Built Motor on It's way

[03LightningRocks]

My new built motor is on it's way and should be in Terry's posession by the end of next week.

This one will be top to bottom race ready. It should easily put down 700 H.P. once we get it tuned properly for 20+ lbs of boost. I'll be looking to run some 10's by Feb.

Now for the question.........does anyone have any suggestions on a source for a cage???? I would like to get it done before I head to the season opener in Orlando come March.

My second question. I am wanting to hear some suggestions on suspenion changes that would help with traction on the launch. I am already having trouble with the tires wanting to boil off on the launch and this new motor will easily be putting out around 100 H.P. more. Hep me...hep me........


Rocks

[WA 2 FST]

Wolfe Racecraft for the cage. They are local, I believe, and they do excellent work, and understand _precisely_ the NHRA requirements. They won't take any shortcuts.

I thought you already had a built motor. Did you sell your current one?

[03LightningRocks]

Wolfe Racecraft for the cage. They are local, I believe, and they do excellent work, and understand _precisely_ the NHRA requirements. They won't take any shortcuts.

I thought you already had a built motor. Did you sell your current one?

Yes, my current one is sold. I wanted to get cams and ported heads. By the time I spent the money to take the motor out and do all that I wanted to it....I would have been real close to what I am out the new motor. The fellow that bought the old motor has the ability to get the heads and cams done for much less than I would have spent. He also isn't having to pay for R&R on the motor. So it works out good for two of us...:) .


Back to the cage....do you have a phone number and location for them. It sounds like I may want to go see them. Meeting the NHRA requirements is a must....I will be subject to some scrutiny by tech next season. I think I pissed off the head tech. Thanks for the help Wes.

If you come up with any pearls of wisdom on the suspension, I would love to hear them:beer:


Rocks

[WA 2 FST]

Ask and you shall receive, brother Ron. :)


http://www.wolferacecraft.com/

[03LightningRocks]

Ask and you shall receive, brother Ron. :)


http://www.wolferacecraft.com/

You da man Wes.....Thanks Bunches.....:beer:

[cpeapea]

no sense in pulling the motor to do a head and cam swap, thats kinda going out of your way. but newer is better, considering it wont have been beaten on by 3 different people:evil jk.


Ron, you will have some wicked beast on your hands. what cams are you going with?

[03LightningRocks]

no sense in pulling the motor to do a head and cam swap, thats kinda going out of your way. but newer is better, considering it wont have been beaten on by 3 different people:evil jk.


Ron, you will have some wicked beast on your hands. what cams are you going with?

I really didn't want to have to mess with doing it myself. You have an edge on me there....:d .

The cams are a "shop grind"...I suppose the best way to describe them is to call them a 2.75 stage cam...LOL. The lift is a stage 3...but the duration has been modified. I may have that screwed up a little...so suffice it to say, they are a stage 3 with the ability to idle a bit more like a stage 2.

[Flats Man]

Ron, the cams in my Regular Ole F150 are 220-230 duration and .525-.575 lift, intake and exhaust! They turn on at around 3000 rpm and go all the way to heaven! Pick your valve springs carefully!

[L8 APEX]

Ron, the cams in my Regular Ole F150 are 220-230 duration and .525-.575 lift, intake and exhaust! They turn on at around 3000 rpm and go all the way to heaven! Pick your valve springs carefully!He bought a complete motor from your buddy Jim:D

[03LightningRocks]

Yep...........complete...ready to install...motor...LOL. Warranty and all...right Terry;) ???

On the cams, they are suppose to be closer to a stage 3 than a stage 2....the grind is what JDM refers to as their, "shop grind". It is the most aggressive set up they offer that still maintains streetability. The set up is the one that all these new 10 second JDM trucks have.

We will soon find out.


Rocks

[cpeapea]

interestingly enough ive heard that the stage 3s will idle well enough for street use, mostly probably due to the supercharger grinds having somewhat less of an overlap the N/A cams.

If i remember right:
Lift is good for torque, especially on ported heads. Lobe lift is the actual lift on the cam lobe, to find valve lift multiply Lobe lift x rocker ratio = valve lift. the only problem is the way our valve train geometry is setup, the rocker ration isnt static its more rather dynamic. but if i remember right its somewhere averaged to about 1.8.

Duration is how long the valve stays open. this plays a big factor in how the cam idles and cruises. The bigger the number the lumpier and worse the idle will be. generally the duration counts as the valve being open at least .050 open, but not always. sometimes advertised numbers can be embellished.

Lobe seperation angle is how much the intake and exhaust valves overlap. meaning both valves will actually be open at the same time for a short period. the lower the number the more the overlap. tubro and blower motors run better with less overlap, i think most lightning hiperf cams run around 112 degrees LSA while most N/A hi perf can run around 108 degrees LSA. More overlap will definitly make a car sound lopier, smell like gas, and get crappy mileage. but the more overlap the more power and sooner in the rpm range.

there is a lot more to this as well like, symmetrical cams, traditional split cams, and reverse split cams. also there is lobe profile but i wont go into great detail on those. most of what you will deal with when choosing a cam will be lift, duration, and lsa.

[03LightningRocks]

interestingly enough ive heard that the stage 3s will idle well enough for street use, mostly probably due to the supercharger grinds having somewhat less of an overlap the N/A cams.

If i remember right:
Lift is good for torque, especially on ported heads. Lobe lift is the actual lift on the cam lobe, to find valve lift multiply Lobe lift x rocker ratio = valve lift. the only problem is the way our valve train geometry is setup, the rocker ration isnt static its more rather dynamic. but if i remember right its somewhere averaged to about 1.8.

Duration is how long the valve stays open. this plays a big factor in how the cam idles and cruises. The bigger the number the lumpier and worse the idle will be. generally the duration counts as the valve being open at least .050 open, but not always. sometimes advertised numbers can be embellished.

Lobe seperation angle is how much the intake and exhaust valves overlap. meaning both valves will actually be open at the same time for a short period. the lower the number the more the overlap. tubro and blower motors run better with less overlap, i think most lightning hiperf cams run around 112 degrees LSA while most N/A hi perf can run around 108 degrees LSA. More overlap will definitly make a car sound lopier, smell like gas, and get crappy mileage. but the more overlap the more power and sooner in the rpm range.

there is a lot more to this as well like, symmetrical cams, traditional split cams, and reverse split cams. also there is lobe profile but i wont go into great detail on those. most of what you will deal with when choosing a cam will be lift, duration, and lsa.

Uhhh....I Agree...:cool: