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FRDRCING
10-09-2004, 03:20 PM
Just got back from the dyno and the number's seem to be a little low. The last time I ran at the dyno shop the elivation deal was not right. So the reading I got was no were near acurate. I only put up 359 and 386 tq and that was with the chip on. My mods are. 1999 Lightning
4# lower
JLP Ram Air
95 MAF
C&L Inlet
Accufab
Ported Eaton
FTVB
2400 Stall
4:10's
Pace Setter Shorties
JDM Silver Bullet.

The weird thing is my a/f graph looks like a heart beat going up and down and above 14. Not sure If im not getting enough fuel and lose that much power. When I ran it on street side of the chip only saw 341 and 386 tq. I am going to call SAL on monday and see if he can chime me in on what he did to the chip or maybee just need bigger fuel pumps :confused: . But the guy who ownes the dyno said he would hook it up after I get my chip fixed or whatever needed to fix the problem for free pulls.

cpeapea
10-09-2004, 03:48 PM
numbers are definitly low, it doesnt seem like you would be running out of fuel enough to need new pumps. has your truck been tuned for the maf? i know some of them are kinda goofy to tune with anyways. i heard the only good ones out right now are the SCT 92's

Tex Arcana
10-09-2004, 04:10 PM
Post your dyno sheet when you get it.

Where did you go for your run?

FRDRCING
10-09-2004, 04:13 PM
I went over to mikes exclusive customs in hurst out of 26 hwy across from formans general strore. As soon as I get it scaned in will post it up. His dyno is a inground dynojet. So not sure what is going on.

How much psi can the stock fuel pumps handel?

Tex Arcana
10-09-2004, 04:38 PM
I went over to mikes exclusive customs in hurst out of 26 hwy across from formans general strore. As soon as I get it scaned in will post it up. His dyno is a inground dynojet. So not sure what is going on.

How much psi can the stock fuel pumps handel?


One thought is that they didn't get your truck tied down right, and with the weather and wet tires, you may hav had some slippage.

FRDRCING
10-09-2004, 09:28 PM
Here is the dyno sheet form today's dyno. The a/f is acting crazy as all get out :confused: . I talked to a guy this afternoon afte the run's and he said all I need is some better fuel pumps and should be fine. I was reading on JDM's website and say not needed unless 450+ and on side two of the chip should be there.

Tex Arcana
10-09-2004, 10:46 PM
Here is the dyno sheet form today's dyno. The a/f is acting crazy as all get out :confused: . I talked to a guy this afternoon afte the run's and he said all I need is some better fuel pumps and should be fine. I was reading on JDM's website and say not needed unless 450+ and on side two of the chip should be there.

that air-fuel is scary. :eek2: Almost looks like the airflow is maxing out the voltage of the meter, then something resets that, and it starts all over again... yeah, I know, talking out my a55, but that's what it looks like, with it spiking that hard and that regularly.

HOw exactly do they read the air-fuel ratio, anyhow??

FRDRCING
10-10-2004, 09:17 AM
They have a machine that is connected with the dyno machine that reads it. It is a peice of metal that they stick in the tial pipes and somehow it reads it. I heard from another guy over in Lightningrodder.com who is making 500hp on stock fuel lines. Said I should not need bigger fuel pumps unless running a KB or MB. He told me to check to see if I have a cloged injector or maybee the maf is not reading correct. But I am gonna call sal on monday and see what he thiks since he tuned the chip.

99WhiteBeast
10-10-2004, 09:57 AM
I'm not convinced a bigger MAF does anything but cause problems. I don't think its needed until you get way up in the power range. Put the stock MAF on and pull the chip and you should see similar numbers that you ran.


With a 2lb and CAI =355/434
With a 4lb,chip, CAI = 390/482

FRDRCING
10-10-2004, 10:09 AM
This is a post that I got back from a guy on lightningrodder.com Im gonna try it but not sure why I would need race fuel :confused: . The dyno ran fine, because a guy brought his HD up there and dynoed it and was consistant across the board all three runs. By they way he put down 322 stock all three runs, and had a steady a/f raito so the dyno is working it's my truck. But on the way home the truck was running fine but I was not giving it any boost due to the rain.


I bet the Dyno or a Connection was screwed up
You have a nice steady constant gain of Power, and it's a nice
smooth build up. I refuse to believe the HP and Torque developed
and built up "that smooth and even" with an AF jumping all over like that.

My Guess
FAULTY DYNO RESULTS

My opinion, (and very cheap and quick to do)

Pull Chip out, and put back in, (making sure it's in good)
Change Fuel Filter
Buy ""A GOOD"" Injector Cleaner and put a can in the tank
Buy a good $20.00 - $40.00 in racing fuel
Drive the truck around a week

AND GO TO A DIFFERANT DYNO
I believe you WILL NOT be disappointed

Silver_2000
10-10-2004, 10:26 AM
Be very careful - NO matter what caused the jumping around if the A/F was even a little accurate you are WAY WAY WAY lean ... Your A/F never went uunder 14 you want it down near-under 12 ....

My bet is that the AF was screwed up by a problem with the sensor - BUT if it was accurate at any point you are WAY lean

Get it looked at elsewhere ASAP - Till then I would stay away from fulll throttle

Doug

BLACKSUNSHINE
10-10-2004, 03:10 PM
That dyno at MIkes exclusive custom is brand new, and I've ran my truck there over 6 times, all were consistant, and the A/F seemed very accurate. It seems strange that the readout was that jumpy, but I would have a hard time believing that its the dyno, or operators there. Did Mike (the black guy with tattoos run it for you? Do you think a problem with the exhaust system of cats would cause that A/F jump? But I would say defidently call sal and see what he says.

FRDRCING
10-10-2004, 06:12 PM
Mike did run the truck and was not sure what was going on. They ran a buddy's truck right after mine and the a/f reading was pretty consistant. I changed the fuel filter today and put some injector cleaner in there as well. But yeah im gonna call sal and see what he thinks. I am almost affraid to run it again on the dyno tell I know it's safe again. So looks llike a/f ratio and boost gague is in the future.

cpeapea
10-10-2004, 09:30 PM
dont waste your money on an a/f gauge unless its a wideband kit

byrd35us
10-11-2004, 09:53 AM
com'on now my Air/Fuel gauge is the best light show I have ever bought knana

BLACKSUNSHINE
10-11-2004, 02:58 PM
com'on now my Air/Fuel gauge is the best light show I have ever bought knana


Thats the truth...anybody want to buy one? :rolleyes:

FRDRCING
10-11-2004, 09:09 PM
I just checked my fuel pressure and it is okay. Getting 32 psi at idel and not full throtlle but very close is 45 psi so the fuel pumps are okay. I faxed sal a copy of my dyno sheet and was going to see what is going on with my chip.

BLACKSUNSHINE
10-12-2004, 09:25 AM
Good luck!

FRDRCING
10-12-2004, 09:36 AM
Thanks

Tex Arcana
10-12-2004, 12:03 PM
They have a machine that is connected with the dyno machine that reads it. It is a peice of metal that they stick in the tial pipes and somehow it reads it. I heard from another guy over in Lightningrodder.com who is making 500hp on stock fuel lines. Said I should not need bigger fuel pumps unless running a KB or MB. He told me to check to see if I have a cloged injector or maybee the maf is not reading correct. But I am gonna call sal on monday and see what he thiks since he tuned the chip.

Very likely (I would appreciate some correction here by someon who knows better, tho), it's some form of oxygen sensor shoved up the pipe, maybe a wideband. When you look at the A/F curves, without the spikes, it's in the 14.5:1 range; but, on second look, the spikes *could* occur at the shift points, and the last spikes seem to coincide with fuel cut at redline. I'm still puzzled, tho, I wish I were there to hear the truck, and see where things were happening. I mean, most dyno's on Lightnings start at about 3500rpm, because of the automatic; this one starts at about 1500rpm.

Hm.

Silver_2000
10-12-2004, 01:26 PM
He is still screwed if his lowest A/f was 14.5

Thats way to lean

Tex Arcana
10-12-2004, 01:32 PM
He is still screwed if his lowest A/f was 14.5

Thats way to lean

yah... absolutely. I'm to the point of saying the dyno itself (sensor/machine/computer) was NFG. :hammer:

jeff56
10-12-2004, 01:40 PM
I was the guy with the HD there. Actually, I forgot to tell Mike to run A/F on mine. At least it's not on my printout, anyway. Do you remember seeing it on the monitor? As it was my first dyno, I spent most of my time worrying about my motor spontaneously combusting, so I wasn't paying attention to anything else! :D

It's possible the A/F sniffer was messed up on the dyno, BUT that still doesn't explain the loss of power. Most of my knowledge is just from the reading I've done, but my bet is there's something wrong with the tune that's affecting both the A/F and the power output.

cpeapea
10-12-2004, 08:16 PM
take it to another dyno, that will atleast remove that possibility from the equation. if its still way lean, then you need to get that taken care of. im sure you would hear som detonation with something that lean too.

FRDRCING
10-12-2004, 08:32 PM
I talked to sal today and he said he has never seen that before. So im taking it to terry on the second.

03LightningRocks
10-12-2004, 10:17 PM
take it to another dyno, that will atleast remove that possibility from the equation. if its still way lean, then you need to get that taken care of. im sure you would hear som detonation with something that lean too.

I'm with Gaven on this one. I had a similar thing happen to my dyno graphs at a place called Kwik Kar in Richardson. What was happening there was, the lead they clamp over the wire leading to the spark plug, to pick up a signal to help determin RPM's, was not picking up the curent properly. My AF's looked just like that...and even some of them failed to print all together.

I would hae said something sooner but I was looking for the graphs....I couldn't find them:( .


Terry is a good next move:tu: . He'll get to the bottom of it. Let us all know.



Rocks:cool:

FRDRCING
10-12-2004, 10:57 PM
I think I found one source for the problem. When I was putting my blower back on after haveing it ported dad was in a hury to get it all back togather :flaming: . Well the truck was running fine, got on it a few times and everything seemd to be okay. Well there was this one vacum hose line that comes on the dump valve. Well we could not find were it went and did numerous search's. Well found the line under the inlet peice were it goes finaly and That is the only other thing that would be robbing me of 60+hp. But will call sal back tommorow and let ask him as well. But is possible about what you said rocks said is the clam may had a bad connection when he hooked it up as well.

03LightningRocks
10-12-2004, 11:06 PM
I think I found one source for the problem. When I was putting my blower back on after haveing it ported dad was in a hury to get it all back togather :flaming: . Well the truck was running fine, got on it a few times and everything seemd to be okay. Well there was this one vacum hose line that comes on the dump valve. Well we could not find were it went and did numerous search's. Well found the line under the inlet peice were it goes finaly and That is the only other thing that would be robbing me of 60+hp. But will call sal back tommorow and let ask him as well. But is possible about what you said rocks said is the clam may had a bad connection when he hooked it up as well.I didn't realize you had taken the blower off for porting.....there have been a few cases of the butterfly valve that controls boost dump sticking open. I would check it if it where mine. This would sure explain the H.P. loss. As for the A/F.....I am not sure about how that would be affected.


One more comment. I am not sure which vacuum hose was off, but if it's the one I think it is, it would actually keep the bypass from kicking in. I unplug mine to keep it from dumping boost.
Rocks

FRDRCING
10-12-2004, 11:22 PM
it is the hose that plugs under the inlet that comes from the dump accuator that sits to the left of the blower. so probally is what you think it is.

Link to picture

http://www.lightningrodder.com/components/com_forum/forum.php?page=viewtopic&t=54

Picture is at the bottom of page.

Silver_2000
10-13-2004, 07:40 AM
it is the hose that plugs under the inlet that comes from the dump accuator that sits to the left of the blower. so probally is what you think it is.

Link to picture

http://www.lightningrodder.com/components/com_forum/forum.php?page=viewtopic&t=54

Picture is at the bottom of page.
Cant see the photos unless you register

FRDRCING
10-13-2004, 08:21 AM
I found were the hose goes. It plugs up under the inlet pipe and I am not sure if that would cause the a/f raito to jump like that.

Tex Arcana
10-13-2004, 11:10 AM
it is the hose that plugs under the inlet that comes from the dump accuator that sits to the left of the blower. so probally is what you think it is.

Link to picture

http://www.lightningrodder.com/components/com_forum/forum.php?page=viewtopic&t=54

Picture is at the bottom of page.

No pics to see.. how 'bout linking them?

Tex Arcana
10-13-2004, 11:10 AM
I found were the hose goes. It plugs up under the inlet pipe and I am not sure if that would cause the a/f raito to jump like that.

It might, if you had a vacuum leak from that...

03LightningRocks
10-13-2004, 02:48 PM
I found were the hose goes. It plugs up under the inlet pipe and I am not sure if that would cause the a/f raito to jump like that.

I really don't think it would. If I read your last post correctly, I thought you had said the fellow at the dyno made a comment about the clamp on the coil pack wire not getting a good connection. This would definnitly cause the A/F to jump up and down like that. It is almost a 100% that the reason was in the equipment reading the A/F. The power loss was probably due to the boost bypass opening up....either due to the vacuum hose being unconnected or the butterfly is stuck open.

Either way, I would still let Terry check it out. Better safe than sorry:cool: .

Rocks;)

FRDRCING
10-13-2004, 09:01 PM
That is what someone was telling me about the clamp not getting a good connection. The truck seems to be running better sense I put the vacum line back on, but will probally wait till terry changes the plugs and have him look it over and see what he thinks.

SpeedyBolt
10-20-2004, 05:26 PM
guys I also dynoed my truck at that dyno and everything was just fine on mine!!! I didn't have to ask for them to monitor the A/F they did it on thir own. I know it has already been said but I really don't think this was a dyno problem!

L8 APEX
10-21-2004, 11:03 PM
THose C&L housings take some work to tune correctly. Let me know if you still have problems.

BC Lightning
10-21-2004, 11:07 PM
the C&L intake elbow, what C&L are you talking about?

L8 APEX
10-21-2004, 11:15 PM
the C&L intake elbow, what C&L are you talking about? That C&L MAF housing like what you got breezy