View Full Version : Blower pulley: To cage or not to cage?
Crawford
08-12-2002, 09:38 AM
Well its getting about that time to consider a blower pully change. Right now I have a #2 caged JDM lower and I am looking to go for a #4. I would love to see opinions on whether to go with caged or uncaged. I am having a tough time deciding. Please help!
I know if the decision is caged there is only one vendor to purchase from. If the decision is to go uncaged, is there any vendor that makes a better uncaged pulley than the rest?
I am also planning to go with a plug change to the NGK TR-5s which I hear is a good idea if you go #4.
Should I go with a #6 and the TR-6s?
HELP!
Mark #2
08-12-2002, 10:00 AM
I would go uncaged #4, TR6s, one range colder than stock. TR5s are the same as stock.
The #4 generates alot of heat, for very short burst the #6 may be faster, but after a few burst the engine will be so hot that it's advantage will dissipate.
Crawford
08-12-2002, 10:05 AM
Here is a piece of info from PSPs site:
http://www.powersurgeperformance.net/pulley_info.htm
Take a good look at the belts for both the blower and the front engine accessory drive. If you look closely, you will notice that you CANNOT change the rear motor belt without REMOVING the blower pulley!! That means if you get stuck on the side of the road needing a belt that drives your alternator, water pump, A/C and power steering pump, you would have to bring your truck to a Ford dealer for them to replace it and hope they have the special tool to remove the lower pulley!! Our PSP lower pulley does away with the pulley "cage" and bolts directly to the harmonic balancer. Since the cage is no longer there, you can remove the rear belt, by simply removing the blower belt. And if you are wondering if you really NEED that pulley cage, it was made to house the rubber mounted stock lower pulley designed to cut down on blower "whine" for production purposes. We've been running our lower pulley since May 00, with no problems at all. Plus, all aftermarket blower kits for regular F-150s with Trition 5.4s since 97 use the direct bolt on pulley, with no reported problems and no need for the caged pulley design.
There is a #5 uncaged pulley, maybe that should be my compromise eh? Sounds like a good idea on the TR6 Mark. Does anyone know what gap to set that plug at? Does the plug gap differ for different pulley sizes?
98Cobra
08-12-2002, 10:26 AM
Hah. I laugh at anyone who thinks the dealer has a special tool to remove the lower pulley.
Bankston calls it a crow bar, right Doug? :D
Mark #2
08-12-2002, 11:03 AM
Check this out, especially the last post on engine rebuild.
http://www.f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=86587
Autothrottle
08-12-2002, 12:11 PM
Sam,
Get an Uncaged pulley!!! Well, thats if you can get the #2 off your L :eek:!!!!!
Before you go out and spend the cash for a new pulley I would try to break the #2 loose..........LOL......I'm NOT kidding.
If you do get it off, let me know............SHHHH............I have the "tool" here at the house. That way you can put the lower back to stock.
I would go with the TR-6's or the IT-20's with a #4. I ran the TR-5's with a #4 and....Well they didnt last very long.
http://community.webshots.com/r1/2/72/74/29727274SyCDvGulkv_ph.jpg
Good Luck
L8 APEX
08-12-2002, 12:20 PM
The uncaged does seem to wear thrust bearings. Out of all the internet posts and my own truck I have seen no verified failures. A LOT of guys run the ASP pulleys for a long time without trouble. If you go that way I will hook you up:tu: Also TR5;s are too HOT. TR6's gapped at a close 40;)
If you can get the caged +2 off:D. Same deal with the interchangable design getting the base cage is still a mother *!
Autothrottle
08-12-2002, 12:24 PM
Tr-5's are too cold:confused:........You mean Hot???????
Moonshine
08-12-2002, 12:41 PM
You're only wanting to go to the 4#'er cause you're scared about our grudge match. :p Won't help, so no cryin' when I stomp you with my lowly stock pulleys. :banana:
Mark #2
08-12-2002, 12:48 PM
Yeah what Autothrottle said.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overviewp2.asp
Higher Compression Ratios/Forced Induction will elevate spark plug tip and in-cylinder temperatures
Compression can be increased by performing any one of the following modifications:
a) reducing combustion chamber volume (i.e.: domed pistons, smaller chamber heads, mill ing heads, etc.)
b) adding forced induction (Nitrous, Turbocharging or Supercharging)
c) camshaft change
As compression increases, a colder heat range plug, higher fuel octane, and careful attention to igni-tion timing and air/fuel ratios are necessary. Failure to select a colder spark plug can lead to spark plug/engine damage
wesman
08-12-2002, 01:59 PM
I say go with an interchangeable setup. I have the LFP interchangeable lower 4 and 6#. It'll take me all of about 15 minutes to swap from my 4# to the 6# when I feel so inclined. I also went with the TR6, it is a colder heat range than the TR5's. If you decide to go this route get a Gatorback belt from Autozone #4080675 .It's is 1.5 longer than stock, people say that you can use the stock belt with the 4#(stretched too far IMO) , I chose to get this one because I can use it with relative ease on the 4# and it also fits with the 6#.
If you need any more info let me know.
--wes
Logan
08-12-2002, 04:00 PM
I ran Denso IT-20's with my uncaged 4lb'er on my 99. Never had any problems with the plugs... They rock.
L8 APEX
08-12-2002, 04:40 PM
Everyone can't afford the good plugs Logan:D
wesman
08-12-2002, 05:21 PM
What would be the difference in those and the TR6 ? I know of course "they're better" is the common response . Have there been any head to head tests at all on the common plugs that are run in the Lightning community ?
It would be interesting to see a side by side comparison that measured things that seem to be most important in a plug:
Does one transfer the combustion heat faster than another?
Does one misfire more often than the other ?
Does one of them pre-ignite often , causing detonation ?
Does one seem to foul more often ?
I guess just the basic comparisons would be nice.....just because something costs 10x as much doesn't mean it is 10x better.
--wes
blueoval01
08-12-2002, 06:41 PM
Originally posted by wesman
It would be interesting to see a side by side comparison that measured things that seem to be most important in a plug:
--wes
It's right here at your finger tips.
Doug has a very good statistical report on plugs here:
Plug comparison (http://www.svtlightnings.com/sparkplugmisfires.htm)
:D
wesman
08-12-2002, 07:32 PM
Wonder what tool he used to gather that info. The Densos seem to do pretty well....wonder if he pulled that info off a Denso site...lol j/k
For 1/10th of the price I think the TR6's fare pretty well....I do find it hard to believe that the Densos have less than 5 misfires at every RPM.
--wes
Silver_2000
08-12-2002, 09:37 PM
:tu:
blueoval01
08-12-2002, 10:14 PM
Originally posted by wesman
Wonder what tool he used to gather that info........
--wes
Doug didn't do the testing. It came from a independant off 150online. Here, I believe is the original thread.
Plug testing (http://www.f150online.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=511380#post511380)
spdfreak11
08-13-2002, 12:27 AM
Crawford had this in his link from PSP's site . . .
Refers to the pros and cons of caged over uncaged . . .
Supposedly the only purpose of the cage is to muffle the whine of the blower . . . and without it allows easier access to the accessory belt. . . just my 2cents
I've been looking at a JDM 4# . .not the kit . .just the pulley . .and you can buy the tools necessary for the swap too . .if not from them from PSP. :tu:
Then of course if JDM punks out and doesn't sell me the pulley uncaged I'll go with PSP . . .
Ron C
08-27-2002, 09:17 AM
Where can I pick up those Denso Plugs at, and what's the cost of them?
Also the part number would be helpful....
Thanks,
Ron
Silver_2000
08-27-2002, 09:35 AM
Originally posted by spdfreak11
Crawford had this in his link from PSP's site . . .
Refers to the pros and cons of caged over uncaged . . .
Supposedly the only purpose of the cage is to muffle the whine of the blower . . . and without it allows easier access to the accessory belt. . . just my 2cents
I've been looking at a JDM 4# . .not the kit . .just the pulley . .and you can buy the tools necessary for the swap too . .if not from them from PSP. :tu:
Then of course if JDM punks out and doesn't sell me the pulley uncaged I'll go with PSP . . .
If you look at JDMs pulley they cant sell it without the cage...
No way to attach it
Doug
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