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View Full Version : Can't sleep....What should I buy for the truck?



True Blue Aggie
06-14-2005, 12:04 AM
Drop kit is going to ship someday....so I figure that is already bought. Maybe I should order the QA1's? Front or rear, or both?

Does it make sense to only replace the torque converter, with stock tranny internals?

Did you ever figure out what it cost or how long it took to re-build the differential? I think I am going to make one more trip to the track before I confirm that the rear is shot...

Transmission Cooler? Maybe that and the converter can somewhat insure that the tranny stays in one piece over time?

Any ideas? Long term idea is to run 11.99 at Hallsville in December....

StormShadow
06-14-2005, 12:45 AM
Ported Fukin Blower. Find someone who has achieved your goal and copy them.

L8 APEX
06-14-2005, 08:43 AM
Long tubes, ported blower, qa1's, stall.

PoorSvtman
06-14-2005, 06:21 PM
whats wrong with your dif? Have you ever changed your fluid?

Mark #2
06-14-2005, 06:44 PM
Drop kit is going to ship someday....so I figure that is already bought. Maybe I should order the QA1's? Front or rear, or both?

Does it make sense to only replace the torque converter, with stock tranny internals?

Did you ever figure out what it cost or how long it took to re-build the differential? I think I am going to make one more trip to the track before I confirm that the rear is shot...

Transmission Cooler? Maybe that and the converter can somewhat insure that the tranny stays in one piece over time?

Any ideas? Long term idea is to run 11.99 at Hallsville in December....
Michael have you torque tested the rear? If not it is no big deal to do this test, I did mine and posted about 2 weeks ago.
Mark

True Blue Aggie
06-14-2005, 07:35 PM
Mark,

I figure I will get in the garage tonight and test it. I'm just keeping in the back of my mind the worst case scenario (having to replace parts in the rear). Same time I will check the fluid in the rear. Might end up buying a new diff cover to replace the existing, since it looks like hammered dog$hit....

Long Tubes? My understanding on this was that you needed long tubes when you started porting the blower and/or installing the kenne bell. Right now the plan is to get to 11's on the stock port and stock motor. Long tubes only loses a bunch of low end torque, or am I wrong in thinking that?

Mark #2
06-14-2005, 07:40 PM
Mark,

I figure I will get in the garage tonight and test it. I'm just keeping in the back of my mind the worst case scenario (having to replace parts in the rear). Same time I will check the fluid in the rear. Might end up buying a new diff cover to replace the existing, since it looks like hammered dog$hit....

Long Tubes? My understanding on this was that you needed long tubes when you started porting the blower and/or installing the kenne bell. Right now the plan is to get to 11's on the stock port and stock motor. Long tubes only loses a bunch of low end torque, or am I wrong in thinking that?

It's the area under the curve, long tubes I would pulley up 2 lbs to offset, are you at 6 now?
Mark

True Blue Aggie
06-14-2005, 08:03 PM
Yup...sittin on a 6 right now. Dont want to mess with an upper until I go ported or KB, either. Might end up of having to though to hit the 11's though....

L8 APEX
06-14-2005, 09:36 PM
Long tubes don't lose a nickel. Rob dynoed his truck before and after and gained 25hp 25tq all the way across. Posi rebuild is @600, replacement with Eaton unit is @$850.

True Blue Aggie
06-14-2005, 09:39 PM
What have you been up to lately? Dont think I have really read any posts from you in awhile....

oh yeah...and how much for the install on a converter.

Sorry for the random questions, but I have some time on my hands and I figured that I could finally sit down and plan out the next couple of mods on the truck.

L8 APEX
06-14-2005, 09:49 PM
COnverter install is 250 plus your choice of fluid.

02BOLT
06-14-2005, 10:22 PM
Long tubes don't lose a nickel. Rob dynoed his truck before and after and gained 25hp 25tq all the way across. Posi rebuild is @600, replacement with Eaton unit is @$850.

Actually it was 15 RWHP and RWTQ throughout the entire RPM band, which is still significant in my book. I could definitely feel a seat-of-the-pants difference. Note: This was with the KB pullied for 15 psi.(2lb lower/3" upper)

The Kook's LT's for these trucks have 1 5/8" primaries(as opposed to 1 3/4"), which help to further promote torque production. You should NOT lose ANY torque ANYWHERE in the power band. If anything, you should pick up low end and especially through the mid-range which is where these trucks really honk, when you consider that most shift out by 5400 RPM.

IMO, LT's are not really necessary with a 4lb lower or less, but with a 6lb lower and up, they will help, and will also reduce cylinder pressure. Last but not least, the sound absolutely fricking ROCKS!!!http://www.talonclub.com/forum/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif

03LightningRocks
06-14-2005, 10:49 PM
Here is what it took for me to get my stock block and stock blower in the 11's.

Every Bolt on known to exist...LOL. 6 lower...2 upper. Long Tubes also help with allowing good air flow through the engine. You need all the heat relief type mods also.

Another option....use the unsane Wayne method.....4 lower...75 shot of juice. Instant 11's.

True Blue Aggie
06-14-2005, 10:55 PM
Assuming that I can hit another 12.3x in the fall....that leaves me 3 tenths to pick up.

With the converter, typical drop is 2 tenths...12.1x
So I am missing a tenth. I could lose some weight (about 20 pounds)....that has to be worth at least a tenth right there....

L8 APEX
06-14-2005, 11:06 PM
Those last few tenths are of the exponential kind :hammer: .

03LightningRocks
06-14-2005, 11:27 PM
Those last few tenths are of the exponential kind :hammer: .


I hear that. It seems like the faster I get, the harder it get's to gain a tenth. I also have noticed the cost seems to be exponential...LOL.

Rocks