantage being more engine wear. The mpg benefit helps them meet certain government standards. This supposedly translates to 100-150k vs >300K expected life expectancy of an engine. Most Americans accept the 100-150K rather than the 300K. Go figure.

royal purple anyone?

[travis5000_99]

Ive been runnin Mobile 1 eversince I can remember & its worth it!!!!

Great deals at Wall-Mart, they do it for 30-35 bucks.... Cant beat that!!

[blueoval01]

.............. So you know where I stand.
Dana Dana, are you using OEM filters or M1 filters?
The last time I used a third party filter (and that was quite some time ago), it leaked. So I've always bought OEM from the dealers.

[dboat]

Dana, are you using OEM filters or M1 filters?
The last time I used a third party filter (and that was quite some time ago), it leaked. So I've always bought OEM from the dealers.


I use a M1 filter exclusively.. :tu:

[REXRENEGADE]

Pay a little extra $$ and get the Mobile 1. :bows

Otherwise your engine might :vomit:

Then you'll do this to yourself :hammer:

[QIK KAT]

Y'all are out your damd minds, Who in the F cares man. I burn maple syrup, it taste the best:evil

[Alpine]

Y'all are out your damd minds, Who in the F cares man. I burn maple syrup, it taste the best:evilWho the F cares about all of your stupid a$$ replys. You must be drunk out of your mind. You always have negative comments about everything. Go have another:beer: .

[Tex Arcana]

My home dealer has used Valvoline since the day I got the truck, but the first batch was Motorcraft. When I ran MSR with DFW/SVTOA, I switched to M1 and an M1 filter, and have been happy ever since. To be bluntly honest, I should have done this a LONG time ago, mainly because I've used M1 in my beaters and gotten excellent results, including a couple of 10k or 15k oil change intervals (this hapens when you be po' folk!).


I've read the first article, but not the second. We should sticky links to them, because theya re important info we need. On F150World, someone began his own research into oil change intervals and how long one can go safely, but I never saw the followup on that. :(

And like REXRENEGADE said, what price protection??

Also, I'd like to hear from someone who's running Royal Purple, and how it does.

[Shiner1]

I have used Royal Purple beginning with the first oil change. A buddy of mine races a pro-mod stang and he uses the race weights and recomened it one day when we were working on the L. I'm not married to RP but like everyone else that has had a good experience with the oil they use, so have I. The L runs great, doesn't use oil and I have had no problems. Just my $.02

[cpeapea]

i have ran synthetic m1 and rp in my truck since breakin, when i broke it down for the recent build up it still had the crosshatching in the cylinder walls at 27k (which isnt high mileage) also the bearings looked like they were brand new. props to synth, it made a believer out of me considering i ran the piss out of my truck, the motor looked brandnew

[Tex Arcana]

I checked my oil Friday, before going to Kennedale, and it was perfetcly full, no usage, and clean as a whistle, at about 3k. I like Mobil1. :D

[my2002lightning]

John/Shiner1,

I run Motorcraft 5w-20 and mine burns approx. a qt. every 1K miles! :confused:

I've run it since day one (bought brand-new) and have 21K miles.


Maybe it's time to switch... What do those engineers know writing those Owner's Manuals? :cool:


Ronald




I have used Royal Purple beginning with the first oil change. A buddy of mine races a pro-mod stang and he uses the race weights and recomened it one day when we were working on the L. I'm not married to RP but like everyone else that has had a good experience with the oil they use, so have I. The L runs great, doesn't use oil and I have had no problems. Just my $.02

[Shiner1]

John/Shiner1,

I run Motorcraft 5w-20 and mine burns approx. a qt. every 1K miles! :confused:

I've run it since day one (bought brand-new) and have 21K miles.


Maybe it's time to switch... What do those engineers know writing those Owner's Manuals? :cool:


Ronald
Is that normal to burn a quart that often??

[my2002lightning]

I asked Terry a while back and he seemed to think so.



Is that normal to burn a quart that often??

[L8 APEX]

It is the factory fill oil and is API SJ certified. Rememebr regular dyno oil made by the main guns is still a high quality product. Once you go above that it is all gravy. Before I learned about synthetics I just used Valvoline dyno oil. It protected my engines for hundreds of thousands of miles back then. One thing I did notice about going synthetic was a little more power and improved gas mileage.

[Tex Arcana]

Is that normal to burn a quart that often??
I wouldn't think so... mine's not burning diddly, but I dont konw the ocndition of the PCV system, so maybe his is that issue... (shrug)

[my2002lightning]

This just seems odd to me. :confused: I just think the L shouldn't burn oil.

I'm due my 21-22K oil change here in the next week or so and I like it to all be done/documented by a Ford house.

Is a Mobil 1 oil-change an option at, say, Bankston-Frisco, and is it warrantied?

I'm ALL for better engine oil and the longevity of the L.

[L8 APEX]

Most performance vehicles are known to consume oil. The new Corvettes 02-up revised their PCV system to cut this consumption in half. The manual says to overfill it by 1qt prior to track use. Oil makes everything better:beer:

[Tex Arcana]

This just seems odd to me. :confused: I just think the L shouldn't burn oil.

I'm due my 21-22K oil change here in the next week or so and I like it to all be done/documented by a Ford house.

Is a Mobil 1 oil-change an option at, say, Bankston-Frisco, and is it warrantied?

I'm ALL for better engine oil and the longevity of the L.
As long as the oil used meets manufacturer's specifications (and API specs), it's warrantied, UNLESS the manufacturer SPECIFICALLY states a certain brand and class of oil is to be used--as is the case for the Mercedes, which runs Mobil1 ONLY, and any other oil will void waranty; the catch there is, if a manufacturer specifies a particular oil, then that manufacturer MUST provide that oil and the changes for FREE.

And we all konw FOrd ain't going there.

Since FOrd won't pay for it, they can't dictate the brand of oil you use, unless they are prepared to PROVE that an oil used caused a failure (and the burden of proof rests with THEM, not us).

AS for Bankston, they'll gladly change your oil for MObil ONe, and an M1 filter. I dont konw if they carry the stuff, but I'll ask tomorrow. If they do the change for you with your oil, they just charge you the labor it would cost to do a standard change. Again, I'll check it out for sure. But at the least, next change be ready for putting in the M1.

As for change intervals, that link for Bob the Oil Guy, has a study being done on synths, and the first one was on M1, which lasted **18000* before they pulled the plug--and they think they pulled it too soon!! I"ve personally run M1 to 15k (in another vehicle) with no ill effects. Go check out the link.. good stuff over there.

[my2002lightning]

Tex,

I'd appreciate the heads-up on the M1 / Bankston point.

I just try to keep things "documented" on the FoMoCo books.

Thanks "fellers" ! :tu:

[Silver_2000]

Ronald,

If you go to the dealer for a Mobil 1 oil change - I may not be able to keep my mouth shut about the other issue....

There is NO reason to go to the dealer for oil changes, that is extreme paranoia ... Just get the oil changed every 5k or less and KEEP the RECEIPTS ...

I use the Walmart - Mobil 1 method.. The other advantage of Walmart is they are all computerized now. When I pull up they know who I am and they know exactly what they did last time - I tell them to repeat it..

Cant beat the price - Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft filter for 35 or so ... PLUS I bet they could print out a sheet shoing every oil change if you needed it ...

Doug

[my2002lightning]

Doug,

You MAY have a point there. :cool: I just want to take good care of Suzy.

Your check is in the mail.:D

Ronald




Ronald,

If you go to the dealer for a Mobil 1 oil change - I may not be able to keep my mouth shut about the other issue....

There is NO reason to go to the dealer for oil changes, that is extreme paranoia ... Just get the oil changed every 5k or less and KEEP the RECEIPTS ...

I use the Walmart - Mobil 1 method.. The other advantage of Walmart is they are all computerized now. When I pull up they know who I am and they know exactly what they did last time - I tell them to repeat it..

Cant beat the price - Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft filter for 35 or so ... PLUS I bet they could print out a sheet shoing every oil change if you needed it ...

Doug

[Tex Arcana]

Doug,

You MAY have a point there. :cool: I just want to take good care of Suzy.

Your check is in the mail.:D

Ronald
OOoohhh.. HUSH MONEY!!! Since I know too.. better send me some cash as well... :evil:

[my2002lightning]

There must be a conspiracy against me! :crying:

[Tex Arcana]

There must be a conspiracy against me! :crying:
Only for teh CASSSHHH, MMMMAAANNNNNN.... :d

[Sandman]

I use the Walmart - Mobil 1 method.. The other advantage of Walmart is they are all computerized now. When I pull up they know who I am and they know exactly what they did last time - I tell them to repeat it..
I take it you've had no problems with Walmart, which is good. When I worked at the service department of a Ford dealership, we had all sorts of issues from the local walmart. Several stripped drain plugs, a lost door... One guy came in and said he just had his oil changed at walmart and wanted us to check it, we looked at his dipstick and the oil was pitch black! and it looked like the filter had been wiped off with a rag.

GL, but mine isn't going to Walmart.

Hey Ronald,

I you want to spend some QT with Suzie, get a drain pan and change the oil yourself. I'm always believed that if you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself. As for the paranoia, just do what Doug said, keep the reciepts and also document it in your service manual that came with the truck. This way you don't have to worry about some one else scratching up the front end or leaving the keys in it:tu:.

[Silver_2000]

I take it you've had no problems with Walmart, which is good. When I worked at the service department of a Ford dealership, we had all sorts of issues from the local walmart. Several stripped drain plugs, a lost door... One guy came in and said he just had his oil changed at walmart and wanted us to check it, we looked at his dipstick and the oil was pitch black! and it looked like the filter had been wiped off with a rag.

GL, but mine isn't going to Walmart.

Hey Ronald,

I you want to spend some QT with Suzie, get a drain pan and change the oil yourself. I'm always believed that if you want something done right, you gotta do it yourself. As for the paranoia, just do what Doug said, keep the reciepts and also document it in your service manual that came with the truck. This way you don't have to worry about some one else scratching up the front end or leaving the keys in it:tu:.Shall I share the stories of incompetence that came from Bankston Ford ?
The 3 pulleys they F***ed up ?? The Waterpump O ring they cut and didnt replace - deciding that RTV was a better solution ? The bolts and nuts they left off ? The number of times they couldnt reproduce the problem ?
We wont even go into the nightmare of incompetence they foisted in JD Blackwell - That was a CASH job they had weeks to complete and they didnt even get all the bolts back in the transmission - He's lucky the SOB didnt fall out of the truck. :throw:

At least at Walmart I am not paying $90 an hour for incompetence...
I can also stand there and watch there every move .. Cant do that at any dealer I know of....

Ill take my chances with Walmart - The guys there LOVE the truck and the sound of it ....

As far as changing it yourself ... Lets see $30 for 6 quarts of mobiil 1 - $4 for a filter - Plus you have to jack it up and get all nasty and then you have to cart the used oil somewhere... No thanks ..... Im MUCH happier just checking thier work .... Lets see - Quick glance at the Dipstick and the filter and Im good to go ...

Doug

[Sandman]

Hey... to each his own. No matter where you go, you can run into an employee that is just getting the job done, but cares nothing about how they get it done. They don't care whether they do it right or not. But I do know this. Nobody will take care of my truck as well as I will.:)

[Silver_2000]

Hey... to each his own. No matter where you go, you can run into an employee that is just getting the job done, but cares nothing about how they get it done. They don't care whether they do it right or not. But I do know this. Nobody will take care of my truck as well as I will.:):tu:
15 years ago I changed my own oil too...

Of course 15 years ago I couldnt afford a Lightning or Mobil 1

[Lyfisin]

Do synthetic oils require them to be changed at the same intervals as non-synthetic oils? I poked around Mobil1's web page looking for some info, but came up empty. :hammer:

I asked about the reasoning behind changing oil every 3 months (or whatever is recommended by each manufacturer) and got this answer from Gopher.

"The time interval is there for a very simple reason. If you aren't putting on that many miles during that interval, it is pretty likely that you are doing a lot of short trip driving. As a result, your engine oil may not ever really come up to full operating temperature. Condensation and other byproducts of internal combustion engines will then build up in the oil, since it never really gets warm enough to "burn" or evaporate the condensation and byproducts off. This buildup can eventually deplete some of the addititves in the oil.
Therefore, there is also a time interval on the oil change."

Does this sound reasonable to you all and are the issues the same with synthetics?

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

TO QIK KAT: MOBIL 1 All the way ! And I care. Do some research on the kind of blood you run through your motor, when your truck burns down at 100,000 on the highway between here and El Paso and I pass you screamin WOO HOO!!!! knana Its gonna suck for you.

[LonghornLightning]

so most of you are running mobil 1 5w30.....i'm about to switch over, just hit 5k miles ;D, driving the hell out of this thing.

[Tex Arcana]

Do synthetic oils require them to be changed at the same intervals as non-synthetic oils? I poked around Mobil1's web page looking for some info, but came up empty. :hammer:

I asked about the reasoning behind changing oil every 3 months (or whatever is recommended by each manufacturer) and got this answer from Gopher.

"The time interval is there for a very simple reason. If you aren't putting on that many miles during that interval, it is pretty likely that you are doing a lot of short trip driving. As a result, your engine oil may not ever really come up to full operating temperature. Condensation and other byproducts of internal combustion engines will then build up in the oil, since it never really gets warm enough to "burn" or evaporate the condensation and byproducts off. This buildup can eventually deplete some of the addititves in the oil.
Therefore, there is also a time interval on the oil change."

Does this sound reasonable to you all and are the issues the same with synthetics?


They are similar, since oil and water don't play well together, and can lead to problems if the car is doing short-trips over that period, without the oil bring brought to full temperature to boil off the condensation and lighter volatiles (fuels) that get into it.

as for change intervals, like I said before, "Bob is the Oil Guy" did the test on M1 and got 18k out of it, and they think they pulled the plug too soon. It's a tough product, and as long as you keep your levels up (which, they found out, actually helps prolong the life of the oil), going to 5000 or 7500 isn't a bad thing. HOnestly, on a light-use vehicle, 10k is a good idea, as long as it's not all short-trip, and the vehicle is given the chance to get to full operating temperature most of the time.

Also, if you use M1, use their filter: they use a synthetic filter media and a well-constructed filter, and works well with thier oil.

[Tex Arcana]

so most of you are running mobil 1 5w30.....i'm about to switch over, just hit 5k miles ;D, driving the hell out of this thing.
I put in 10W30, becasue it's hitting sumemrtime. It won't hurt anything at all, and by the time winter hits, I'll swap back to 5W30.

[anglerx007]

"In this article it talks about flashpoint of an oil. It goes on to say that a good oil should not have a flashpoint of less than 400F. Anything less than this value and you can expect oil consumption from vaporization/burn.

Next I went to the motorcraft web site and found the specs on their 5W20 synthetic blend made from "hydrocracking" whatever, on this spec sheet it listed its flashpoint at 365F.

Any thoughts? Which one is BS?"

I was hoping someone would get around to oil consumtion especially with the motorcraft 5W20. Could the consumption have anything to do with the lower "flashpoint"? I beleive the Mobile 1 most are using has a flashpoint well over 400F.

I prefer to change my own oil because it gives me a chance to crawl under the truck and look around. I don't mind getting dirty. Also I'm raising 4 sons and its a good chance for them to get a little hands on experience/with supervision of course.

[Tex Arcana]

"In this article it talks about flashpoint of an oil. It goes on to say that a good oil should not have a flashpoint of less than 400F. Anything less than this value and you can expect oil consumption from vaporization/burn.

Next I went to the motorcraft web site and found the specs on their 5W20 synthetic blend made from "hydrocracking" whatever, on this spec sheet it listed its flashpoint at 365F.

Any thoughts? Which one is BS?"

I was hoping someone would get around to oil consumtion especially with the motorcraft 5W20. Could the consumption have anything to do with the lower "flashpoint"? I beleive the Mobile 1 most are using has a flashpoint well over 400F.

I prefer to change my own oil because it gives me a chance to crawl under the truck and look around. I don't mind getting dirty. Also I'm raising 4 sons and its a good chance for them to get a little hands on experience/with supervision of course.
I'm with the first one... Motorcraft will *always* say their oil is superior; it's the neutral parties that say what an oil SHOULD do (especially when backed up with data and lab results) that tell the absolute truth. If a website obviously shill something that seems too good to be true, it probably is; and if it's a corporate website, it's tehre for advertising only.

[Crawford]

I have been using the Doug method on my truck since I bought it. I beat the crap out of it for 500 miles on the factory oil the went and had it changed to M1 5w30. When WalMart has the new 0w20 I have them put that in. I try to change every 3000 miles but I have been known to go over somewhat and have not had any problems.

When I bought my old 93 mustang it had about 14,000 miles on it and I used M1 10w30 in it the entire time I owned it. When I got rid of it at 98,000 miles it ran like a top and I never had any engine problems with it. I am sold on M1.

[Shiner1]

I just try to keep things "documented" on the FoMoCo books.

Thanks "fellers" ! :tu:
Ronald,

If you want to look over their shoulders while they work and keep a record go to a quick lube joint. There is a new Valvolene shop down the street from me. They give you an ID card with an ID number. Go get an oil change they log your info and it is stored on the CP. You can go back and access it at any time and at any store. WALA...record keeping. They don't use lifts....no scratched bumpers. The best part for me is they'll use any oil I bring them and any filter. I roll in with the RP and filter, they change with my oil/filter, lube the underside and I'm out for $19.00. No oil to dump, no scratched bumpers, my oil/filter and i got to look over their shoulders.

[my2002lightning]

John/Shiner1,

I was going to go with Mobil 1 5w-20, but I could only find 5w-30 at Autozone/O' Reilly's/Wal-Mart, so I ended up going with Royal Purple in 5w-20. That RP "syrup" isn't cheap! $6 / qt. ! :eek:

I think I can change the oil in the L - I used to do it all the time in my college truck. Besides, I need something to get me out of the apt.

I meets all the Ford specs and some of TALON certainly seem to tout it. Went with a Mobil 1 filter (MI-M120 I think - that's what the manual said.)

I filled up at the Shell on 93 down the street right before that - $45 out the door!
Got another little "surprise" from Denton County today, too. :hammer: :(

It's only money...:cool:

Ronald

[LonghornLightning]

Dealership isn't going to give me hell for using 10w-30 are they? void the warranty?? I just want to know before I change the oil, and i'm dropping my truck off tomorrow i'll just ask.

[Tex Arcana]

Dealership isn't going to give me hell for using 10w-30 are they? void the warranty?? I just want to know before I change the oil, and i'm dropping my truck off tomorrow i'll just ask.
Nah, I doubt it very seriously. If for some reason they decided to blame you for your oil usage, it wuld be up to Ford to prove it, not you. Burden of proof rests on THEM.

As long as you use a decent brand oil (Valvoline, RP, M1, etc), you will likely NEVER have a problem, unless you run recycled sludge and never change it. So do'nt worry about it.

[LonghornLightning]

awesome, now it's time to cry and I spend the last night with her.

[Shiner1]

I'm no oil expert but I think any top name synthetic is probably good oil. be it M1, Rp, Amsoil (sp)

[Lyfisin]

Thanks for the info Tex.

I'm quite sure my engine gets up to full temperature quite often. It's not like I only drive it 1 mile at a time. On this oil, I just drove down to my parents and back which is about 1500 miles round trip. I still may not get 3000 in 3 months, but it's good to know I shouldn't have any issues if I let it go an extra month.

Brook

[my2002lightning]

Well,

I've made the switch to Royal Purple on this oil change with the Mobil 1 filter. I did it myself too and I didn't "fork it up"! :rolleyes: :D

I keep thinking .... $6 per quart ?!? :eek2: Better be good stuff.

I'm looking around for a recommended '02 L oil change interval with this oil. Any suggestions? This stuff smells almost as good as Z#ino. :cool:

Going to be looking at oil consumption (if any, we'll see) and any gas consumption changes from here on out.

Ronald

[my2002lightning]

As a follow-up, I've got 1,044.4 miles on the Royal Purple 5w-20 and it's only burning approx. 1/2 qt. every ~1K miles, now.:cool:

I put in 6 qts. of RP at 22,194.9 miles (1/8" from the MAX oil dipstick mark) and 1,044.4 miles later at 23,239.3 miles the oil level was almost to the MIN level.

I added 1/2 qt. of RP 2 days ago and I'm only up to the half-way up the hash-marks.

Tex and I checked out my intake boot, engine the other day and it's all dry.

I'm back into the avg. 11-12 mpg. range now, too. :cool:

Ronald

[dboat]

R man,
Out of curiosity, why did you decide on the Royal Purple? I can understand the move away from the Motorcraft semi syn, but was just curious.. RP isnt the easiest oil to find out there.. and others can be even harder to find..
Dana

[my2002lightning]

D Dude,

Actually, I was looking for Mobil 1 5w-20, but all I could find of the higher-end oils was RP 5w-20 at O'Reilly's. They had 10w-20 Mobil 1, though.

Besides, I was too :flaming: at having rcvd the 2nd ticket that day to go looking for Mobil 1. :crying:

Ronald



R man,
Out of curiosity, why did you decide on the Royal Purple? I can understand the move away from the Motorcraft semi syn, but was just curious.. RP isnt the easiest oil to find out there.. and others can be even harder to find..
Dana

[dboat]

D Dude,

Actually, I was looking for Mobil 1 5w-20, but all I could find of the higher-end oils was RP 5w-20 at O'Reilly's. They had 10w-20 Mobil 1, though.

Besides, I was too :flaming: at having rcvd the 2nd ticket that day to go looking for Mobil 1. :crying:

Ronald

I run the 5w30 or the 0w30 in mine.. the 20 weight part was there to get a little extra gas mileage for the Ford boys when they have to deal with the Feds. But I like having the extra viscosity..
Dana

[Tex Arcana]

As a follow-up, I've got 1,044.4 miles on the Royal Purple 5w-20 and it's only burning approx. 1/2 qt. every ~1K miles, now.:cool:

I put in 6 qts. of RP at 22,194.9 miles (1/8" from the MAX oil dipstick mark) and 1,044.4 miles later at 23,239.3 miles the oil level was almost to the MIN level.

I added 1/2 qt. of RP 2 days ago and I'm only up to the half-way up the hash-marks.

Tex and I checked out my intake boot, engine the other day and it's all dry.

I'm back into the avg. 11-12 mpg. range now, too. :cool:

Ronald


:confused: That is soooo wierd... you aren't sucking a single drop of oil thru the PCV system, and are consuming oil at that rate; I'm sucking oil thru, and don't seem to be consuming a single drop. :confused: