Aftermarket Superchargers??????

[SpeedyBolt]

I was wondering how many of you guys are running aftermarket superchargers on your trucks, also can you run a KB on a stock short-block or is that just asking to throw a rod? :confused:

[Tex Arcana]

I am not, but I've heard that if you buy a KB or Whipple, you cna drop them on with stock pullies and get at least 50hp out of it. Now, that's what I've *heard*, from a few people who've done it on both Cobras and Lightnings, but I'm not 100% certain that you can do this without changing programs.

www.whipplesuperchargers.com has a kit, so does KB, check 'em out. ;)

[tliss]

You should be OK putting a KB on top of a stock block as long as you don't get too crazy with the boost or the tune. A few of the guys here had or have a KB on a stock block now with huge gains, but the tune is very important.

A few of us also have ported Eatons. You don't get quite the gain that you would from a KB, but it is a less expensive alternative with a decent gain.

Tom

[02BOLT]

I could damn near write a book on the do's and don'ts of stock longblock Lightnings. I'll hit on a couple of quick points....

1. If you're gonna go with an aftermarket S/C, IMHO, the KB is the most tried and true aftermarket S/C out there for our trucks. This is in terms of ease of installation, and most of the major tuners have a pretty good handle on tuning them.
2. Make SURE you have a good(SAFE) tune(Talk to Terry about this one)
3. On a STOCK bottom end truck...DO NOT run more than 15psi with the KB. My truck made 480+RWHP at 15psi and ran 11.60's at 117 mph, with all the supporting bolt-ons, on an otherwise stock longblock(bottom end and head/cam assembly).
4. Even with all of this taken into account....there's still a risk of hurting something at these power levels. It's just a risk you have to ask yourself if you're willing to take.

To achieve 15psi, I ran a "2lb" lower with a 3" upper pulley. This same pulley combo on an Eaton will only produce 11psi or so. This is just one example of how much more efficient the KB is than the stock blower.

You simply have to be VERY AWARE of the limits of your stock hardware and stay within them, thus giving them EVERY opportunity to survive at elevated power levels.

That's the short of it in terms of hardware. There's more to it in terms of the do's and don'ts of "driving habits" that you MUST know. Once again talk to Terry at Performance Research. He can get you headed in the right direction.

Hope this helps...:tu:
Rob

[SpeedyBolt]

Does anybody locally deal KB? i tried to find out how much they were on thier website but there was no pricing available.

[99WhiteBeast]

Does anybody locally deal KB? i tried to find out how much they were on thier website but there was no pricing available.
I beleive Terry at PR has one sitting on his shelf for sale right now.

[Tex Arcana]

I could damn near write a book on the do's and don'ts of stock longblock Lightnings. I'll hit on a couple of quick points....

1. If you're gonna go with an aftermarket S/C, IMHO, the KB is the most tried and true aftermarket S/C out there for our trucks. This is in terms of ease of installation, and most of the major tuners have a pretty good handle on tuning them.
2. Make SURE you have a good(SAFE) tune(Talk to Terry about this one)
3. On a STOCK bottom end truck...DO NOT run more than 15psi with the KB. My truck made 480+RWHP at 15psi and ran 11.60's at 117 mph, with all the supporting bolt-ons, on an otherwise stock longblock(bottom end and head/cam assembly).
4. Even with all of this taken into account....there's still a risk of hurting something at these power levels. It's just a risk you have to ask yourself if you're willing to take.

To achieve 15psi, I ran a "2lb" lower with a 3" upper pulley. This same pulley combo on an Eaton will only produce 11psi or so. This is just one example of how much more efficient the KB is than the stock blower.

You simply have to be VERY AWARE of the limits of your stock hardware and stay within them, thus giving them EVERY opportunity to survive at elevated power levels.

That's the short of it in terms of hardware. There's more to it in terms of the do's and don'ts of "driving habits" that you MUST know. Once again talk to Terry at Performance Research. He can get you headed in the right direction.

Hope this helps...:tu:
Rob

Rob, is my assertion that slapping on a KB or other screwblower with stock pullies possible with stock tune? I've heard/read that it's so, but I'm not certain, and would like some feedback on that.

[02BOLT]

Rob, is my assertion that slapping on a KB or other screwblower with stock pullies possible with stock tune? I've heard/read that it's so, but I'm not certain, and would like some feedback on that.
Folks seem to have their own theories in reference to tunes. IMO, anytime you change something that will directly affect the amount of air entering the engine, it is a good idea to ensure that your tune is up to task.

The KB with stock sized pulleys will produce upwards of 4-5 more psi(depending on air conditions), than the stock Eaton will. This is considerably more boost than the stock tuning is set up for in terms of fuel, or timing.

So, to answer your question, I would NOT run a KB on the stock tuning, even with "only" the stock pulleys. With the stock pulleys, the KB will still produce 12-13 psi at the shiftpoint. The KB builds boost concurrently with rpm, it does not level off. The higher you spin the motor, the more boost that thing will produce. Also I'd limit the shift rpm to 5300 or so on a stock bottom end, to further reduce the stress on the reciprocating assembly.

On an otherwise BONE STOCK motor, with the stock pulley sizes, a KB equipped L will easily produce over 400hp at the rear wheels. With the normal host of bolt-ons (exhaust, CAI, E-fan, etc...) on a stock longblock, with the stock pulley sizes, a KB equipped motor will easily knock down b/w 430-450 RWHP, depending on how conservative/aggressive the tune is.

Later...

[cpeapea]

Ported Eaton here:d

[StormShadow]

Apten here.

[WA 2 FST]

So, how much is the KB blower? Even if you're making 15-16psi with it (I assume more efficiently than a stock Eaton making the same amount of boost), can you do so on 93 octane?

[02BOLT]

So, how much is the KB blower? Even if you're making 15-16psi with it (I assume more efficiently than a stock Eaton making the same amount of boost), can you do so on 93 octane?
Sure you can. I had a "pump" gas tune and a "race" gas tune. The KB itself costs around $3K new. By the time you get it set up with a tune, you can figure a couple hundred more bucks. I know Terry was advertising one for $2500 installed and tuned last week. That is a smoking deal!:eek2: I paid considerably more for the exact same set-up.

It is a true DIRECT bolt-on that makes a world of difference(and for $3K it should!) The initial hit at WOT is similar to the Eaton(at or below 15psi), but once she gets going, she pulls her a$$ off through the mid-range and up top. It basically picks up where the Eaton lets off and just goes to town! It has its own distinct sound as well. Damnit! I miss my truck!:crying:

Later...

[Mark #2]

Yeah, what Rob said, I run the KB. 4 lb lower and a 3.25" upper. stock internals.

However, I did post one dyno running on the stock 2000 Cux2, with a 90 Maf(factory computer is for an 80), and no chip:eek2: , just for everyone's amuzement.

Data is data, make your own conclusion if you need a chip or not. I run around everyday with no chip, then install one for the track to get some more timing and fuel.

Regards,
Mark

[Tex Arcana]

Yeah, what Rob said, I run the KB. 4 lb lower and a 3.25" upper. stock internals.

However, I did post one dyno running on the stock 2000 Cux2, with a 90 Maf(factory computer is for an 80), and no chip:eek2: , just for everyone's amuzement.

Data is data, make your own conclusion if you need a chip or not. I run around everyday with no chip, then install one for the track to get some more timing and fuel.

Regards,
Mark

Post linkage to the dyno sheets, pls. :)

[Mark #2]

http://www.talonclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5506&highlight=dyno

[WA 2 FST]

Thanks, Mark.

If you don't mind me asking... how many miles are on your motor total, and how many miles are on it since the KB install.

Have you retuned the truck? The no chip tune is the best one of all, IMHO. Of course, you're not getting the rpm out of it that you are with the chipped tunes, so I'm sure it would run lean on the top end above 5300 like the other ones do. I do not agree that it is too lean on the bottom end. Until you build enormous amounts of cylinder pressure (rpm + boost) you do no need a super-rich A/F ratio. It could be a bit richer than it is, but its not that bad.

If 14-15lbs from a KB is not going to kill the motor, I would be inclined to do it. My L is my daily driver, but I do not beat on it at every stoplight. I just have to wonder how reliable the KB blower is compared to the Eaton. The old KBs on the Fox-3 Mustangs sucked big time. I'm sure the Blowzilla units are far superior, though.

[Mark #2]

Wes,
We didn't run it all the way up on the no chip run, not knowing what to expect.

22K on the motor, 5K since the KB. Drive it everyday it doesn't rain.
Mark

[Tex Arcana]

Thanks, Mark.

If you don't mind me asking... how many miles are on your motor total, and how many miles are on it since the KB install.

Have you retuned the truck? The no chip tune is the best one of all, IMHO. Of course, you're not getting the rpm out of it that you are with the chipped tunes, so I'm sure it would run lean on the top end above 5300 like the other ones do. I do not agree that it is too lean on the bottom end. Until you build enormous amounts of cylinder pressure (rpm + boost) you do no need a super-rich A/F ratio. It could be a bit richer than it is, but its not that bad.

If 14-15lbs from a KB is not going to kill the motor, I would be inclined to do it. My L is my daily driver, but I do not beat on it at every stoplight. I just have to wonder how reliable the KB blower is compared to the Eaton. The old KBs on the Fox-3 Mustangs sucked big time. I'm sure the Blowzilla units are far superior, though.


The twin-screw, by its very design, is more efficient and has less friction, so the screws should be fine.THe KBs I've seen have had some issues, such as oil being pushed past the seals at higher boost levels, but they may have been fixed. The Whipple units use Eaton drive internals and seals, so may be better than the KB in reliability.