First Dyno!....NEED HELP FROM ALL

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Ok guys, I got my first Dyno run today, and im pretty dissapointed. I got it done at redline in arlington (mostly a rice burner place) It was around 76 deg. outside and I recorded around a 89deg IAT and about a 180 deg IAT2 AFTER the run. My runs consistantly dropped after each run, due to heat I suppose. Anyways this is my first time to read a dyno chart and I cant make out much good from it. The peak HP came out to be 392 and peak TQ was 418 Considering all the mods I've done and I didnt do a stock base run so that kinda sucks, WTF?? Make some light on this guys, im not sure what to think. Also my A/F ratio richened up at around 4200 RPM.

These are my mods

Accufab Throttle body
4# lower pulley
Airraid intake
C&L intake boot
NGK colder plugs
Long tube dynatek Headers
Hi-Flow Cats
Bassani X pipe cat-back
Diablo Predator programmer tuner for the 4# pulley

Shed some light on this guys is this right? Seems very low I was expecting between 410 - 420 rwhp

OK here is the copy of the chart.

f7038.jpg

[Shiner1]

We have just about the same mods, different makes though. I have added elec fan as well and pulled 418 hp on my last dyno. I'm not an expert but maybe a tweeking of the tune will get a few more ponies.

Good luck

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

hmm, thats what I expected to be around, maybe im not way off. Maybe 392 is right. Also my Engine Coolant hit 190 deg. during the run. :(

[microsuck]

well, since it was my truck, i think i can help. first of all, the reason why your tq is so much lower in ratio to your hp, is because of that exhaust you put on it. you dont have enough back pressure. also, your boost actuator needs to be adjusted. i pushed it into the stock pulley position when i put it back and you have a 4# now. you need to move it up and down between runs to figure out where yours makes peak power. mine made the most with the 6# all the way to the top and then down 2mm. you also need an electric fan system and a way to chill your IC fluid more. and water injection and more timing.:)

[microsuck]

also, i just read the chart. whats up with the 440/630 pull listed at the top? unless you got a 75 shot stashed in there, i know that isnt you.

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Yeah, the dude said that was a shift point...why he had it on the print out I dont know. You can see the line where he measured the peak (dosnt look peak to me) and I believe he just didnt move the 3rd run on the correct peak point and the computer saw the shift point. I think I got a bad reading, from the operator to be honest. He would cruise to about 40mph and around 3,000rpm then punch it and do the dyno reading. I thought that was kinda a high RPM starting point, but I could barely understand the guy's english.

Also, your power cooler should chill the IC quite a bit more....190+ IC Temp is pretty high isnt it.

[microsuck]

well, its not great. yeah, it will help a good bit. also, did they have a big fan in front of your truck? yes, it makes a difference. i insist on it.
read this
http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article_id=8020&page_number=1

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Nice article, I dont feel so bad now. And yes he had a rinky dinky fan on it (about 2') high. And it was low (rice burner size) mainly hitting the lower grill, not all the radiator was cooled.

[99WhiteBeast]

392 is very respectable to the rear wheels IMO. Torque is low though.


I have similar mods with stock exhaust and stock TB and pull 392/480.


Not all dyno's are created equal and who ever is making the run needs to know how to "hit it" with these trucks.

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Yeah, im really dissapointed with the torque. I thought Bassani was a good choice for hi-performance exhaust. I guess I guessed wrong. Andrew what kind of muffler did you have on yours?

[Tex Arcana]

Yeah, im really dissapointed with the torque. I thought Bassani was a good choice for hi-performance exhaust. I guess I guessed wrong. Andrew what kind of muffler did you have on yours?
Alright, stop beating yourself up over this. You got some respectable numbers, and since dynos are different, they may be better somewhere else. Calibration matters, and even the guy running the machine matters.

Some of those mods free up alot of breathing, and sometimes easier breathing affects torque negatively.

You're running longtube headers, but *only* a 4# pulley? And you have the stock aftercooler heat exchanger? And no fans? And no bypass switch?

You probably are running a "generic" tune on your chip, and that may be part of your issues. In your shoes, I would replace the stock heat exchanger with a high-capacity one and a pair of fans; put on 6# pulley; and get a *GOOD* Tuner (Terry, you listening???) to tweak the programs. Then I think you'll see some good numbers.

[microsuck]

Yeah, im really dissapointed with the torque. I thought Bassani was a good choice for hi-performance exhaust. I guess I guessed wrong. Andrew what kind of muffler did you have on yours?i chose to get most of my power in the low end and for that reason i used stock headers with carsounds hi-flow cats and dual spintech mufflers with X pipe. mine made 624rwtq using a 50 shot at i believe 3500 rpm

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Well, your right Tex, I should'nt be beating myself up from those #'s. I wonder why on the second run the HP was 376 and the torque went up to 482. I do need a better tuner, there really isnt much "custom" tuning it seems you can do with the predator. Yes, stock heat echange, no fans yet (all these mods are only a few weeks old) and boost bypass has been unplugged (electrically, not mechanically). As for the pulley the only reason I didnt go with the 6# is because I wanted to start out small, and work my way up, when I had money for the fans, heat exchange, and other "better cooling" mods. I thought 6# might be pushing the temp. Thanks for the tip TEX, and I still plan on Kennedale Sunday.

[Tex Arcana]

Well, your right Tex, I should'nt be beating myself up from those #'s. I wonder why on the second run the HP was 376 and the torque went up to 482. I do need a better tuner, there really isnt much "custom" tuning it seems you can do with the predator. Yes, stock heat echange, no fans yet (all these mods are only a few weeks old) and boost bypass has been unplugged (electrically, not mechanically). As for the pulley the only reason I didnt go with the 6# is because I wanted to start out small, and work my way up, when I had money for the fans, heat exchange, and other "better cooling" mods. I thought 6# might be pushing the temp. Thanks for the tip TEX, and I still plan on Kennedale Sunday.
Cool.. likely, the second run had your timing moved based on intake temps to prevent detonation--retarded timing usually means higher torque.

I've read that unplugging the boost bypass isn't such a good idea: even tho you get more instantaneous response becasue you're building boost all the time, the Heaton is also heating your intake air temps ALOT, much more than you get with the boost bypass active. To me, that's a recipe for detonation and disaster; besides, I beleive the gain isn't all that significant, so keeping that additional safety measure there to me is a good idea. ;)

Looking forward to seeing you run, man.. keep up the good work!

[microsuck]

you are confusing the boost bypass with the boost dump actuator. the first is functional, the second is disabled.

[BLACKSUNSHINE]

Much to learn. Thanks for the help.

Mike

[Tex Arcana]

you are confusing the boost bypass with the boost dump actuator. the first is functional, the second is disabled.
Please explain the difference. My understanding is that the actuator activates the valve that dumps the boost back into the blower, similar to a blow-off vavle, but instead of blowing off to atmosphere, it just negates the boost by recycling the air within the blower.

[microsuck]

Please explain the difference. My understanding is that the actuator activates the valve that dumps the boost back into the blower, similar to a blow-off vavle, but instead of blowing off to atmosphere, it just negates the boost by recycling the air within the blower.
Well, thats partially correct. The blower does spin at the same ratio to the crank (due to the belt operation) and when boost is requested, eaton blowers redirect air (that was being recirculated) into the intake. the blower does not "spin up" like a turbo, the air is just "redirected". The noize you hear is not the blower spining faster, it is the sound of the air squeezing back through the vanes in the blower as higher pressure is placed inside the intake manifold. This is the supercharger bypass valve.

The boost dump actuator is a more like a "safety net" and is only tripped by the ECU when it detects there is "dangerous situation" in your engine. This is reffered to as a "boost dump" and requires you to restart your truck before you can build boost again. It opens up a valve that vents all pressure from the blower to the atmosphere.

Point number 7 om this page may help clarify.
http://www.automotive.eaton.com/product/engine_controls/whysuperchargers.html

Andrew

[microsuck]

I did however find a small inconsistency in that article.
"During typical driving conditions, the engine is under boost around 5% of the time"

I have a feeling that dosent apply to this crew. :):evil

[Band]

If they performed your dyno in second gear, I wouldn't do anything to your truck until you get a better/more accurate dyno...

The tq we put out is too much for the rollers in second gear... slipage could be the issue..

I had basicly your same mods except Kooks long tubes instead of dynatechs, and ran 399/505.. 14 degrees timing.. 78 degree weather...

I had 415 tq stock... something ain't right and I seriously doubt its your truck..

[Tex Arcana]

Well, thats partially correct. The blower does spin at the same ratio to the crank (due to the belt operation) and when boost is requested, eaton blowers redirect air (that was being recirculated) into the intake. the blower does not "spin up" like a turbo, the air is just "redirected". The noize you hear is not the blower spining faster, it is the sound of the air squeezing back through the vanes in the blower as higher pressure is placed inside the intake manifold. This is the supercharger bypass valve.

The boost dump actuator is a more like a "safety net" and is only tripped by the ECU when it detects there is "dangerous situation" in your engine. This is reffered to as a "boost dump" and requires you to restart your truck before you can build boost again. It opens up a valve that vents all pressure from the blower to the atmosphere.

Point number 7 om this page may help clarify.
http://www.automotive.eaton.com/product/engine_controls/whysuperchargers.html

Andrew
Here's another explanation of how it works: http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/race_prep/powertrain/boost_bypass.htm

THis, and a few other things I"ve read, the salient points are: #1, boost bypass is there for efficiency (vacuum actuated), and #2, it's being used during the 1-2 shift, to soften the "impact" on the driveline (most especially the tranny).

I dont think that the Ford seup has an atmospheric boost dump, instead just opening the bypass valve to dump out the boost and reduce power.