Opinions on Water Wetter and what antifreeze to use...

[Tex Arcana]

Just what is says: I figure I should be due for a radiator flush, meaning an intercooler flush as well. I've got the Water Wetter, the question is: what antifreeze is best for our applications?? I've seen the ubiquitous green, the red, and the gold, so now I'm cornfused.

Thanks for the info. :tu:

[Mark #2]

Just what is says: I figure I should be due for a radiator flush, meaning an intercooler flush as well. I've got the Water Wetter, the question is: what antifreeze is best for our applications?? I've seen the ubiquitous green, the red, and the gold, so now I'm cornfused.

Thanks for the info. :tu:

Use what your manual says.

[03LightningRocks]

Use what your manual says.

:tu:

[PUMP]

Just what is says: I figure I should be due for a radiator flush, meaning an intercooler flush as well. I've got the Water Wetter, the question is: what antifreeze is best for our applications?? I've seen the ubiquitous green, the red, and the gold, so now I'm cornfused.

Thanks for the info. :tu:
The gold, which is ethylene glycol, is recommended by Ford for gen-2s for corrosion protection reasons. The green is propylene glycol and reacts negatively with the aluminum alloys used in the Gen-2 heads, charge air cooler, etc.

[Tex Arcana]

The gold, which is ethylene glycol, is recommended by Ford for gen-2s for corrosion protection reasons. The green is propylene glycol and reacts negatively with the aluminum alloys used in the Gen-2 heads, charge air cooler, etc.

Use what your manual says.


So what does the manual say?? I konw, I know, I should look it up, but it's buried in a box somewhere in the garage, and I'm upstairs plotting my world domination--I mean, planning this flush. http://www.filegirl.com/images/0804/brainworld.JPG

Is the gold available at Ford or elsewhere?? And what percentages do y'all normally use?

[PUMP]

Manual says use the Gold. It is available from Ford Dealer, but you can use any ethylene Glycol base antifreeze. Mix at 50% water 50% glycol.
Attached is official word from Ford, in pdf format.

[Tex Arcana]

Hmmmm... they still say do'nt mix... so a pure-water flush is indicated (unless someone corrects me)... any hints on how to do a thorough flush?

[PUMP]

Hmmmm... they still say do'nt mix... so a pure-water flush is indicated (unless someone corrects me)... any hints on how to do a thorough flush?
The following is straight out of the maintenance DVD. It doesn't help much cause it says to use a "flushing machine". I would think that a standard back flush with water hose attached would do the trick. However this would require cutting the coolant hose and installing a "T" fitting

1. WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. when you are sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and remove the pressure relief cap. Once pressure is released, remove the pressure relief cap.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. NOTE: Refer to the cooling system flusher manufacturer's operating instructions for specific vehicle hook-up. Using an appropriate cooling system flusher, flush the intercooler cooling system.
· Use Premium Cooling System Flush VC-1 meeting Ford specification ESR-M14P7-A.
4. Fill the cooling system.

[03LightningRocks]

Hmmmm... they still say do'nt mix... so a pure-water flush is indicated (unless someone corrects me)... any hints on how to do a thorough flush?

If you have the green...use the green to refill it. Going to all this trouble to switch to the gold coolant is just plain stupid...;) .

No gain will be had by doing this at all.

Rocks:tu:

[BC Lightning]

just water and water weter in mine :cool:

[03LightningRocks]

just water and water weter in mine :cool:


LMAO.........where in the hell do some of you guys come up with this stuff????

[Tex Arcana]

LMAO.........where in the hell do some of you guys come up with this stuff????
Look at his location: "Somewhere"... might be the looney bin... :d

[03LightningRocks]

Hey Tex....while your here I'll mention something to you. Different year L's have different coolant. I don't know what year the gold crap started, but I think it was sometime in 2002. Look it up in YOUR owners manual and use what they recommend.

I have been lead to believe that the switch to gold has more to do with some kind of tree hugger crap than anything else. The crap also costs more to buy. At least it did the last time I bought it.

[BC Lightning]

LMAO.........where in the hell do some of you guys come up with this stuff????

water displaces heat better by itself better than the antifreeze, hint the name antifreeze, I'll put some closer to winter, but until then, my truck will stay cooler :cool:

[BC Lightning]

Look at his location: "Somewhere"... might be the looney bin... :d

believe me far from the looney bin :cool:

[BC Lightning]

LMAO.........where in the hell do some of you guys come up with this stuff????

when I'm racing now I use straight water in my intercooler box, since you can put ice directly into it, no since in putting water wetter in there if is is going to be drained in between races

[03LightningRocks]

when I'm racing now I use straight water in my intercooler box, since you can put ice directly into it, no since in putting water wetter in there if is is going to be drained in between races


That's good Michael...but try to keep up here, We be talkin engine coolant in dis thread....Dawg :cool: .

[BC Lightning]

That's good Michael...but try to keep up here, We be talkin engine coolant in dis thread....Dawg :cool: .

yes just water and water wetter in my radiator

[03LightningRocks]

Here is an idea for ya Michael. Go buy about three extra intercooler tanks. Fill them up about 3/4 with water and freeze them. When your leaving for the track throw them in a cooler to keep them frozen. Hell..they can even double as ice for your cold drinks. Now just before you make a pass....pull out one of your pre-frozen intercooler tanks and strap it in. Boom...instant cold water charge.:tu:

[03LightningRocks]

yes just water and water wetter in my radiator


In that case...I am going back to making fun of you.....:throw: .

[BC Lightning]

All I'm saying that two trucks, one with 50% water and 50% antifreeze, and the other with water, the one running only water will run cooler than the one with additive in it.

[03LightningRocks]

All I'm saying that two trucks, one with 50% water and 50% antifreeze, and the other with water, the one running only water will run cooler than the one with additive in it.


But won't you boil over before me? I think you will also freeze before I do ....but what the heck do I know????:D

[BC Lightning]

like I said earlier, when it gets closer to winter I will add the right antifreeze

and there will be more evaporiation, but then it calls for more water out of the hose toped off with some water wetter

[my2002lightning]

Rocks,

My late # '02 has the green-stuff, the '03s started with the gold/yellow coolant.



Different year L's have different coolant. I don't know what year the gold crap started, but I think it was sometime in 2002.

[03LightningRocks]

Rocks,

My late # '02 has the green-stuff, the '03s started with the gold/yellow coolant.


I was feeling pretty sure that the Gold was a more recent deal. Good info Ronald....thanks:tu: .

There ya go Tex...green it is.

[Tex Arcana]

I was feeling pretty sure that the Gold was a more recent deal. Good info Ronald....thanks:tu: .

There ya go Tex...green it is.
THanks, Rocks, you da man. :tu:

Pure water does transfer more heat, but antifreeze prevents boilover, because once it turns to steam, there ain't no going back. :(

BC, in this case, I think you're hurting yourself for two reasons: one, you're running tap water in your engine, and despite the water wetter, I think you're encouraging more corrosion, especially in the areas where the water is boiling inside the block (and rest assured IT IS!); two, by lowering your boiling point, you make internal boiling easier to happen, which can be fought only so long thru the radiator.

So, I'm sure Rocks is gonna ask: WHY THE **** DID YOU ASK THIS IF YOU KNEW THIS ALREADY!!?? :eek2:

Answer: Because I need the info on the green vs. gold thing. If the gold is significantly better, I'm going there. If the difference isn't significant, then green + Water Wetter. Also, I'm gonna tune the mix to give me just barely enough freeze protection, so I have a bit more heat capacity in the fluild, and still ahve corrosion and boilover protection. And I'll use FILTERED water, not tap! :D

[03LightningRocks]

Actually...distilled water is all that I would use....but again...what do I know?:D

[Tex Arcana]

Actually...distilled water is all that I would use....but again...what do I know?:D
Oh, not a damn thing, old man... get back on yer walker, and toddle over the the Luby's, it's time to eat... at... four.. THIIIIRRRTY... PM!! :d:rll:

[dboat]

after going through this whole thread, I am going to take a stab at the answer.. 1) I just go take it to one of those places that does it for you :evil , honestly, they will do a flush and fill and check it afterwards.. just go to a reputable place.
2) The water and water wetter thing is ok.. water boils at about 192 degrees F, then when you put it under pressure (i.e. the cap of the radiator) that will significantly raise the boiling point. Furthermore, you have an overflow basin that will catch any overflow and route it back in once your truck cools down. The water wetter changes the surface tension of the water which enhances its ability to pull heat away from the engine and water does do a better job of this than a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. You are normally running the truck at temps that are not "over the top" unless you have a problem, so you are not beyond the range for having water only.
3) Rocks is right that you want to use distilled water since it has had the minerals removed from it that cause corrosion.

I personally dont go the water only route because I dont want the hassle of changing the stuff in and out. I get my radiator flushed about once every two years. I do go to a place that has a pressure flush machine to make sure it is all done including the engine block.

Dana

[Tex Arcana]

after going through this whole thread, I am going to take a stab at the answer.. 1) I just go take it to one of those places that does it for you :evil , honestly, they will do a flush and fill and check it afterwards.. just go to a reputable place.
2) The water and water wetter thing is ok.. water boils at about 192 degrees F, then when you put it under pressure (i.e. the cap of the radiator) that will significantly raise the boiling point. Furthermore, you have an overflow basin that will catch any overflow and route it back in once your truck cools down. The water wetter changes the surface tension of the water which enhances its ability to pull heat away from the engine and water does do a better job of this than a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. You are normally running the truck at temps that are not "over the top" unless you have a problem, so you are not beyond the range for having water only.
3) Rocks is right that you want to use distilled water since it has had the minerals removed from it that cause corrosion.

I personally dont go the water only route because I dont want the hassle of changing the stuff in and out. I get my radiator flushed about once every two years. I do go to a place that has a pressure flush machine to make sure it is all done including the engine block.

Dana


Oh, Rocks was absolutely right--look at the time of my posts last nite, that's why I forgot that little tidbit. :bows The minerals in the water cause scale; the free oxygen content in the water contributes to the corrosion.

If you look at the chart on a bottle of antifreeze, you'll note that by adding a small percentage (say, 20%), you get a pretty good increase in boiling point, where it takes significantly more to lower the freezing point.

If I remember correctly, I don't think I've had mine done yet, and it's been over 4 years. I think I overdue.

[Tex Arcana]

Okay, I think that, if I'm gonna do this flush and refill, I want to do it right, meaning: a full backflush, with some form of cleaner; proper coolant (which brings us to the question of which coolant to use, again--does the gold outperform the green, or is it a push?); and Water Wetter.

So the next question is: What's the best way to backflush? Do the prestone kits work on our trucks, or is there some other preferred method? I've been looking for this info on NLOC and thata other board, and I haven't found anything--almost as if NO ONE has done a proper backflush at home.

And Dana, I remember your advice, and that might be my best bet yet, but I was going to see about saving some money and doing it myself, not to mention the fact it lets me do the intercooler circuit, and evaluate its condition.

So, thanks for y'alls help, it is greatly appreciated. :tu:

[Tex Arcana]

oh, this is teh funneh... F150Online.com/FordF150.net gives me this page (http://www.f150online.com/forums/link.cfm?link=http://www.fordf150.net/howto/changecoolant.php) when I try to follow a link to log on to finish reading an article about flushing a radiator--clicking "Login" (the ONLY "Login" link on the entire site, it seems), gets a page saying
Sorry

Sorry, the page you are looking for could not be found. Possible reasons for this are:

* The page has been renamed or moved
* The link you typed or followed is incorrect

:rll::rll::rll: what's real funny is I have a membership there, from a while back, but there seems to be NO place to log in?? "Under 'REDUNDANT', it says 'See: REDUNDANT'!!" :rll:

[Mark #2]

I never put acids in my system. Okay I have done it twice and both times had to replace the heater core 6 months later.

This is what I do:
Remove Radiator cap
Open Drain
Remove thermostat, replace housing.
Insert a garden hose in the Raditor cap opening, turn on water
Allow the water to overflow slightly, while the drain is still open.
Start engine and run for a few minutes until the drain is running clear.
Turn off water and allow to drain.
You can pull a lower block allen plug if you want(I have and haven't) to get all the water out.
Replace thermostat
Fill with 50/50 and WW

[QDRHRSE]

I have some friends, three brothers, that own a few really big radiator shops and they all recommend water wetter and/or any like product. They mix water wetter, 25% coolant, and 75% water. I'm not sure exactly how it works but the water wetter reduces the surface tension of the water. That's all I know. Where we live it gets hot as heck and I've seen water temps decrease by 15 degrees with the water wetter/25% coolant/75% water mix. It's for real. Highly recommended!

[Tex Arcana]

Well, to be completely anticlimatic, I went and cheked the service records, and found the last flush was last summer; so I looked in the reservoirs and saw this absolutely perfect-looking and -smelling green antifreeze. So I put 1/4 bottle in the IC reservoir, and the rest in the main tank.

THanks for all the advice, tho, I'll be keepin' it in mind. :tu: